Jump to content

EricM9104

18+ All Access!
  • Posts

    4395
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by EricM9104

  1. i just got a 01 last august with over 300Km's on it and it run's and look's like new, for the most part it's a tank. like kryptonite Said just make sure it's been maintained and your good.

    only thing is the newer Vortec have a few noises like lifter tapping and/or Piston Slap, youtube it.

    i just let mine warm up in the morning.

    My link

    Lifter tapping is easy, piston slap = time for a rebuild

  2. I love budget builds, because thats how mine started.

    My truck (1989 Dodge D150) had a radio/cassette and a pair of 21 year old stock components. Bought a pair of Rockford 5x7s and a used alpine deck. My amps were hand me downs and my first sub was 1 12" Walmart Pioneer. I imagine you will start off better, however haha.

    If you are looking for a cheap but loud substage, I would recommend looking at the Skar VVX 12s.

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/123519-2-skar-vvx-12s-custom-ported-box-special-35999-shipped/

    They have a deal right now for 2 12" subs and a custom dual ported box to your specs for $359.99 shipped. I haven't personally heard these subs, but from the Youtube vids I have seen, they look like some solid equipment, especially for the price.

    Also, some pretty decent true power amps are the Audiopipe AP series. They have 10001D, 15001D, 18001D, and 30001D. they are pretty close to true power, and the 1000, 1500, 1800, and 3000 watts are RMS value. I have the 15001D in my truck and it looks to be able to do about 1200 to 1300 RMS at 1 ohm. Not to mention I bought mine from Ebay for $150 shipped.

    Just a couple of products to look at to get started that I find pretty good deals. Feel free to look at other products and compare, you will find something you like.

    Skar's I've been looking into.

    I've had Audiopipe before, meh. SQ was junk. My old rf bd1500 at 1ohm was cleaner sounding (was only specced for 1500wrms at 2ohms). Either way, the new Audiopipe products are junk and not built like their old stuff.

  3. I'm trying to find easy ways to save money on my car projects so I can do more modifications more frequently. Typically, I am a firm believer in "You get what you pay for." However, is a $200 to $300 ram air intake really necessary for an engine that won't yield high results to begin with (GA16DE)? I am only hoping to gain a few horsepower. It's mostly just for fun. So, my question is: Am I a fool to buy a $40 to $50 intake kit off ebay or am I just a smart shopper? :pardon:

    Opinions please!

    Modify an ebay intake into a ram air

  4. http://www.aemelectronics.com/engine-management-systems-9/fuel-ignition-controller-f-ic-12/

    Would greatly help tuning with a turbo setup... Piggyback system, almost like a standalone but isn't.

    i already know about this and from what i understand, it doesn't do what needs to be done. You still cannot tune this ECU. The piggy back is close but not close enough, with this car. Yet.

    Alright, it offers fuel/ignition tuning which is basically all you'll need for a turbo setup :)

    Be nice to have a wideband setup.

  5. i plan on boosting a b18 but most of the blocks im looking at on Ebay and what not look like complete monkey shit, other than looking inside the cylinder walls for cracks what else should i look at?

    They are the best of blocks to boost, thanks to an open deck design. Great motor to build for N/A though

    no open deck block is good to boost..... thin cylinder walls..... a great block to boost is a fully closed deck..... have it sleeved and put bout 25 psi to it (with proper internals and standalone ecu and such) and you will have a QUICK car.

    me personally im not a honda person...dont have anything against them but i like my subaru.

    btw isnt the k20 the most powerful out of the box? thats what i was told lol i heard they are hard to find aftermarket parts for though n thats why no one uses them.....

    idk...

    Sorry about that. I had mean't they aren't the best block to boost right off the bat.

  6. If I were to "free air break in" a sub... I would play a test tone at the woofer's resonant frequency on my home receiver. I hook up my laptop that has a tone generator to the receiver and increase volume until the sub is moving around half of it's xmax.

    Playing at the Fs of a woofer will cause it to not move as much, and in theory heat up the coil pretty quickly due to little air movement in the pole vent.

×
×
  • Create New...