andreg3000

damn, never thought of the continuous chassis - makes perfect sense though. Now I gotta go do some investigating, Thanks all

This is what I initially thought and was therefore gonna do the extra run of positive and just beef up the rear grounds at several different points. But I have always heard its ideal to do equal runs of both. I don't want to waste $80-$100 on adding something that's not worth the improvement. Anyone else want to chime in??

Ture, very true. Now if I do add the 1/0 neg run, should it be from the alternator mounting bolt, or from the front battery neg terminal? BTW big three also done already

Probably a stupid question, but would it be better to do 1/0 gauge 2 runs pos vs 1 run of pos & neg? Currently have 200A mechman & D3400 up front, 3x D975's in the back. Just ordered some more 1/0 to do an additional run but don't know if voltage drop / charging would be better with a particular setup. I know ideally, you should have equal runs of both, but if I could only add one more run what would be the best setup? Thanks

Love the build man, great job. BTW what was the whole sub floor for under the box? Was it just to give a studier platform?

between work, wife, kids and personal time....where do you find time to not only work on the system, take pics and vids then turn around and post everything online. Seriously you need an assistant who's sole job is capturing pics/vids and uploading to the site. Awesome work so far. This shit's addicting, it's kinda bad when the first thing I do when I get home is check the build log.

Absolutely awesome Steve, keep it up. So what are you doing with all that old 1/0 and smaller wire your replacing? Any reason it wouldn't still be good or is it just cause you want new? Love the thread, keep it coming

That was 4 gauge that I disconnected from my mids amp. The 0/1 is all wrapped up and I didn't need all that wire just to demonstrate a point. Thanks for noticing though.

Finally got it

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ill try and get you visual learners a nice video...tomorow. Spoke with Maxxsonics Corporate, shipping it out tomorow. Definitely something internal going on. Whatever its covered under warranty

Thanks. Yeah I PM'd maxxsonic-mike and Ill try to reach them by phone tomorrow.

Thanks, yeah I think some how the amp is either grounding out on itself or the remote and power lines are possibly connected. I don't know how this could happen since everything has been securely screwed down, no damage/drop, no significant voltage drop (never below 13.0V). Maybe it just decided to create its own circuit and start screwing my shit up. Ill PM maxxsonics. Thanks

No relay on the remote, just straight back from the deck. This setup was nothing new. I've had this thing bumping fine for ~6mth

Yeah I did check the remote wire going to both amps and all is well. 12V+ with headunit on...0.0V with headunit off. With the car and everything off (remote disconnected), the amp is still lit up and on..... I unplug the ground to the amp--->the lights go off/amp turns off---> (with everything still off) I re-connect the ground to the amp and it turns on. Might have to call hifonics, just trying to save shipping this thing away and having no beat for however long.

So I've noticed that my sub amp (Hifonics Brutus Bxi-2610D) ~6 mth old, doesn't turn off when I turn the car off or turn the headunit off. I tested my remote and it's voltage shuts off properly when HU is off or car is off. My other mids amp (sharing the same electrical) works fine and turns off no problem. It still plays fine when I put music to it and its never gone into protect, but with the car off the illuminating blue light is still on. The amp doesn't have any external fuses, but I've double checked all other fuses and they're all good. I'm thinking there's something wrong internally with this amp, but I wanted to try and get some insight from someone before I go mailing this hunk of metal back to Hifonics. Any insight is appreciated. Here's a pic of the setup

^^Now that's some juice!!!

True, who the hell knows. Oh well, thank you guys for all the advice. Figure now its time to build and see how it sounds. Would rather ask twice (or three times) and cut once. Will have some build pics in the upcoming days.

Anyone know if not running usual 12-16"^2 of port per ft^3 is detrimental to overall sound, port noise or efficiency???

So after some port tweaking (5"W to 4"W), I was able to get rid of the nasty port turn. Now I'm at ~7.5ft3 and 31-32Hz after displacement. However this now leaves me with just 78"2 of port. Anyone want to comment on whether or not having optimal 12-16"2 port per ft3 in this situation is going to make a major difference. I would rather stick with this design and not have a crazy port, but if having sub-optimal port area is going to decrease efficiency and overall sound then I need to start over. As always, thanks for the advice.

Yeah the port turn is steep, but it has to be ~29" long to get 30-32 Hz. I don't know any other way to route it without losing too much airspace. Anyone know if this is gonna pose a huge dilemma for efficiency or air turbulence. The sketch is very rough and probably exaggerates the angle. Never built a port against an angled wall but if anyone has some experience or advice, please chime in.

Revise? As far as port placement, dimensions, length or sub placement? Unfortunately I have to keep the angled back, to try and use all the space back there. I wanna try subs up port back. Any advice is well appreciated. Thanks.

2003 ford explorer. As long as the batteries don't blow up, its what I have for now. So far voltage not below 12.5V, it'll have to do until I can justify scrapping a perfectly fine yellow top.

Yeah that's another question I forgot to address. Because of the angled back and the required length of the port, dunno if the sharp turn is going to be a problem for the port. Actually both boxes have roughly the same turn into the port.