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kickass audio

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Posts posted by kickass audio

  1. Nothing happened. No fan movement. But thank you for the help. idrc, this comp suckssssssss. I was going to fix it for someone else to use. Oh well.

    Whats the specs of it? i know its a old machine just judging by the pics i see of that model online. but if you want it as a basic web machine just get the powersupply. if anything use tigerdirect.com or someplace like that. they sell damn good computer parts really cheap. if i lived by you id put it in for you, i know that kind of stuff like a pro.

  2. There's no beep anywhere, and I'll check the error code right now.

    EDIT: I see the ABCD, and none of them are lightning up.

    Yupp, judging by that, im 99% sure that your motherboard is fried. Try this:

    1.) Disconnect your power cable from the desktop

    2.) With the power cable disconnected press and hold the power button for about 15 seconds straight (this will discharge any remaining power within the tower)

    3.) after 15 seconds, connect the power cable back to the power supply and try to power back on

    4.) if anything id recommend that you have the case off just to see if the fan will even move a little bit. if the fan starts to move but then stops it is a power problem and the computers power supply is probably shorting out and is turning off to prevent the computer from catching on fire

    5.) I had this problem with my old dell dimension 8200, check the motherboard screws (dont starts messing with them if you have no clue what you are doing as you can really mess things up) and see if when you loosen them slightly if it turns on

    My old dimension 8200 had a motherboard warping affect where it would cause the computer to turn off randomly because one screw was tightened too much.

    6.) Just to be safe, i would HIGHLY recommend that you disconnect your hard drive when doing ALL of this work!!!! If anything, take the hard drive right out of the machine because where its at now, the data can be recovered on it, if you happen to make a mistake and send a jolt of power across the wrong circuit, you can fry your hard drive and make the content on it unusable. Always back up your files and when this happens i ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS disconnect the hard drive as a safety measure.

    Best of luck, reply back with your results.

  3. I press the power button, and the 3 lights on the keyboard flash. if I hold in the power button, they keep flashing like a strobe light. That's ALL that happens. The fans don't spin or anything. I took the side off, and there's a green LED that flashes as long as the power cord is plugged in. If I remove the power, it slowly stops blinking then stops..

    The light beside the power button doesn't do anything either.

    I'm guessing the motherboard is fried from a bad capacitor? idk

    im a big computer tech and i know dells inside and out. first.. do you hear any beeping when trying to turn it on? or how about this.. on the back of the tower there will be 4 led's right where the connections are for the motherboard. they usually are labeled either 1,2,3,4 or a,b,c,d. look to see what the colors of them are when trying to start the computer up. if any of them are amber tell me the order of them.

    Such as 1= green 2=green 3=green 4=amber

    Those lights help immensely when t/s the dell motherboards and their components.

    Judging by the way you described it, i think your power supply is bad. which if this is true just go to compusa or a nearby computer store and buy a power supply for like $40.

  4. thats cool. thanks for the reply!! Now the hard part.... finding a place around me that has 2/0. i got my 1/0 for free since the jackass dealer near my house sold me 4 gauge and said it would handle the power i was drawing (and yes at the time i had no clue like i do now about car audio) but it burned the wire at my fuse and burnt the fuse block and didnt break the fuse at all!! but oh well. i was a bitch and got 1/0 for free. 8) cant go wrong with a freebie.

    But hey, since im looking at buying the audioque aq3500.d.1. do you think this is a good amp? i have a precision power amp (as stated earlier in the post) and that amp kicks ass but its not giving my woofer the full power it can take.

    bump for anybody who owns a audioque aq3500.d.1 amp. Im looking for a review or any comments about their products. i dont want to buy anything crap for my car.

  5. yku tli r;o e'p w y,k t.l r/; e 'p , . /

    youre in luck. im a computer tech for m&t bank. have you tried an external keyboard?? how about using an onscreen keyboard. if either of these options work, then it will tell you whether your keyboard shorted out, or if someone screwed with the programming of your keys. ppl are smartasses out there and i had a few calls from the bank where some kid would set the keyboards to a European keyboard layout and really screw up things.

    message me on here for a faster reply. best of luck!!

  6. use 2 0 gauge from the front battery to to the rear battery, same for grounds isnt necessary as you can take 2 0 gauge from the battery and ground it on the frame. then wire 2 0 gauge + and - to amp accordingly. seems like overkill probably but thats what it takes.

    thats cool. thanks for the reply!! Now the hard part.... finding a place around me that has 2/0. i got my 1/0 for free since the jackass dealer near my house sold me 4 gauge and said it would handle the power i was drawing (and yes at the time i had no clue like i do now about car audio) but it burned the wire at my fuse and burnt the fuse block and didnt break the fuse at all!! but oh well. i was a bitch and got 1/0 for free. 8) cant go wrong with a freebie.

