kickass audio
-
Posts
1976 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by kickass audio
-
-
I had an old stetsom 2k6d amp that was supposed to have an internal fuse. You had to take off the cover to the amp and unbolt it from the bolts that go where the positive terminal block and one transformer block are. It was modified so it didnt have an internal fuse so the amp could take more power and give a crap load of output and handle high voltages too. Internal fuses are more like mini ANL fuses that bolt between the power input of the amp and usually the power supply of the amp. Lots of amps out there dont have them such as my dc 5k and 175.4. Even if there was an internal fuse id still run an external fuse just before the amp to be safe and for any chance that you fail to crank down the screw for the power wire and it comes loose the fuse will pop when the wire shorts out and not cause a fire.
-
Usually for every 1000 watts your amp puts out you will need 100 amps of power for it. What gauge is that wire? It sounds like it may be like 4ga or something. Also some manufacturers go way below the current capability of their wire size due to the wire not being of high quality and not being able to handle the true current that said wire gauge is supposed to carry.
-
And in a few years you sooooo good ofc will oxydize and turn green losing all that extra current handling you guys are hung up on where cca crap as its called wont
Isn't each strand coated with aluminum though...?
And I would say if you never plan on running more than 3500W or so, just get the CCA.
The only time you get strands coated with something is if its Tinned OFC. That just means its like you take your solder and wick the wire with it. CCA is the same type of idea where you have aluminium wire that is tinned with copper. TBH i think it just throws people off that are looking for that nice and shiny penny look in power wire and when they see that with CCA they believe its OFC and pay out the ass for it.
-
Id get a fuse going between the cap and amp if it was my setup. And if you upgrade that cap to a battery down the line you want to put a fuse just before the cap so both sides of that main power wire from front to back are fused. Always fuse before the amp to be safe. Even though if you do draw too much power you can pop the fuse under the hood however that cap will still have some stored power although it wont be much it is still something and can spark a fire if the amp itself shorted out. Be safe and put a fuse just before the amp and know your car is safe. Also do NOT exceed the power capability of the wire for the fuse size.
-
As previously mentioned OFC or copper wire is better than CCA wire however for short runs you can put a crap load of current through them and not have issues. The shorter the runs of power wire you have the more amperage you can draw through them before they overheat or burn. It would be better for using copper wire however like bassick said cca will still get the job done just fine.
-
For your budget as much as i hate to say this hit up your local shop and see if they have some RF, Tsunami, old school audiopipe (their old lineup was a lot better than their current wire plus it was OFC, now its that CCA crap) and see if they can cut you a deal. I have a pretty good friendship with 3 local shops around me and i get some damn good deals from them.
-
Dont get CCA, get OFC cable. It handles current better and tbh it only costs a little more and is worth it. I have tsunami competition OFC wire for my entire big-3 upgrade and it is 99.999% tinned copper wire. The only problem with it is the jacket is stiff so its hard to route around but all i do for that is throw my wire on the back roof of my shed and let it sit in the sun for a hour and it bends with ease when warm. Rockford Fosgate wire is another one i use and it is also great too. The price for KNU wire and their strand count is where its at. This is the wire you should really consider getting: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX0BK Their KCA lineup will get the job done but the OFC makes a better connection and transfers more power.
-
Sorry this amp has been sold awhile ago. Mods please lock this thread.
-
cool thanks for telling me that.
I still wont slam on it with my smd from how far that my windshield will flex when i go full tilt. I miss my OEM windshield, that glass barely moved at all and my mirror button stayed on just fine. Oh well. -
^^just what he said. My dc 5k sparks really bad when i put the fuse in the anl fuse holder and i always expect it but it still makes you jump because of how loud and bright it is. Just look over every connection on that wire to make sure no strands are loose or about to ground out before you pop that fuse in and you will be all good.
-
Pretty much. Its like your engine runs fine with no extra strain on it but then you put that huge load on it from the alternator trying to charge with its slow speed. The RPM drops down too far and it doesnt have enough motion and force to keep the engine running so it just shuts down. Its not stalling or anything just powering off.
-
Yeah im not worried about it though. Lifetime warranty on the glass and labor from the shop that put it in and my insurance covers glass 100% so im set. lol. You will be fine though just go easy shutting the doors and dont slam on the sub for a week and it will set just fine. I did mine all in the winter we just had and it was 20 degrees outside and it worked just fine.
-
They may when they install it at the glass shop. The glass shop near me had my truck for a hour and a half before i could go pick it up every time i had it installed. If you follow the glass down past the plastic trim where my defroster vents sit and the wiper arms are there are little rubber slats that the glass sits on however the stock glass is the only thing that touches the very bottom of that stopper, the aftermarket glass i had put in (different brands,stock one was a pilkington, first one was not stamped to show the name, second one was a pilkington) was not as long as the OEM glass so it sits about 1/2 of a inch up from the ledge built into my panel. Everything else fits just fine and i have had no problems with it leaking or anything.
-
I had 3 windshields put in my truck and i waited a full week before i started playing my sub and closing the doors like normal. For that first week after its installed i had it sit in the sun but it was during the middle of winter so i wanted the bead to get warm and adhere well. I also would close my doors very slowly and usually bump them with my hip to close the latch all the way because if you shut them like normal it will build up pressure in the cabin and that can pop the seal on the window. Even though there are vents in the cabin it still builds up pressure from slamming the doors and stuff.
