fritosaregood

I used to have a single one in a real low tuned ported box. it was great.

yea, but im workin on a ported design right now. im gonna have to break out my big roll of fiberglass

1500rms each. i use to have a single axis on the amp at 1 ohm and it did fine

I got both axis's workin and put them in a sealed box, for now. powered by a sundown 3000 at .5 ohms.

separate chambers too, i had two audiopulse axis's in a common chamber sealed box, i couldnt even turn it up without wierd sounds. then my amp went in to protect??? So i made separate chambers and it sounds great now

2nd this Ive got two battery maintainers from walmart, 1.5 amp charge, with a float charge once its done. 20 bucks each. ive got 2 2400s sitting on them right now

it would just have different planes that the woofers are on, it may be louder with them all in the same direction, but its in a truck so that can be hard.

there really isnt that much cancellation with low notes. ive and subs facing each other and it was still loud

Why not just get the dual 4 T2's, all the coils wired in parallel will give you a 1 ohm loaded, that will give you enough power with 1 amp. that amp might even do 2000rms at 1 ohm. itll come with a birthsheed thatll tell for sure. edit: i got beat.

Update: I decide to do another test, but this time with roughly half the power. Before i started the temp of the amp was 74 F I played music for 19 mins. The tempurature this time was 77.5 F on the power terminal side, and 84.8 F on the RCA side. Pretty much the same as the fult tilt test. So further conclusions are these temps seem to me regular operating temps at this low ohm.

ive got 3k.. hehe

when all you here is their midbass. just turn up your bass bass. thats what i do when ppl with just some tweeters in there cars pulls up next to me at a light and they have there windows down. but the less sound escapin outside means more is inside.

talk to your insurance guys about addin comprehensive. it will cover breakins. youll have to give them reciepts for everything you put in, and theyll take pictures. There may be rules about it having to be bolted down, but my insurance never told me i had too. My deductible is 150 or 200 i think.. but it beats another 3k+ for all new stuff. and it only added $85 every six month

i dont know much about cars. but maybe you idle speed is too low.

i use some of there aluminum ground connectors to connect my 0 gauge to my batteries, My voltage stays up the same when i had the gold plated ring terminals connecting the wires, at least no very noticable dip.

not too bad, and us smd guys get a discount there too. the one at lowes it maybe 2.50 though, i think its aluminum too.

ok i loose to this one. but remember the heat shink to insulate it

i meant more for car, truck or suv. because a truck wouldnt need to be as long usually look around at a lowes in there wire section for the butt splicers, and cover it in some layers of heatshrink. or you could get some more 4 gauge wire. Ebay should have good 4 gauge that shouldnt be too expensive.

I added comprehensive to my coverage after my first break in, i got a viper alarm too, and no discount for me. its funny how even the insurance place thinks i have too much stuff, cuz i have to go take a pic of it whenever i add something. Ive got a thick folder that shows the progression of my setups. but with just liability, that doesnt cover anything that getting an alarm would help out anyway

take the fuse holder out of that wire, it should be closer the battery anyway. do you know how long you need the wire to be, to make it to your trunk (you have a car right?)

Lowes has some connectors like you looking for, it connects the butts of two wires together with some machine scews. like how most amp power terminals are. You could use this to connect the two wires, then put a few layers of heat shrink around it. How long do need the wire. you could use the 15" to run to the fuse, then the 12' to the amps

Yea, i know a little better than that

ok. so the main part is smaller port for more pressure. i was thinking that but i didnt know it would go that small.

would a flare on the inside help

What makes a good port war box? What should the port look like?