kickass audio

I know Steve had some new ones sent to him from XS Power, not sure if they were free or if he paid for them though. Call XS Power and ask about what can be done for the labels.

vcm wont work on a ford btw But he said it's a 2014 camaro which isn't a ford, which is why I said the VCM.

like everyone is saying it's probably your PCM doing it. If your car has it did you make sure that any power wire you ran between the alternator and battery was inserted in the battery current sensor? If you have another wire running from the alt to battery and it isn't in the sensor (if your car has one) it can cause erratic voltages since it can't sense what amperage is being drawn to kick the alternator on. If your car doesn't have an current sensor on the OEM battery leads then your PCM is controlling the voltage and the only workaround is to either try and see if turning on your headlights manually will trick the alternator to be forced into a 14v output otherwise you can get something like an Mechman voltage boost module or even the xs power VCM but the problem with that is it would get your battery light to come on in the dash as the car won't sense the alternator to see what it is working at and think it is dead when it is actually working.

Congratulations Cubs!!!

It's probably shutting off the alternator for high speed. My truck is a gmc envoy and doesnt have the stupid hall sensor on it like newer vehicles have and if I rev the engine above 4200rpm the alternator stops charging and I go down to resting voltage at the batteries. for my truck's size of the crank pulley and the alternator pulley I would be spinning the alternator at some insane speed and that is way too fast for the alternator and will make it break at that speed. The way around that is either not to rev the engine that high or to put a larger pulley on the alternator that will slow down the rotation speed of the alternator and as a result also decrease the power output of the alternator at idle.

There are known problems with the ignition switches on our platform. That could be your problem where it is making contact just enough to have current draw that is killing your battery but not enough contact to keep components on. If anything I would really go and track it down through your truck. You can try to disconnect the power wire for the rear fuse box and see what the current draw is with only the front fusebox connected. Then leave it sit. The rear fusebox isn't for anything that particular. The front one under the hood is for your engine/tranny, etc. I only had one battery fail from them in my envoy and it was the s3400 I had under the hood. The terminals out of nowhere started to leak and I didn't touch them or even get close to torquing the terminal bolt down to the limit from the factory. It was 3 years old and past warranty so I said screw it and bought a d3400 for its place and it works fine.

Get well soon Tony! We all need a genius like you around lol. But in all seriousness, here's to a speedy recovery

Yeah since you cant use the ibar are the OEM wires long enough to reach the top of the battery? If so just get some ring terminals on there and bolt it up. If not then I would suggest to take the stock starter, ground, alt, etc wires and upgrade them with your own wire and ring terminals. Its not that hard to do as long as your wires aren't buried in the engine.

No you cannot put it on the d3100. The ibar you can put on the 3100 is the 556 and 554. Are you trying to stuff a 3100 in your engine?

I wouldn't advise you to use -5db then for your xover setup. -5 will get more output than 0 and you don't want that for the tweeters. If you can bi-amp I would keep the tweeters at 0db and the mids at -5 because the mid's will take more power and the tweeter's won't like that at all.

I would just use -5db. I have it so my mids and high are at -5db and the sub is at -10 and have had no problems. Now are you running active or passive crossovers? The only time I had a problem is my tweeters did not like the extra power and I blew one tweeter up when it was on a passive x-over setup, I fixed it by going full active and turning down the output level of the tweeter stage so it wouldn't get as much power and has run perfect for me ever since. I have a pair of RF t1652-s mid's going to a SAX-200.4 and they sound great and it is wayy past its rated RMS power but they don't get warm, smelly or sound like crap. Before the 200.4 I had it on a DC 175.4. I have the tweeters with a pair of RF t-1 tweets that came with the t1652's and have another pair that are the AA tweeters that come with the carbon mid's. They sound great but as I said I had to turn down the volume on the tweeter stage because they would get all crackly and sound like shit from the power being too much for them to handle.

Last I talked to Meade about this he said he would do it but make people sign a disclaimer that if their amp blew up he would not be responsible for it. I had sent him my old PPI amp and he dyno'd it. It didn't get on video sadly but I printed him out a test sheet to fill out with the clamp results. He was nice enough to do it on 12 and 14v though it didn't make too big of a difference with it being so strictly regulated.

To answer the previous question on what its made out of, it is just rubber where one side is flat, the other has the rippled design. I never installed mine though as I didn't have much desire for it but I picked up 2 for free when I ordered my trunk pack of damp pro since at the time they had a promo to spend so much and get a set of them free. They, well at least mine didn't come with any adhesive so you need to glue them to the door yourself. I don't see much point in it honestly as it will be useless when your window is down all the way the pads are blocked by the window.

The only problem with that is the inductance of the voice coil. Voice coils present a reactive load to the output of an audio amplifier. This is actually the premise of the design of the AudioGraph Power Cube, which is an instrumental tool in the design of an amplifier. There really just isn't any way that one can "clamp" and get meaningful results. Again, this "baseline" was established incorrectly. There's just no way around this. The car audio industry is currently inundated with non-truths. Isn't it about time that we gather a collective that will challenge these fallacies with fact? Ohh, I didn't know how it would work if it was out of the motor. Thats just some random thought I had. I still would prefer to get the honeybadger's findings on my amp from a trusted company such as d'amore.

I hope not to make this into a big pissing match but Tony's (haha, thats funny to say it since both of you are Tony) What if you used a voice coil out in the open as your load on an amp? Now I have never done this to test it but would your power factor be closer to 1.0? The reason I ask this is that I know your resistance changes with a voice coil being exposed to magnetism when it is in the gap but if its just sitting out and away from a magnetic source would it make a difference? I know the ad-1 is still the ONLY way to get it right compared to "clamping" because the chances of you getting your clamp and multimeter to read at the same time without any differences in the signal being read are impossible with the different refresh rates, differences in phases being read, etc. I just more of the less wonder about that power factor if you use a voice coil which is in essence a resistor with how its wired up and being in the open if it would affect your results.