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kirill007

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Posts posted by kirill007

  1. i have a hfi2500.1 and it does NOT do rated power i posted a thread about it a few month ago and it is very power hungry & mine did 1499 watts@14 volts ...thats the only bad i have found...it has been running @.7 ohm for almost a month and never gets super hot or turns off(unless i have messed with the gains and it clips) it sounds very clear no distortion if properly tuned & the price is not all that bad for what it will do...now i did clamp it again and got a lil over 2k @.7 oh on 13.7 volts so i would say if u want 2k or more and want a hfi get the 3000.1 or 2500.1 the hfi2 will probably only do 1200 watts @1 ohm but if u want rated and not as big of a price get a brz or bxi brutus series and ull get that power it claims G.L

    If it really produces 2k being wired at .7 ohm and rising to a other ohm load i guess it actually does rated.

    Or does it rise to .7 ohm? How did you measure?

    To the Topicstarter, save up a bit more, you'll enjoy the audioque more or atleast the hifonics brutus.

  2. very interesting.

    I'm experiencing an annoying issue with my Honda in the exhaust department. Currently, my header is running through a high flow cat, then a straight pipe all the way to the muffler (no resonator). However, when I put a silencer in the exhaust, which is annoyingly loud might I add, I gain quite a bit of pick up. It is very noticeable. Is this because I am simply losing power due to oversized components? All I really did was remove any restrictions from the header back.

    What does this mean?

    Torque or acceleration maybe?

    If he means that, then it's normal the silencer gives you more low end power because air moves too fast thru the exhaust if it doesn't have enough "back pressure".

    On lower RPM you need the air to slowly fill thechamber if it goes too fast, the air and fuel mixture will slighty get out and you lose HP.(except if you adjust the timings.)

  3. very interesting.

    I'm experiencing an annoying issue with my Honda in the exhaust department. Currently, my header is running through a high flow cat, then a straight pipe all the way to the muffler (no resonator). However, when I put a silencer in the exhaust, which is annoyingly loud might I add, I gain quite a bit of pick up. It is very noticeable. Is this because I am simply losing power due to oversized components? All I really did was remove any restrictions from the header back.

    What does this mean?

  4. 4v pre-outs just mean you don't turn you gains up as much to match your head unit . At least that's my understanding.

    Your subwoofer amp gets a stronger input so it doesn't have to be turned up as high to meet the same output. Allows for more power with a lowered chance for clipping because you're not stressing the amp as hard.

    Lol, more power from higher input voltage. If that was true we would all use a line driver and boost it to 10 volt. The amp isnt stressed more when turning up the gain and keeping wattage equal.

  5. thats amazing but there has been a bigger breakthrough in physics basically everything we know has to be tossed out the window because eisensteins theory of relativity has been proven false (not completely but parts of it) like the part about not being able to move faster than the speed of light a group of scientists working at a giant particle accelerator have been able to crash particles together and an increasing rate faster than the speed of light

    Not true, learn how to read articles please.

    It has not been proven wrong, there was a mistake. Ironically it was because they didnt' think about the reletivity in the formula.

    So they came up that the neutrino's came 60nanoseconds too early, and if they use the correct formula they have to add 64nanoseconds, so 4nanoseconds slower then light over a distance of 72x kilometre.

    Slower then light, thankgod, because if the relativity theory from Einstein would be wrong a lot of things have to be revisited. Einstein was really amzaingly smart.

    THis is a cool video, physics is fun.

  6. SQ isn't subjective. The RTA is what makes it non subjective.

    The person who posted that threw around the terms, but they really had no basis. The W6 isn't a 'SQ' driver. It's a normal sub just like the AQ SD2.5. When I say normal, it means that there really isn't anything that makes it much different than any other driver.... Other than that 2.75" Voice coil. They both have the potential to sound decent, and they both have the potential to create Sound pressure. (SPL) It is the application (Or box) that you put them in that dictates their SPL or their SQ.

    Actually the W6 is a SQ subwoofer, the W7 is used less in SQ setups.

    It's not anything like a audioque sub at all.

  7. i have always wanted to add deadener inside my box too, just to see if it makes a diff on the termlab.

    technically it should make the box a lil stronger rite ?...

    grab a sheet of sound deadener, now grab a sheet of MDF and try to flex each one.

    See which one flexes easier and the other doesn't? Sound deadener doesn't adds strenght to mdf or anything that is strong.

    Door panels are flimsy, that's why sound deadener helps.

  8. I just want to know why that 3500 is only doing 1000-1500??? Is his rise really hurting him that much? Can someone please explain? :drinks:

    you know rise is caused from the box correct? the way you keep saying it you make it seem like its the amp, his box is prolly terrible.. in my own setup i only clamped 2,3xx out of mine rising from .5 to 2.6 (which is way more than even its 2 ohm rating)

    Well see that makes a lot more sense to me, he must have a HUGE amount of rise then correct? Like, he is prolly rising from something like .5 to 4.2 or some crazy number like that?

    So I guess I need to learn what exactly it is about the box that creates the rise, so I can try to avoid as much as possible? Sorry I am TRYING to learn? :peepwall:

    from my understanding, larger boxes usually help knock down rise, as well as direct connections from the amp to the woofers.. speaker terminals/bolts can help factor into rise.. theres no way to get 100% around it, and musical rise is way different than 1 note rise, on music frequencies are constently changing so you can be rising anywere from 2-4 even 8

    my old kicker CVX12s on my aq1200d i was rising to just over 3 ohms, i bypassed the speaker terminals and went directly from amp to woofers and kept it to around 2.5, gained about .8 musically, i went from 142s on music to just over 43s

    It's smaller boxes.

  9. Ok, well after getting a few things fixed I will come back to this post. After seeing CJ18s Vids the scope and DD1 was very close between the 2 as far as output voltage. Well with my 1100.1s strapped there was I big difference to me.

    TPI 440 perfect wave 240v

    DD1 230.5v

    Keep in mind this was with the amps strapped and all filter set prior to any gain adjustments

    That only means that the 1100.1's are creating more distortion then CJ's amps.

    I was mainly getting at the more power output form the amps the larger the margin will be. for the smaller amps 10 volt realistically probly wont cause sub damage. But in this cause prolonged use with 15k plus in power even 1 or 2 volts can kill the subs within seconds

    True, the more power you have the better you need to know how to control it.

    That's why high powered systems aren't good for beginners.

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