Jump to content

EricM9104

18+ All Access!
  • Posts

    4395
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by EricM9104

  1. They make special cutters to heat up the glue that holds the window in as it cuts. Pretty pricey tool however.

    Or you can do it the old fashioned way and cut the seal/glue with piano wire (its going to take 2 people) 1 person on the inside of the car, other on the outside, and just pull the piano wire back and forth.

    Works best when your doing it outside in the hot summer sun.

    To make it easier you can try to heat up the glue with a heatgun in small spots before cutting.

    This.

    Cold outside? Might as well say fuck it and break it, with it cold the glue won't set properly. Take it into a shop. Or do it yourself in a heated shop.

  2. hmm

    i think i may go with the cda-105, even though it doesnt have the aux like i would prefer it has a USB which i may use and i guess i can deal with the direct connection for ipod through the HU

    Indeed.

    It doesn't have internal bluetooth I don't think, unless I can't get mine to work... AI-NET expansion cables will NOT work with the CDA-105 soo... CDA-105 does have a nice HPF and such for the mids/highs. Subwoofer control, bass and treble control, no midrange control. Could always get the IMPRINT processor.

  3. CRANKED GAINS, exactly, the subs are rated at 750 rms a piece which would technically want to see 1500rms total but this alld epends on the box and such, and that amp at 1 ohm is rated to put out 1500rms so the gain would be set relatively high

    What the FUCK are you going about moron?

    The amp does 1200-1300w @ 1ohm... Gains set correctly and those L7 12"s would still get pretty loud... My AP-15001D pushes my Fi Q 12" just fine at 1ohm :fyi:

    Please elaborate as to WHY the gain would need to be set high? It matches the input signal on the amplifier with that coming from the head-unit.

×
×
  • Create New...