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kickass audio

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Everything posted by kickass audio

  1. I am late to the party but I have a 2023 Silverado RST with the 5.3l and it does not have the tensioner pulley and I never noticed it. I was planning to re-use my 370A alternator from my 2014 silverado 1500 5.3l but I guess I can't now. Thanks GM for the shaft haha. What is this adapter kit you speak of?
  2. I know Steve had some new ones sent to him from XS Power, not sure if they were free or if he paid for them though. Call XS Power and ask about what can be done for the labels.
  3. vcm wont work on a ford btw But he said it's a 2014 camaro which isn't a ford, which is why I said the VCM.
  4. like everyone is saying it's probably your PCM doing it. If your car has it did you make sure that any power wire you ran between the alternator and battery was inserted in the battery current sensor? If you have another wire running from the alt to battery and it isn't in the sensor (if your car has one) it can cause erratic voltages since it can't sense what amperage is being drawn to kick the alternator on. If your car doesn't have an current sensor on the OEM battery leads then your PCM is controlling the voltage and the only workaround is to either try and see if turning on your headlights manually will trick the alternator to be forced into a 14v output otherwise you can get something like an Mechman voltage boost module or even the xs power VCM but the problem with that is it would get your battery light to come on in the dash as the car won't sense the alternator to see what it is working at and think it is dead when it is actually working.
  5. It's probably shutting off the alternator for high speed. My truck is a gmc envoy and doesnt have the stupid hall sensor on it like newer vehicles have and if I rev the engine above 4200rpm the alternator stops charging and I go down to resting voltage at the batteries. for my truck's size of the crank pulley and the alternator pulley I would be spinning the alternator at some insane speed and that is way too fast for the alternator and will make it break at that speed. The way around that is either not to rev the engine that high or to put a larger pulley on the alternator that will slow down the rotation speed of the alternator and as a result also decrease the power output of the alternator at idle.
  6. There are known problems with the ignition switches on our platform. That could be your problem where it is making contact just enough to have current draw that is killing your battery but not enough contact to keep components on. If anything I would really go and track it down through your truck. You can try to disconnect the power wire for the rear fuse box and see what the current draw is with only the front fusebox connected. Then leave it sit. The rear fusebox isn't for anything that particular. The front one under the hood is for your engine/tranny, etc. I only had one battery fail from them in my envoy and it was the s3400 I had under the hood. The terminals out of nowhere started to leak and I didn't touch them or even get close to torquing the terminal bolt down to the limit from the factory. It was 3 years old and past warranty so I said screw it and bought a d3400 for its place and it works fine.
  7. Get well soon Tony! We all need a genius like you around lol. But in all seriousness, here's to a speedy recovery
  8. Yeah since you cant use the ibar are the OEM wires long enough to reach the top of the battery? If so just get some ring terminals on there and bolt it up. If not then I would suggest to take the stock starter, ground, alt, etc wires and upgrade them with your own wire and ring terminals. Its not that hard to do as long as your wires aren't buried in the engine.
  9. No you cannot put it on the d3100. The ibar you can put on the 3100 is the 556 and 554. Are you trying to stuff a 3100 in your engine?
  10. I wouldn't advise you to use -5db then for your xover setup. -5 will get more output than 0 and you don't want that for the tweeters. If you can bi-amp I would keep the tweeters at 0db and the mids at -5 because the mid's will take more power and the tweeter's won't like that at all.
  11. I would just use -5db. I have it so my mids and high are at -5db and the sub is at -10 and have had no problems. Now are you running active or passive crossovers? The only time I had a problem is my tweeters did not like the extra power and I blew one tweeter up when it was on a passive x-over setup, I fixed it by going full active and turning down the output level of the tweeter stage so it wouldn't get as much power and has run perfect for me ever since. I have a pair of RF t1652-s mid's going to a SAX-200.4 and they sound great and it is wayy past its rated RMS power but they don't get warm, smelly or sound like crap. Before the 200.4 I had it on a DC 175.4. I have the tweeters with a pair of RF t-1 tweets that came with the t1652's and have another pair that are the AA tweeters that come with the carbon mid's. They sound great but as I said I had to turn down the volume on the tweeter stage because they would get all crackly and sound like shit from the power being too much for them to handle.
  12. Last I talked to Meade about this he said he would do it but make people sign a disclaimer that if their amp blew up he would not be responsible for it. I had sent him my old PPI amp and he dyno'd it. It didn't get on video sadly but I printed him out a test sheet to fill out with the clamp results. He was nice enough to do it on 12 and 14v though it didn't make too big of a difference with it being so strictly regulated.
  13. To answer the previous question on what its made out of, it is just rubber where one side is flat, the other has the rippled design. I never installed mine though as I didn't have much desire for it but I picked up 2 for free when I ordered my trunk pack of damp pro since at the time they had a promo to spend so much and get a set of them free. They, well at least mine didn't come with any adhesive so you need to glue them to the door yourself. I don't see much point in it honestly as it will be useless when your window is down all the way the pads are blocked by the window.
