EricM9104

That's great. Is it accurate? Hook up an o-scope and verify.

Have you checked with an oscilloscope to make sure the subs are getting a clean signal?

This is absolutely awesome, I'd stay up all night reading through his build logs and such until he stopped posting. Had been wondering about him for quite some time now.

Nice to see you're still around, whip looks clean! Looking forward to more pics!

Such an awesome build, just went through and read it all. Looks good man!

Yeah.... They gave me a confused look and said they would need to check with one of their colleagues... They said as long as I'm not close to the speaker, the most that will happen is it'll think I'm exercising or moving around and bump my heart rate up.. Just listen to what's comfortable. Thanks, still have a few more tests to see if my heart's going to get worse, or not. Either way the pacemaker is there to stay, just didn't expect it in my mid-30s.

Looks like it'd work great for powering RF equipment for being able to use the shielding to block out EMI from RF transmitting. Car audio, pointless.

You can wrap with any material of your preference... in my opinion i'd get the low spots out, leveled out, add texture and paint to match the interior. that's just me though.

Just curious if anyone knows or has seen anyone listening to a decently loud setup with a pacemaker? Any negative effects? I know getting close to the magnet of subs (well any magnet really) is a no-go. Just wondering about the bass effect.

Gotta pay to play. You can upgrade the speakers, that could help increase sound quality provided you buy quality speakers.

In your case, having to ask, I'd keep it as OE as possible, don't opt for the PCM bypass or their "boosted harness", which could trigger the CEL, and give you problems down the road with passing smog which will auto fail if the CEL is triggered. With it being a 95, it's doubtful the alternator is even controlled by the PCM, but every vehicle is different. Depending on how much power you're pulling with the off road lighting, two extra batteries wired in for reserve should be plenty to keep voltage above 13v.

Holy spaghetti.... I'd suggest, clean up your wiring first, get rid of that aluminum splice/whatever it's called going from your main batt ground to the secondary. I'm sure there's either corrosion underneath the side post terminals, or inside of the boot (they love to corrode and not be seen). RCA wires being close to your alternator feed will bring in whine, bad grounding will also introduce whines, any oddball grounds will introduce whine (ground loop feedback)... Check your grounds under the engine bay and in the trunk area, make sure they have a clean metal on metal contact, no corrosion, no paint/etc...

Start with a ported box and 1kw on bass, not 8kw for a beginner build. You're also not going to fit a bandpass box for two 15s in the trunk of a honda accord.

That could be either a setting within your phone or Apple Music...

Apple Music compresses the files to their format, iOS devices have sound settings that have to be basically turned off to mimic playback from a USB drive. Always set it for the loudest possible input, in this case the USB drive with the files directly playing. That way no matter what the source, you run a minimal chance of sending a clipped signal.

Set the gains with the audio test files from a USB drive.

Chances are is your voltage is dropping too low. ~150a on the sub amp, 4ga to a 2 farad cap, that's not enough. The 4ga should be swapped for 1/0, and replace the cap with a battery. Even a small XS D925 would help dampen the electrical load. Has the big3 been done to support the 200a alternator?

4ohm to 1ohm does bring in a higher THD, but at sub-bass frequencies it's not noticeable. You'll only hear it on the higher end of the spectrum. Your only wiring options are going to be (series/series/parallel) 2ohm final load, (parallel/parallel/parallel) 0.5ohm final load, not recommended if you're asking about it though. Only other option is 8ohm final (series/series/series), so ya.. I'm not too refreshed on audio these days, but if the taramps outputs 1500wrms @ 2ohm, go for the D2 drivers. If it's 1500wrms @ 1ohm, go for D4 drivers and wire them in full parallel.

Just curious, what new DSP did you order?

Joe X was referring to the plastic body panels inside, not the metal structural pieces. Pull the rear cargo panels, it's easier to get to by removing the tire jack and spare tire removal etc etc... None car audio related, but vehicle related... Can always try a Chilton or Haynes book to see what steps it has for removal of body panels/etc.

mp3 files utilize compression to make the file smaller, whereas .wav is essentially a raw audio file with no compression, similar to flac audio files.

Nice clean build! Seeing that cable management has me wanting to pull mine apart (i7 11700kf, 64gb ram, 4070Ti), and actually organize properly... Jealous of the 5G symmetrical, I can only go to 1G through my only local fiber ISP.. You could've gotten a 10G PCI-X NIC, but good excuse for building a new badder ass PC

lmao right, i don't even know how i'd fit a d3100 in my civic's bay

Handled it way better than I would've, i would've straight up ripped out ass out and beating on him lol. Thieves fucking suck 😠

The before is a whole lot like my 04 Yukon is right now...after, HOLY CRAP! Looks damn good!