ant the ninja

Ok I'll take a look a the framing screws, thanks. Really? I thought it was necessary to caulk as an added precaution. I need to find that! Thanks. I just dont wanna mess this one up.

Well the first box I ever built was for a friend and the box was sealed and too small and it was a disaster. I now have an awesome design thanks too 412 CVX. So I was just wondering if I could get some suggestions like: What type of screws is Silicone caulk ok to seal the inside? Best method to connect the subs? (bolts, terminals, ect.) And thats all I can think of so far so any other type of suggestions would be very helpful!! Thanks in advance.

SOLD please lock!

Replied

1. Product: Alpine MRP-M500 2. Specs: V-Power Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier RMS Power Rating: 4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan. 2 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan. [*]Max power output: 1000 watts x 1 chan. approx. [*]Pulse width modulated (PWM) MOSFET Power supply [*]Blue LED power indicators [*]Tuned Bass EQ (0-12 dB bass boost at 50 Hz) [*]STAR Board circuitry (minimizes internal noise and prevents ground interference) [*]Continuously adjustable gain control [*]Speaker level inputs and flush mount controls make installation a breeze [*]Dual sided glass epoxy PC Board [*]Thermal management control [*]Heat sinks along with the thermal processor monitor the amplifiers temperature [*]Gold-plated RCA level inputs [*]Gold-plated screw terminals [*]Adjustable low-pass filter (50-200Hz, 24 dB/octave) [*]Subsonic Filter (24 dB at 15 Hz) [*]CEA-2006 compliant amplifier [*]Frequency response: 20-200 Hz 3. Description/Condition: Cosmetic: 7/10 because of a few very minor scratches on top and No end caps Working: 10/10 Flawless Never dropped it down to 1ohm but I have heard from a few people that it would do it but I was too afraid too. 4. Price: : 60 Shipped OBO and for trades, let me know what you have! Open to all offers

Agreed.

The cadence one is 13 bucks for 22 feet...knu is 34 for 22 feet, so It is cheaper unless you meant something else by your post haha Edit: Although I'd trust knu more for power wire, that one sorta just looks like speaker wire to me.

Haha atleast its fixed

Just a question, why 8ohms?

Check your connection at the positive terminal. My buddy had a similar problem but we installed an amp in his 01 F150 and there is a stupid plastic piece that wraps underneath the positive terminal and was causing a very bad connection. Not sure if the 06 has one but check it and check your connections, that was our mistake.

I'm guessing you tried jumping it? Any luck with that? Is the THEFT light blinking or alarm going off when the ignition is turned? Did you test the battery? What kinda truck? (make model)

I'd listen to everyone about going ported. Me and my friend just built a box for 2 E8 v2's that was sealed because he has absolutely no room in the back of his F150 and it was all we can fit and he likes the way it sounds but it could be much louder. The box is just too small for the subs, I almost feel bad for them haha good luck with your build! Heres a pic to show how much this box is we made because of the space issue, I'm honestly not even sure how much cu.ft it is haha first box we've ever built

Yeah deff, they are adorable. they look like german shepherd, pit and maybe some sort of terrier mix.

It was very weird, I've never seen a car have that reaction to a bad connection, it had like enough juice from the bad connection to move the guages and turn the lights on but not the car, sounded weird too

Well we figured out the problem. Today, I through a DMM on it just to check the voltage when it would lock out the engine and when we i connected the DMM the anti-theft stopped, when I pulled the DMM off it went back on, apparently ford decided to put a place piece of the bottom of the positive terminal that over time melted down and caused a terrible connection from the terminal to the battery and putting the power wire on it basically separated what little connection there was. Cut the plastic piece off and replaced the terminal and everything is perfectly fine now.

The blue wire coming out of the harness...but come to think of it I did it quick and wasnt paying much attention, Might have hooked it into the wrong blue wire one but would that really cause the battery to have an issue? Unless you mean did I connect it to the constant cause I know I didnt do that ha. It still fine, doesnt die off. I dont trust myself or my friend enough to remove it, I think we may just bring it to a shop to look at that but we would really like to figure out this battery issue. Hes going to buy a new battery friday and see if that has anything to do with it, personally I dont think it does because like you said, something is setting off the anti-theft

Yeah I have no idea what to do with it. It acts like a kill switch like lets say on my brothers cadillac, it doesnt have an actual key just as long as its in the car and if you drive off without it the car shuts off. He has stock electrical and all that because at the moment it was only a MB quart 50.4 and the speakers werent even hooked up yet. I think the only thing to do is take it to a shop and have them look at it. We just wish we could figure it out before he spends the money because its probably something simple.

This is actually for a friends car, 2001 Ford Explorer F150. So we installed the power wire and ground and all that stuff and when we went to turn the car on it wouldnt start, THEFT kept blinking. Almost like a kill switch was engaged. Well then we remembered that when he bought the truck it came with a remote start installed but it never worked and the guy didnt know much about it so we just left it alone and used the stock key fob as the aftermarket ones didn't work. Once we pulled the power wire off the battery the car fired right up no problem. Could there be something interfering with this remote start? We trouble shooted for a little but the only time the car wouldnt start is when the power wire was hooked up. It wouldnt even start when the power wire wasn't hooked up to the amp and only the battery. I cant figure it out but the only thing that makes me think its the remote start is that THEFT keeps blinking, my old remote start did that if you tried to drive it away without the keys in it and the engine would disengage. Any thoughts?

wrong section

Alright thanks again. Damn, you've been a big help. My soldering kit is coming tmo, wish me luck.

Thats what Im thinking, off HU power it shouldn't be too bad. Not real sure why I didnt just ask you directly since I bought them from you haha. So with hu power 50-60 is ok but without it, 80?

I have a question about these, I just bought them from someone on here and I want too know if I should have them crossed at anything on my HU or if the external xovers are enough? The HPF I have on my HU cuts out all bass to the mids and tweets because I dont have an amp running them right now. The settings for my HPF are 53 60 8O 100 and 125. They sound great with it off and good when its on except theres no bass at all from the mid (obviously). So basically my question is, is the external xover from crescendo ok to use without using the HPF on my hu since I do not have them amped?

Yeah Im gonna build my own out of MDF tmo and see how that goes haha thanks guys

So I just got crescendo CCX's and my ford uses 6x8/5x7 speakers so I bought the adapter to convert them into 6.5 but now Ive run into this... Not sure if you can tell from the pictures but the basket on the ccx's are too wide, am I screwed? Or is my only other option like building an adapter myself?

Not to thread jack but I was thinking about that and I got so excited because it seemed like such an easy way out and boom, you ruined it haha