LoudBurp
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Posts posted by LoudBurp
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screw a viper get this.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDrzMGdYWZc
Just thought you could use a little humor. But, man that sucks. I know how you feel. I had my barn broken into a few years back and they took about 10 HU's, 5 or 6 amps and 4 subwoofers. Luckly I got it all back from a kid who was asked to store everything. He knew it was mine because he had been over before and bought some stuff from me. But he wouldn't tell me who actually stole everything. (even after I popped him in the jaw a few times) The real shitty thing about it was I eventually found out it was my cousin who broke in, but I didn't find that out till I got stationed out here in Hawaii.
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Banks makes a lot of cool stuff for your truck, check it out
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I was trying to think of how this is possible. did they solder onto the bearings and use those as speaker terminals? Thats the only way I could think of to make it possible, unless they spin the other way as well?
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you watch raywilliamjohnson don't you?
But yes, definatly badass. wish I had the extra money just to swap SRT motors into minivans just cuz I felt like it....
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I personally don't like gorilla glue because it expands when it drys, which gets everywhere. I use a product called PL Premium. I used it when I was a contractor and was amazed by what it could hold together. I lay about a 1/4-1/2" bead and when you screw the boards together, it squashes out. You can take a peice of scrap to scrape all the excess off and it seals your joints perfectly. If you are going to screw your box together, I personally use 1 5/8 coarse thread screws and I pilot drill every hole with a 3/32 drill bit. It does tend to split slightly, but if you go slow it won't.
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I never gotten any messages about the HU not arriving or working, it's been a FULL 3 months since the unit arrived, I already posted them tracking info - never thought about for sale thread..is it too late to add to the dispute?
It's never too late to add to the dispute. anything that you can give them is only going to help your side.
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I had a question and VIPmeetSPL asked it too. How are you gonna know who's facebook and youtube accounts are who's? are you going to just send them a message on that account?
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OP, like I said before look into local auctions (sherriff, public, and private). If your good with fixing cars look into wrecked vehicals (clean titles obviously bring more that salvage titles) You will find a range of many different cars, trucks, ect. I was able to make a good amount of cash when I was your age doing this. Yes, you might have to wake up extreamly early for an auction, but so what. Where do you think used car dealerships get their cars? Its a way to skip the middle-man and save a bunch of money.
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He owns a tire shop?
Must go through a set in 3 months.
I say a lot less. Ive gone threw mine in 3 months and it was no near that lol
WTF! I can't even imagine what that would be like. I threw a leveling kit on my truck and my camber is like 1.5* out, and I am hoping that my tires last till January when I get my tax refund back to buy my 36's
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that looks f@#$ing retarded!
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Im 16 or i would. I can probably get 2 for my truck. and i guess make payments to my parents.. Sadly i only make about 350 a month
Man, when I was 16 I had a 1992 Formula Firebird and a 1990 300zx. I got both these cars for $500 a piece. Look into local auctions and there are also companies that buy wrecked cars from insurance companies. I got the Firebird from a friend of my dad who tows cars for a living and the owner never paid the tow bill. The 300z came from a sherriff auction, it was involved in a drug bust and no body wanted to bid on it because it had 140K+ miles on it. I also used to go down to a place called "Best Wrecks" and buy wrecked cars and trucks for 30-50% of their retail value. Then I would buy all the parts to put them back together and sell them and make a killing.
Just some things I used to do to earn my own cash without having to be dependent off of my parents. I also never had to take out a loan or save up for a very long amount of time. Sure the first car I did took 6 months to completly fix, but after I sold it, I had all the cash I needed to immediatly buy the next car and the parts to fix it.
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Ported Clamshell.
Edit: Another helpful link. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/92615-ported-clamshell-helpbuild/
x2
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It says "you will need two woofers vs. one and the output will be the same."
This means that (2) of my 18's in this configuration will have the same output as (1) 18" is a standard configuration?
From my understanding, correct me if I'm wrong, Isobaric enclosures are used when you don't have a lot of room to work with. For instance, in a single cab pick up, if you wanted to have a 18" in there, you obviously wouldn't have enough room for the enclosure. So you build a box 1/2 the size and make it isobaric, as to get the equivilent output of 1 18 with full box volume.
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sub'd just waiting to be excepted
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Use a DMM. Or know what coil config your subs are and how they are wired. Parallel cuts impedance in half, series doubles impedance. 2 4 ohm SVC subs can be wired to 2 or 8 ohms.
Actually with series you add the resistances in the circuit and with parallel you add the reciprocal of the resistances and then take the reciprocal of the sum. It just so happens that typically you are using multiples of 2 of the same coil and coincidentally it doubles or is cut in half. You could actually wire a bunch of different coils together, in the same circuit, that have different impedances and it would work, not well but it would. Hypothetically if you had 4 coils (1 ohm,2 ohm,3 ohm, and 4 ohm) wired them all in parallel, you would have a total resistance of .48 ohm nominally. Now take the same coils and wire them in series, you would have 10 ohms. You would also think that each coils in these configurations would get equal power... THINK AGAIN. The power that each coil gets would be directly related to their impedance.
