Jump to content

kickass audio

Members
  • Posts

    1975
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About kickass audio

18+  All Access!
  • Birthday 07/28/1991

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tonawanda, New York

Recent Profile Visitors

12182 profile views

kickass audio's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

  • Week One Done Rare
  • One Month Later Rare
  • One Year In Rare

Recent Badges

65

Reputation

  1. I know Steve had some new ones sent to him from XS Power, not sure if they were free or if he paid for them though. Call XS Power and ask about what can be done for the labels.
  2. vcm wont work on a ford btw But he said it's a 2014 camaro which isn't a ford, which is why I said the VCM.
  3. like everyone is saying it's probably your PCM doing it. If your car has it did you make sure that any power wire you ran between the alternator and battery was inserted in the battery current sensor? If you have another wire running from the alt to battery and it isn't in the sensor (if your car has one) it can cause erratic voltages since it can't sense what amperage is being drawn to kick the alternator on. If your car doesn't have an current sensor on the OEM battery leads then your PCM is controlling the voltage and the only workaround is to either try and see if turning on your headlights manually will trick the alternator to be forced into a 14v output otherwise you can get something like an Mechman voltage boost module or even the xs power VCM but the problem with that is it would get your battery light to come on in the dash as the car won't sense the alternator to see what it is working at and think it is dead when it is actually working.
  4. It's probably shutting off the alternator for high speed. My truck is a gmc envoy and doesnt have the stupid hall sensor on it like newer vehicles have and if I rev the engine above 4200rpm the alternator stops charging and I go down to resting voltage at the batteries. for my truck's size of the crank pulley and the alternator pulley I would be spinning the alternator at some insane speed and that is way too fast for the alternator and will make it break at that speed. The way around that is either not to rev the engine that high or to put a larger pulley on the alternator that will slow down the rotation speed of the alternator and as a result also decrease the power output of the alternator at idle.
  5. There are known problems with the ignition switches on our platform. That could be your problem where it is making contact just enough to have current draw that is killing your battery but not enough contact to keep components on. If anything I would really go and track it down through your truck. You can try to disconnect the power wire for the rear fuse box and see what the current draw is with only the front fusebox connected. Then leave it sit. The rear fusebox isn't for anything that particular. The front one under the hood is for your engine/tranny, etc. I only had one battery fail from them in my envoy and it was the s3400 I had under the hood. The terminals out of nowhere started to leak and I didn't touch them or even get close to torquing the terminal bolt down to the limit from the factory. It was 3 years old and past warranty so I said screw it and bought a d3400 for its place and it works fine.
  6. Get well soon Tony! We all need a genius like you around lol. But in all seriousness, here's to a speedy recovery
  7. Yeah since you cant use the ibar are the OEM wires long enough to reach the top of the battery? If so just get some ring terminals on there and bolt it up. If not then I would suggest to take the stock starter, ground, alt, etc wires and upgrade them with your own wire and ring terminals. Its not that hard to do as long as your wires aren't buried in the engine.
  8. No you cannot put it on the d3100. The ibar you can put on the 3100 is the 556 and 554. Are you trying to stuff a 3100 in your engine?
  9. damn homes calm down on posting so damn much. no need to raise the post count. Yeah it works, idr the model as it has been sitting and I meant that you are better off tuning the 3sixty on a computer. Its way easier to manage than on a tiny ass screen like on a PDA.
  10. its not a phone its just a old windows mobile palm pilot. It is far easier to use it on the computer though tbh. I would let it go for $50 shipped. I just gotta dig around the house and find where I put it. lol.
  11. It will only work in windows. The drivers needed for the 3sixty to operate will not function on anything else but windows. I have mine working in windows 7 and windows 8 without any issues but you cannot use your ipod, ipad, android, etc to control it. It will find the 3sixty but when it connects you are stuck at a brick wall as the drivers are not there for it to work nor is the software. I have an old palm that I got when I purchased my 3sixty.2 if you are interested.
  12. I wouldn't advise you to use -5db then for your xover setup. -5 will get more output than 0 and you don't want that for the tweeters. If you can bi-amp I would keep the tweeters at 0db and the mids at -5 because the mid's will take more power and the tweeter's won't like that at all.
  13. I would just use -5db. I have it so my mids and high are at -5db and the sub is at -10 and have had no problems. Now are you running active or passive crossovers? The only time I had a problem is my tweeters did not like the extra power and I blew one tweeter up when it was on a passive x-over setup, I fixed it by going full active and turning down the output level of the tweeter stage so it wouldn't get as much power and has run perfect for me ever since. I have a pair of RF t1652-s mid's going to a SAX-200.4 and they sound great and it is wayy past its rated RMS power but they don't get warm, smelly or sound like crap. Before the 200.4 I had it on a DC 175.4. I have the tweeters with a pair of RF t-1 tweets that came with the t1652's and have another pair that are the AA tweeters that come with the carbon mid's. They sound great but as I said I had to turn down the volume on the tweeter stage because they would get all crackly and sound like shit from the power being too much for them to handle.
  14. Last I talked to Meade about this he said he would do it but make people sign a disclaimer that if their amp blew up he would not be responsible for it. I had sent him my old PPI amp and he dyno'd it. It didn't get on video sadly but I printed him out a test sheet to fill out with the clamp results. He was nice enough to do it on 12 and 14v though it didn't make too big of a difference with it being so strictly regulated.
×
×
  • Create New...