  14. The only problem with that is the inductance of the voice coil. Voice coils present a reactive load to the output of an audio amplifier. This is actually the premise of the design of the AudioGraph Power Cube, which is an instrumental tool in the design of an amplifier. There really just isn't any way that one can "clamp" and get meaningful results. Again, this "baseline" was established incorrectly. There's just no way around this. The car audio industry is currently inundated with non-truths. Isn't it about time that we gather a collective that will challenge these fallacies with fact? Ohh, I didn't know how it would work if it was out of the motor. Thats just some random thought I had. I still would prefer to get the honeybadger's findings on my amp from a trusted company such as d'amore.
  15. I hope not to make this into a big pissing match but Tony's (haha, thats funny to say it since both of you are Tony) What if you used a voice coil out in the open as your load on an amp? Now I have never done this to test it but would your power factor be closer to 1.0? The reason I ask this is that I know your resistance changes with a voice coil being exposed to magnetism when it is in the gap but if its just sitting out and away from a magnetic source would it make a difference? I know the ad-1 is still the ONLY way to get it right compared to "clamping" because the chances of you getting your clamp and multimeter to read at the same time without any differences in the signal being read are impossible with the different refresh rates, differences in phases being read, etc. I just more of the less wonder about that power factor if you use a voice coil which is in essence a resistor with how its wired up and being in the open if it would affect your results.
  16. I think you can leave my thread right now and get the sand out of your vagina with why I bought what I bought. Did you spend any money on it?? NO! Did I ask anyones input on what I bought? NO! So go troll on someone elses thread as I don't care if you have one that is alike or not, its bought and I am happy with it and thats all there is to it.
  17. Well this is by far a strange issue I am facing with my 175.4. Basically my amp will be at full volume and my sub will be at 1/4 of where I can set the knob for the remote control and the 175.4 will have a solid green power light and the protect light will come on for a second, the music will stop coming out of the mids and highs and then come back on. And its totally random when it happens! I first thought that maybe since the amp was mounted to the box that it broke something free from it as this problem only happens when my sub is playing at a pretty loud level. So I took the amp off the box and held it on my lap and played some more music and it still would go into protect at random but only when the bass would drop. I then tried to unhook the amp from the power and check all the connections for any resistance or a half blown fuse and it all tested just fine. 0 resistance in the power and ground and the fuse was fine and I even swapped a fuse with another new one I have laying around but the problem was still there. Then I disconnected all the mids and highs from the amp and played some more music but this time the protect light never came on at all. Then I tried to connect just the mids on channel 3+4 and it randomly went into protect. So then I connected just the highs to channel 1+2 and it went into protect at random. I checked the resistance of the mids and they are at 2 ohms like it should be and the tweeters are at 3 ohms. The power with the engine off is at 12.78v solid and at full tilt it gets to 12.68v. The power is at 14.8v with the engine running and goes to 14.4v at full tilt. The amp is also barely warm, more like lukewarm so its not a voltage or thermal protect issue. I ripped the back cover off the amp to check for any loose connections, blown fets, burnt resistors, broken buss bars and nothing is broken! There is no smoke from where the fets are, the buss bars are all intact and all the solder joints are still rock solid. WTF is going on with this? I had a problem back where when I had the tweeters on channel 3+4 they would randomly get a lower volume and then shoot back up and go back down again so to fix that I just put my tweeters on channel 1+2. Do you think I have a bad amp or something?
  18. I don't think the solos were aluminium cones though. Either way yeah it is kinda like them. I think its cool to have the sticker over the motor.
  19. Yeah I just realized my double standard lmao. Either way its always someone bitching about the price for anything so I don't get into the price wars. If I want to buy something but I think the price is way too much then I just let it be and go find something else.
  20. Exactly Hunter! It is the best looking sub I own other than looking at the motor on my SMD. lol. The reason I don't say prices are because I don't want to be the one that says the price I paid at the time and have the price go up or down later down the line and start a shit storm with the company in question of "why did kickass pay xxx for his shit and I have to pay xxx". Plus for nearly all of my parts in my system I have deep discounts that some people would deff bitch about for what I paid. I just try to avoid that price conflict at all costs as its not worth the fight.
  21. The final box design has been made. Now I just need to get that plexi and cut up my left over plywood from when I made the enclosure in my 'Voy. I have Bill from Psychoacoustics helping me out with making a 5" aero for the box that I can adjust to 23Hz or 27Hz on demand for listening to movies or just music.
  22. I was thinking the T-Line but my living room has horsehair plaster that is loaded with cracks and the ceiling is too. I am trying to not have the walls cave in from the sub. lmao. And Purple, do it up man!! I can't say yet how it will sign in a ported box but just in free air this sub gets down lower than any other sub I have owned and I really love that I can't hear the air rushing out of the gap on it. That is one thing that annoys me about the SMD is that in free air, all you hear is the air rushing out of the coil gap between the motors. Plus these leads are a different design than I have seen. Being woven through the spider pack instead of having thread go through the spider and around the leads. It looks real clean.
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