Why the fuck would someone out of the gate who's confused need to know that? That's what you call giving too much information. Confusing confused peoples not te way to go, it's called giving a simple retort to simplify a complicated situation. Not someone who wants to show they know something. Thanks for the useless information noone asked fore.
Actually I was correcting the reply somebody gave to that person because it was false information. And if your read the original post, he doesn't give enough info. Such as how many subs, what kind..... AND I wasn't trying to show people that I "know everything", because I don't and nor do I act like it. I was simply trying to pass on the information to other people on this forum who might have the same question or one that is related. I figured seeing that the person I quoted didn't give proper information, I would respectfully correct them. THAT IS THE PURPOSE OF A FORUM!!! To get a lot of people together by a central medium, so they can share information and debate . So I'm sorry, that me actually knowing what I was talking about might have offended you. Have a wonderful day
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Use a DMM. Or know what coil config your subs are and how they are wired. Parallel cuts impedance in half, series doubles impedance. 2 4 ohm SVC subs can be wired to 2 or 8 ohms.
Actually with series you add the resistances in the circuit and with parallel you add the reciprocal of the resistances and then take the reciprocal of the sum. It just so happens that typically you are using multiples of 2 of the same coil and coincidentally it doubles or is cut in half. You could actually wire a bunch of different coils together, in the same circuit, that have different impedances and it would work, not well but it would. Hypothetically if you had 4 coils (1 ohm,2 ohm,3 ohm, and 4 ohm) wired them all in parallel, you would have a total resistance of .48 ohm nominally. Now take the same coils and wire them in series, you would have 10 ohms. You would also think that each coils in these configurations would get equal power... THINK AGAIN. The power that each coil gets would be directly related to their impedance.
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Also, there is alot more than just RMS to look at. Some companies rate different than others. My Interfire 12 I have right now is "1000W RMS", but with a true clamped 850W it bottoms out and heats up really badly. Whereas companies like Sundown, DC, AA, ect... might have a 600W RMS rating they can handle more all the time.
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Your right, you should go by RMS. RMS stands for "root mean square" which in a nutshell means average. Your wall outlet says 110 volts, when you hook up a DDM to an outlet it also says 110V. This is because it measures RMS voltage. If you were to actually analyze the wave format, it would vary from 120-110 constantly. "MAX" is just like you said, a marketing scam. You would never run a sub at it "max" wattage on a day-to-day basis, you would be buying a new sub once a week.
So, anyway RMS is the standard. The only time you would go off of using max is incase your preparing for a surge. Such as fusing, you use your max current that your wire can handle w/o melting.
Hope this helped and next time you see this guy try to explain it to him.
he says if you had a good enough subwoofer, you would be able to run it as a daily driver at 1/2 to full volume every day with no problems.
OK, well A) I have been doing car audio stuff since I was about 14 (and at that age I had the same ideas that your brother had) and B ) my interest in car audio led me to join the military, which I am a Radio Frequency Transmission Systems Technician and I have my Electronic Systems technology degree. So, if he wants to keep going off of MAX let him but if you want to build better and more reliable systems than your brother use RMS
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Your right, you should go by RMS. RMS stands for "root mean square" which in a nutshell means average. Your wall outlet says 110 volts, when you hook up a DDM to an outlet it also says 110V. This is because it measures RMS voltage. If you were to actually analyze the wave format, it would vary from 120-110 constantly. "MAX" is just like you said, a marketing scam. You would never run a sub at it "max" wattage on a day-to-day basis, you would be buying a new sub once a week.
So, anyway RMS is the standard. The only time you would go off of using max is incase your preparing for a surge. Such as fusing, you use your max current that your wire can handle w/o melting.
Hope this helped and next time you see this guy try to explain it to him.
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read all 3 pages of this thread and look at the pics, then tell me whether you want this crap.....
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/115156-dynamat-vs-fatmat/
lmao
you beat me to it lol,i should add pics of my car to the collection
Do it, I think people really need to know what they are buying. Not trying to put any company down, but when everybody who uses your product says it sucks, you might want to reevaluate that product......
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This guy was only national champ, Bin Laden had the world after his ass
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read all 3 pages of this thread and look at the pics, then tell me whether you want this crap.....
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/115156-dynamat-vs-fatmat/
:yahoo: 
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Crusin' The Coast - MS Gulf Coast
in Car Shows
Posted
I would love to go again this year, but I am a couple thousand miles away
Last year was insane! If anybody on this forum has the time free, I would recommend you go!