kandiman71874

http://www.darvex.com/voltage_monitor.html

Roscoe is Irish ya tard lol

i've noticed with mine that they dont like to have the power cycled off then back on real fast either. It's like the meter doesnt totally shut down then when the power comes back it will only light the stinger logo. give it a few seconds inbetween turnign the key off and then back on and i havent had that problem at all. Mine is also wired up on an interupter switch so i don thave to constantly have the blue attepting to blind me while driving at night. there needs to be a dimmer on them bishes...

In most unibody cars, you will have issues with ground loops and ground continuity through the entire body due to small spot welds and gaps being filled with seam sealer, the full runs are to ensure that there is a common ground source being ran through out the entire vehicle from the generation of the power at the front battery and alternator to the back where the amperage pull will be from the amplifiers and to any auxillary batteries. This is the case in almot any car made anymore or truck being that full seam welding which creates a better greound path through the vehicle is time consuming and inturn raises vehicle costs for the manufacturer. Raytard beat me to my explination and said the same thing basically damnit lol

he said songs, not tones

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...?showtopic=6399

they are connected internally,yes this is true. But in due time alot of lead acid batteries have had issues with internal breaking of the top terminal internally to the plates and making a piss poor connection therefore causing some serious voltage drop. if you are gonna use both side and top, keep an eye on your voltages as the battery age increases so you dont accidently blow up equipment...

Bumpin could add more to this more than likely, more than i can thats for sure. I remember them from years back as a home audio company but never saw anything car audio wise out of them. Your turn Ken