thehoe92

hence why I said everywhere legal. I read on the tint forum that California allows the back 5 windows (in my case) as much as you want as long as its not reflective and some on the front and 4 inches on the windshield. I only want the back 5 since thats where my equipment is. ouch! no thanks, haha I think I will try it myself. my dad is pretty skilled with lots of things and he says tinting is easy but if you don't want bubbles or anything get it done professionally. thats strange. I have honestly never seen it before besides on Steve's and like one other person that had custom everything.

Not even if you buy a package like the LT or LS will they have them filled in. After I posted I realized that maybe he did probably take them off and fill them in himself. But cool thanks for the tint help.

Does anyone know where Steve got these? Its the two things on the side of the window just above the tail light. On a normal Tahoe they have grooves in them. Also, where do I buy tint and have it installed. I'm thinking 5% everywhere legal. Thanks, Kasey

oh my bad for some reason I thought you were the one that posted this topic. whoops. but yes 12 10's will raise some hair :hairtrick:

I want to hear the 2 15's before you throw in the 12 10's. It should definately be able to do a hair trick. If you have that much cone area, you are movin a serious amount of air.

that was me. I half way feel responsible for this argument since I had to go off and say "yeah of course there is a module" but yeah back on topic since I have been out of the loop... I remember with the dual alts you tellin me it had to warm up and now it barely takes time; thats straight legit. keep on doing what you do Steve I appreciate the builds you do. Seriously without you I would not be into car audio at ALL. honestly my inspiration.

really? when I got the demo I asked you and you said you got one. maybe it was bumpin too hard and misheard you. sorry stephen.

missed it... he has definitely got one on there. I am not sure if there are pictures of it though. but he does have one.

you have a right to brag those are sick! good work man. I would buy some but I already bought some RF.

:censored: because I already crimped the wire you see on the battery terminal...

so what I have gathered is that it doesn't matter where on either side of the battery I put the fuse whether its between the amp and the battery or the battery and starter battery I just need to fuse it less than 18" away?

yeah the amp has a 150 amp fuse and then I have 2 100 amp fuses for the batteries.

really? I always thought it went between the starter battery and the secondary. starter battery---[fuse]-----------------------------[fuse]---secondary battery----amplifier you are saying I can go... starter battery---[fuse]-----------------------------secondary battery---[fuse]---amplifier

I just mounted the amp and battery this week and I was wondering if its possible to fuse between the amp and the secondary battery? I mounted the amp on some 2 inch long pvc pipe... I'll get a better picture tomorrow but the idea is that it is floating above the seat brace and there is 360 degrees of ventilation compared to if it was sitting on MDF. the hoe after a nice bath... and some more wiring... oh and thanks to Steve... My Rockford Fosgate Banner!

Since I have my dash disassembled I thought it would be a good time to paint the plastic insert from 2 DIN down to 1 DIN for my alpine head unit to make it look factory painted. I am pretty sure I read on here one day a guy doing it to either his silverado or tahoe and it looked spot on to Chevy colors. Can anyone help me find that thread or tell me what paint to use?

haha its just the light reflecting all the vibration. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif

he is to naive because if he heard it on the hoopty he wouldn't be saying that. theres no getting that knot out after that hair trick.

Yeah the more runs you have the more power! And yes you need to ground the alt. Its always safer running - back to the front instead of grounding to the chassis but both work. Don't forget to fuse though. Can't wait to see videos of it pounding

thanks guys I think I will do that.

thanks for all the answers. I know my amp is tons smaller than Steve's is but even under his seats there is bracing for the seats and somehow there is carpet over it? I got my amp and tried it today and it didn't fit so my dad has a crazy idea where he is going to float the amp. He is really good with installation so I am going to go with that until we realize we need to do it more like Steve. thanks for the advice on the battery but I would still like to see if I could get it to work up front. I just tried twisting them together and it didn't fit. Also there is some type of thread like material weaved in with the speaker wire. Will that damage anything or do I need to remove it. this is it. otherwise thanks for all your help. the hoe the BL and btw I wear size 12 shoes.