    But hey, since im looking at buying the audioque aq3500.d.1. do you think this is a good amp? i have a precision power amp (as stated earlier in the post) and that amp kicks ass but its not giving my woofer the full power it can take.

  7. But heres another question. since the aq 3500 takes 2 0 gauge pos and neg terminal connections, would it be ok to just take 2 short runs of 0 gauge from the d3100 im putting in my trunk or should i use 2 0 gauge from my s3400 (in my hood) to my future d3100 (in the trunk). i only have 1 0 gauge positive running from my engine bays battery to the cap in my trunk. and from the cap i have a little 3 foot ground cable to my chassis.

    bump for a hope of getting a response about whether i should run 0 gauge from front to back as a ground (battery to battery)

  8. lmao at all of the beggers on here. I have been doing car audio since i was 14 years old and im now 31, and I have never once asked for a hand out. Do the work.... and if your good enough people will start hooking you up with product, but until you do the work and prove that you can rep the product people wont give you shit, espically begging for it.

    god this shit pisses me off

    i more of the less meant to get a decal or something. im gonna be buying some when i get my truck. my car i have is gonna be junked out soon so im not going to waste my money putting it on something that im getting rid of.

  9. Thanks for the replies so far.

    As for my electrical, i run it all on 0 gauge from front to back and the amp is retarded and has 4 gauge for a input (stupid as hell i know) so im using my old shitty 1 farad cap as a distro block.

    The battery i have a xs power s3400, and im buying a d3100 for in the trunk to replace the cap and to get more power. and im going to buy a 300 amp alt from excessiveamperage.com for $480. it idles at 200 amps so i think that would be decent enough. id get a dual alt but my car cant handle that since its a 98 olds 88 with a 3.8 liter v-6 engine.

    So again, right now, im running a s-3400, with a 1 farad cap (that drains in a milli-second), 0 gauge throughout, and the stock 140 amp alt (for now)

    But heres another question. since the aq 3500 takes 2 0 gauge pos and neg terminal connections, would it be ok to just take 2 short runs of 0 gauge from the d3100 im putting in my trunk or should i use 2 0 gauge from my s3400 (in my hood) to my future d3100 (in the trunk). i only have 1 0 gauge positive running from my engine bays battery to the cap in my trunk. and from the cap i have a little 3 foot ground cable to my chassis.

  10. 1400 watts to a Solo X? lolwut?

    Get an AQ3500D and run it at 2 ohms. It'll push 2600 watts at 2 ohms, so you'll be all set with that Solo X. It'll pound and sound good doing it.

    EDIT: Also, if you're running this on a stock electrical system, please upgrade your alt to at LEAST a 270-amp (300 amp preferably) and get a few large batteries (2 or 3 should do it). You'll ruin this amplifier on a stock electrical system and I'd hate to see that go to waste. It takes power to make power.

    Thanks for the replies so far.

    As for my electrical, i run it all on 0 gauge from front to back and the amp is retarded and has 4 gauge for a input (stupid as hell i know) so im using my old shitty 1 farad cap as a distro block.

    The battery i have a xs power s3400, and im buying a d3100 for in the trunk to replace the cap and to get more power. and im going to buy a 300 amp alt from excessiveamperage.com for $480. it idles at 200 amps so i think that would be decent enough. id get a dual alt but my car cant handle that since its a 98 olds 88 with a 3.8 liter v-6 engine.

    So again, right now, im running a s-3400, with a 1 farad cap (that drains in a milli-second), 0 gauge throughout, and the stock 140 amp alt (for now)

  11. Hello all,

    I currently own one Precision Power pc2350 amplifier and one 4 Ohm Kicker Solox (12"). My amplifier is a 2 channel amp (go ahead and trash talk, everybody does) and it pushes out 1400 watts rms on a 4-8 ohm bridge. Since my woofer has dual 4 ohm coils, i wired them up in series to make a 8 ohm load at the amp so that way i wont screw up the bridge of the amp.

    My question is...

    I was thinking of buying another one of these amps since i love how this amp performs, but is it possible to take the same 2 model amps and use them to power 1 woofer??

    And another question...

    If you dont suggest that i run a 2 channel amp, what monoblock amp would you suggest i get so that i can run at 2500 watts rms (the woofers power handling) and have it on at the least a 2 ohm load?

    Hope to see everybodys replies on this.

    Thanks in advance!!!

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