EricM9104
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Posts posted by EricM9104
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German engineering... Lol, of course they would put sensors in the damn pads. Why can't they just stick with the squeal indicators???
Because of tards not being able to listen to it, majority of german car owners are women who do all their makeup while driving, and talking on the phone. They're too damn "busy" to listen for the squeal indicator.
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I'd go with I/H/E, cam, tune, on the bottle. That alone should get that light ass Crx moving. N/A is the most reliable :-)
Turbo'd daily Honda fail.
Open deck, that's all I'll say. Sure, it may hold up, but I wouldn't.
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i plan on boosting a b18 but most of the blocks im looking at on Ebay and what not look like complete monkey shit, other than looking inside the cylinder walls for cracks what else should i look at?
They are the best of blocks to boost, thanks to an open deck design. Great motor to build for N/A though
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The 90's Tahoes should be pretty cheap if you can find one without a lot of miles I'd do that, or maybe an expedition or something..I don't think I could get 4 15's in my explorer without being way above the window line, and a blazer would probably be almost just as small
You can fit roughly 12^3' around the windowline... Not reccomended for 15s unless being overpowered.... Or run port to side or top, and be like 23^3' (box volume itself, not inside..)
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Little update, replaced ignitor, P/S pump started spraying all over the place, had a new clutch line made, and put in a new front main...Also painted again
SR20 to come when funds are available
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The only way I can describe it is a full body experience. I even changed my mind on what car to get because of it. I used to want a small nimble car, now I want an suv with space for alternators and extra batteries and such.
I until then, the loudest thing I heard was about 130 db - so it was a HUGE suprise for me!
Heck, does anyone know of a good cheap spacy car that has room for 4 15s or so?
Explorer.
Can they hold 3-4 alts? And what years?
1st and 2nd gen (1991-2001). Can do 3 with custom brackets...Along with ditching the A/C system.
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The only way I can describe it is a full body experience. I even changed my mind on what car to get because of it. I used to want a small nimble car, now I want an suv with space for alternators and extra batteries and such.
I until then, the loudest thing I heard was about 130 db - so it was a HUGE suprise for me!
Heck, does anyone know of a good cheap spacy car that has room for 4 15s or so?
Explorer.
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mounts don't "make" extra power, they just help with off the line acceleration whereas worn mounts absorb some of that "shock".
You won't see more power.
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Gone pignose with front lip...Looks slammed.
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ok so a little over a month, i lied
new paint scheme...gonna be all white
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I guess you don't have your paypal linked with your bank account yet? It will be good to do that, since it will pull the extra money directly from your bank account, if your paypal balance doesn't cover everything.
I don't have a credit card, only normal bank card.
If you don't have a credit/debit card it's not possible as far as i have tried.
My debit card worked great with paypal
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Paid $500 for the shell. I've only got about 2 months of on and off work into it
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why not jus do a sr20 swap. cheap and powerful with alot of room to grow. ka motors are aweful.
I didn't have the $3k to swap in an SR20
Running KA, I don't care...
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Nah, gutted the interior for it to be lightweight.
It'll get 1 12", 2 at the most. After I fix my roof.
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It's never gonna see a wall, lol sorry.
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Alright, bought this 240SX SE Coupe loooking like this...
Got it home, tore down the KA24DE and it's royally fucked (seized and rusted internals). KA24E, I have no use for.
Bought a motorset for #325, had a blown head gasket, but came with a nice clutch line, ACT 6-puck unsprung clutch, and an ACT lightweight flywheel.
All back together...
In...
Wired up...
Found a can of satin black..
Sticking with flat black for now...
Audio aspect.... Pioneer 4x6 or something in front pass door (nothing in driver door) and pioneer 2 or 3 ways 6.5" in rear deck, along with an oldddddd Pioneer DEH-3400.
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Get a slower car (civic) and don't add any stupid stuff that "adds" horsepower (IE: Fartcan, body kit, clear tail lights, and stickers)
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Don't forget to fix the oil leak so it doesn't happen again
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10" pup.
will laugh at 5k
Where can one get 1.21 gigawatts and a flux capacitor?
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new to the forums, and figured this might be a good place to ask.
ive got a '90 Jeep Cherokee that i bought a few months ago. what i didnt realize when i bought it, however, is that it had seen some rough times as well as having a pretty serious oil leak at some point that left the entire undercarriage with what i can only describe as a "second skin" of oil. im talking 3mm thick across almost every inch of the bottom. i dont have pictures at the moment, but i can take some if needed.
what im wondering is if there is anywhere, pref. in the Jacksonville, FL area, where i can get some hardcore cleaning done to the bottom. ive tried degreaser, pressure washing, undercarriage carwash, etc. all almost completely ineffective. i had to resort to taking a 1" and 3" putty scraper to try and scrape off what i can. it works better than everything else ive tried, but its incredibly time-consuming, and there are many places that i simply cant reach.
my biggest issue aside from the ugliness of it, is that when i drive, the oil burns off and coats the liftgate with a film of oil. as well as making it seems like im riding around with a fog machine whenever i stop.
anywayyyyyyyyyyyys, long story even longer, im in need of a fix. if anyone could help, itd be greatly appreciated.
sandblast
If ya wanna eat away the fuel lines and various electrical wiring...
Engine degreaser, can be bought at your local auto parts store, spray the undercarriage with it, rinses off with a hose i believe.
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Too bad viper engines are pathetic. There are hondas that put out more power.
Very respectable wrench time though!
Honda's can do it with 30lbs+ boost....not daily app.
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2 Q 12s would do wonderfully
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Just wire in the positive for the meter to your remote input on your amp. Viola.
This is actually not accurate. There are a few things between the remote and the battery, best place to monitor is right on the big terminals on the amp.
Don't believe me? Go check.
Just shut up Chris! Lol Jk.
But if you wire it to your positive on the amp, then you need a toggle switch.
which is only like $1 at local hardware store, if that much...lol
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If you do go with Audiopipe amps, find their older ones, silver cases I beleive. I had an AP-15001D, beat the shit out of it,.
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Replacement Nissan parts, cheapest online where?
in Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
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If that site has prices like http://courtesyparts.com Stick with it.
Stick with OEM Nissan parts, and that pricelist actually looks about right considering what the parts are.