Hey fellas I have a 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe. I am just about to install my first sound system and have come across some questions. First off I would like to know in the very basic form of things, and I mean very basic, the wire you use for ground and the wire you use for power are the same thing with just different insulation. Am I correct? Second, I am thinking about mounting my RF t10001bd amp underneath the seat behind the driver seat. I saw that Steve did that but I am not sure how seeing as though there are braces underneath the seat leaving no room for an amp. So I was wondering how he did that? Third, I am building my own 9 cubic foot box, of course, and was thinking about texturing/painting it with the same stuff Steve did because I want that extra durability and it looks sick. Does anyone know where I could pick that stuff up at? and how much it costs? Fourth, for the longest time I was going to put my Kinetik HC1400 in the back by the sub box but just today I thought of putting it in the engine compartment so that a.) I don't have to run as much power wire and b.) everything is up front. I have not really ever seen this been done, I have always seen the secondary battery in the back. Could someone find me a place to buy a battery tray or something of that nature? and if you are wondering I found a spot closest to the windshield on the passenger side underneath a brace. Fifth, when I was wiring up the Bl last night I realized that I bought 10 gauge speaker wire and in order to have an OHM load of 1 I have to run speaker wire out of a terminal with speaker wire already in it and the terminal can only probably fit up to 8 gauge. How do I work around that? I don't really want to buy smaller wire either. Last but not least, I recently installed the Alpine CDA-9884 and could not find a dimmer wire but I could find the illumination. Is there somewhere else I need to look in order to find it? I would really like some way to dull the blaring light some times at night. Also before I start the car the radio will unit will power up and pop. What do I need to fix that? I know this is a lot of questions but I want to get the install right the first time so any help with these questions is appreciated

sub up, port back. thats how SUV's are done. I am pretty sure that my system is going to be intense though. I don't have any low-end on my car because I bought it used. It has the Bose system which I heard was a bitch when trying to upgrade...that is if you don't have a 3Sixty But today I was bumping some Jeezy and it was already shaking my mirrors a little. Just MIDS! anyways IMO I would go with 2 15's because from what I have read it will be just as loud as the 4 12's if you supply them with some adequate power and the bigger the cone area the lower the notes you can hit so it is SQ and SPL like the BL has been brought up to be. also I am a little confused when people say double baffle for the flush look. I know that when you double up the sub can sit and the wood comes to the gasket flush and it gives it more support but is the top piece of the box supposed to be baffle board and the rest MDF or is MDF the same as baffle board?

I was going with some dual 12" MTX from circuit city for the longest time before I really started getting into car audio. Then I was going to get one Kicker sub so I could still have half my third row, and then one day after watching steves videos for the millionth time I decided to go and look at Fi and there prices are damn good considering what you get. I have a 2003 Tahoe and I am putting the BL in a 9 cubic foot box tuned to 32Hz. If you could recommend what kind of 12 gauge that would be great because I got monster 10 gauge and both the positive and negative wire is bundled up into one so I have to split each wire and get out the separate wires before doing anything and its not easy considering I don't want to split the actual wire. And the reason I went with BL instead of BTL or Q is because BTL is way to intense for my budget considering I would be underpowering it and the Q just didn't meet my needs because it is the sound quality of Fi and I wanted both SQ and SPL. Also the reason I am using 1000 watts is because: A.) that is what my budget called for and B.) Rockford Fosgate amplifiers are underrated. I have been on multiple forums and talked to many people about it and they have had anywhere from a range of 1100 watts to 1500 watts in some cases so the BL will be getting sufficient power. If I may ask...how is your electrical system holding up with the Q. You have a high performance alt.? I have a Kinetik HC1400 coming sooner or later and a battery isolator.

Hey guys new to this forum but not to Steve's work and builds. I just got my first sub the other day; the Fi BL 18" with cooling and 2OHM DVC. Since it is my first build I don't have some of the simple experience that some of you might have. My first question is when I wire it down to a 1 Ohm load to go into my Rockford Fosgate t10001 bd amplifier how would I go about doing it? I have 10 gauge speaker wire and in order to wire it correctly you have to connect both negative terminals together and both positive terminals together. That isn't the problem. The problem is that 10 gauge is already fitting snug in the terminal before I try to run out the speaker wire to the amplifier. So overall my question is do I have to trim the wire down or what? I think Steve runs 8 if I am not mistaken and I don't know how he does it, but then again do any of us know how he accomplishes the things he does. Secondly, how do I mount the sub? I have taken the rubber gasket off and made wholes in the frame where they already are. But once I make the hole in my box how does it work? I can't of any more questions right now so any help with these questions would be great -Kasey