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sayhuh?

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Posts posted by sayhuh?

  1. Are you still running the Kinetik too? If you are mixing batteries, you should run a battery isolator. This will prevent your batteries from using each other to maintain a charge, which may be happening. If the battery you have wasn't charged and you add it to the mi, then it will suck juice from the other battery and alt, etc etc. Or something along those lines...if I'm explaining it right. :peepwall:

  2. I have one. If you're willing to pay for shipping, then I'll ship. According to UPS, for my 18 it will be $125 shipped. I responded in your other thread. Fi 18 BTL Fully load and its a D2 with specs around 2000rms...my for sale ad has pics.

    I was about to link your thread to him ha

    :drinks:

    Sub is basically brand new. Never seen power. $425 shipped and that leaves you $75 for a tip to the person dropping the heavy bitch off. lol

  3. We put a set in a customers car today and they are stupid loud... awesome mid-bass output as well; I was actually pretty stunned by how much they were putting out.

    We have about 200 RMS rated per side on them and 200 RMS rated on a set of Selenium ST-350 tweeters; two bridged (8 ohms bridged per pair of channels) 4-channel full-range Class-D prototype amps (no ETA, no price, don't ask, *laughs*).

    :ehh:

    biting my tongue here...errr fingers? lol

    Interested in a set or two...or three.

  4. Some people were iffy since he was a new guy and seemed to have a post count quickly. I jumped and bought and so far am happy I did. I paid him on Saturday for two Fi fully loaded BTL 18s and about 75' of KK 1/o wire, fuse holders, fuses and connectors and received the stuff a few hours ago. The price was beyond unbeatable. The subs were shipped in the original boxes and (in my guess) are new and have never seen power.

    I have yet to hook power to them too, but my car is a little inop at the moment (for obvious reasons). Guy is a great guy to do business with and I am happy to say, I am the proud new owner of these:

    DSC_7938.jpg

    DSC_7937.jpg

    DSC_7933.jpg

    DSC_7931.jpg

    DSC_7929.jpg

    Now to get my power on them.

    DSC_7897.jpg

    Thank you Ian! :drinks:

  5. Xovers do not add to a freq. Lol

    An octave is the doubling or halving of a freq.

    Db per octave means this...

    Say a 18db per octave xover

    Set to 100hz lowpass..

    Means at 200hz it is 18db down from 100hz

    400hz would be 36db down

    Setting a sub or infra sonic to 30hz at 24db means that at 15hz its 24db down

    Setting a highpass filter at 3000hz at 24db means that at 1500hz its 24db down

    Hope that helps a little

    So, was I on the right track? This helps. I never really looked into it much, but never had to. It's more of interest to me now, but back in the mid to late 90s, I never did any of it on my own. (showing my age). Any where to read some good info on this?

  6. Its not a on off switch man.

    You guys should read on how a xover works and what db per octave means.

    So, basically (prob another stupid response lol), it doesn't 'cut' out, but makes the signal weaker of any freq played below 28hz. Signals may still be played below the subsonic setting of 28hz, but the crossover will keep the signal from being an amplified signal, keeping damage from occurring to said speaker? Low pass filter at 100hz, keeps amplified signal above that from being sent to speakers and HPF set 100hz allows for only amplified signal above 100hz to be sent. So, a crossover is used to separate amplified signal (or signal)to the appropriate speakers?

    If I am way off, can someone give me a place to read on this? I find one site, but it was meh and this is what I got from it lol.

    EDIT: Was typing this as you posted AudioF. LoL. This is why Steve and them are making this. I like the idea behind it, but want to know what I'm doing when I use it. The higher the octave, the more control?

  7. Not really understanding what it means to "calibrate crossover settings on an amp". A demo vid would be nice, in stupid-plain english for me please.

    I'm with you. Everyone is stating they want one, but what exactly does it do? I have an idea, but I'm still not 100%.

    It is to set your crossovers on your amplifier(s).

    Since the potentiometer used on the amplifiers for the crossover only give you an estimate of the frequency your setting your crossover at, this will allow you to set the crossover exactly instead of just turning it until you see 60hz, 80hz, 100hz, 120hz, or somewhere in between.

    edit:

    Meaning, if you want your subsonic filter to filter out everything 28hz and below, but the dial only goes from 10hz-50hz you would normally have to guess where 28hz is, and you are almost never correct (even if there would be a number 28 on your amplifier, the printing could be off enough to make a good difference).

    So for your example, you play a 28hz test tone and adjust the crossover(subsonic) knob on the amp until the "calibrated" light illuminates.

    Ok, so a noob question here. Can't you play a 28hz tone and just turn the subsonic until it stops producing sound and then turn back until sound comes back?

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