A week should be more than enough time for you especially if its warm out. Also one little side note is be careful of putting your mirror back on and slamming on it with your bass. I went through 2 windows alone due to the adhesive the mirror button was held on with being so poor it broke off and every time i had it reglued it would take a chunk of glass with it.
-
-
i agree with what kandiman said
If my 2.2L with a 270 amp singer alt doesn't die,
I'm sure his is fine lol.
c-fizzy its strange. Sometimes it does it, most of the time it doesnt do much but just make your rpms jump around with your current being drawn. When i demo my truck for people i usually have it off but most of the time its turned on but just sitting at idle and it never shuts off. I only had it shut off twice on me at idle. I have a small engine for an suv and its a 4.2l straight 6 and its a beautiful engine but it still has a damn good amount of power behind it so its not the matter of the engine. Its just the point of your rpm being down very low, that high stress and resistance for the load the alternator is being presented and the other loads from the rest of the accessory drive belt system that turn the engine off.
-
Yup then you cant really do much about that. Mine is intermittent when it happens but you cant really stop that from happening. A majority of the time i can slam at idle and be fine, my rpm just goes up and down a ton between notes from there being strain and no strain on the alt. I never recommend bumping at idle because first of all you cant get full output from your alt at idle, second with the alt spinning that slow it isnt getting enough spin to keep the internal fans spinning to cool it down, the strain on the alt at idle can actually burn it out, doing it around people at an intersection is just retarded and is a reason why most people hate us for having systems.
Having that small pulley doesnt really do much to help this at all. That just means that you dont have to rev your engine up as high to get the alternators rotor to spin and achieve full output.
-
When it died were you at a stop or actually driving it around? Ive stalled my truck twice since i had my 270 mechman unit in it from slamming hardcore at a redlight because the guy next to me wanted to hear it. It didnt shutter or anything it just was like i took my key and turned it to off. I idle at like 650rpm so that isnt much to make my alt spin and keep charging so when i put that high strain on the alt from going full tilt it took my engine speed and dropped it down so far it shut the engine down. I get this when im driving around and stop giving my engine gas and watch the rpm needle. If i were to take my music and pause it then wait a few seconds and play it at full tilt you will see my rpm drop and go back up from the strain it put on my alt. I like to keep my music down low at lights for the reason of not pissing everyone else around me off and that if i dont have my foot pounding down on that brake pedal and the rpm drops and goes up it will creep my truck forward some.
-
If i was going to remove it or anything i would but i wont be doing that so theres not any need for molex. Good idea though. I just wanted to see if there were any plugs i can just insert into the stock harness within the dash and that go in the back of the controls.
-
bump. Anyone know anything about doing this? i know plenty of people have relocated stuff in their dash.
-
I dont wax by hand like you do however i always use an applicator pad by hand and i can tell if there is something wrong since ive been waxing vehicles and everything since i was like 7. I can even feel the slightest little dirt mark on the body when i run the pad across it and its easy to see when the wax is on it and there is a spot that is darker than the rest. I have used an orbital buffer that spins back and forth before but only to remove wax, never to apply it. I dont trust myself with the big and heavy buffer my dad has for not holding it up enough or digging into the body and waxing the paint right off. lol. My dad did that once on my moms old car and that wasnt good.
edit: If anyone cares i use nothing but meguiars for my paint cleaner, polish and carnuba wax for my vehicles. I only use the paint cleaner once a year in the spring time, the rest of the time i judge it because i put 2-3 coats of wax on the body when i do it and that is 3 times a year that i wax it. I always do it right before winter time so the snow just flies right off the vehicle when i brush it. Then i clean, sometimes polish or just jump to 2-3 coats of wax in the spring to get rid of the scratch marks the snow brushes left on the clear coat and to clean it up nice from that damn new york state road salt.
-
Alright everyone i have a project for myself to get my new carputer, touchscreen and for what i played with today only a single vu-din installed in my dash. What i need to do is take my headunit and ditch it (planned on that anyways and use the carputer for everything) then to take my a/c controls and relocate them to inside my center console. I was originally just going to cut the wires one at a time and extend them to the length i needed however i wanted to see if there was anything easier. Does anyone know if i can get like a direct connect harness that plugs into the stock electrical plug on my HVAC control center and i can extend it then plug it back into the rear of the HVAC control center?
Like to put it this way i know you can get the male and female connections for headunits, do they have the same thing for the a/c control center on my truck? Id need the female one to plug into the stock harness in my dashboard, run the length of wire i need off that harness and then connect it to the male version of that harness then plug it into my a/c control center.
If anyone can help me out with this it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone ahead of time.
-
Thank you Torres, i was trying to think of the name of that port style but you knew it lol.
-
That port design to me wouldnt work well. First of all the inner part of that port isnt going to be screwed down at all and braced so it will move in the box under pressure. Second for only one part on the front of the box bracing the port it will not hold that much pressure of the box being pressurized of the subs moving and will break it off. You need a port that is not any bigger than the wall of the box you install it on. Just like what Meade has in his tahoe. You want to have it so that the port is like suspended inside the box. I.E. not touching any of the other walls.
I still wont slam on it with my smd from how far that my windshield will flex when i go full tilt. I miss my OEM windshield, that glass barely moved at all and my mirror button stayed on just fine. Oh well.
No fuses?
in Amplifiers
Posted
good post. Off topic but thats neat how they didnt put the phase adjustment in there but it is ready on the PCB.