skittlesRgood
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Posts posted by skittlesRgood
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I know this wont be recommended and I might not get an answer for obvious reasons but I have to ask. will the new 1500 be as robust as the last 1500? the V2 was known for being able to play down at .25ohm and work just fine.
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Well that case cleaned up extraordinarily well. Just curious, how is this free? Are you trading for parts?
cpu is a free sample from intel. then i have other gear i can trade or sell for the same price, or more, as the parts I need. oh, i forgot the drives. ill add them to the list. they are also free bees from work.
Just curious, where do you work?
If the sample proc is coming from work, I wouldn't recommend posting as such. Companies aren't supposed to give those away, whether it's to an employee or not.
well then i shouldnt say where I work then, should i?
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Well that case cleaned up extraordinarily well. Just curious, how is this free? Are you trading for parts?
cpu is a free sample from intel. then i have other gear i can trade or sell for the same price, or more, as the parts I need. oh, i forgot the drives. ill add them to the list. they are also free bees from work.
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first let me show you the parts I plan on using. Some I'll be getting free, some I'm trading gear for but the goal is to not come out of pocket for anything.
BIG thank you to bassjunkie and onelivinlarge for helping me pick out all the components for this build. Couldn't have done it without them because I don't know shit
CPU - free
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16819116504
motherboard (up to the guy im trading though)
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16813130648
probably the graphics card
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16814130625
two 4GB dimms I'll be trading for.
either an 80gb or 160gb SSD, intel - free
1TB HDD - free
and as for the case... well here is where the log begins and you get your pictures.
look what I found in the scrap bin!
cartridge pentium 3 processor.
I could fit.... windows on here lol.
stripped out.
got to painting.
Ya... I painted in the dark, outside in the wind, at midnight... it came out pretty splotchy in some places.
yep... second skin. why not?
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this is seriously a good deal. if someone needs hard drives i will trade two 1tb drives for a new motherboard. you could buy me a $100 motherboard and get $200 worth of hard drives. I have the drives and i just dont want to bother selling them.
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I have 250GB, 500GB, 750GB, and 1TB HDDs (take tour pick) I would like to trade for a motherboard and a power supply. Motherboard must be compatible with an intel Ivy bridge xeon 3.4ghz CPU.
hard drives will be shipped in factory bulk packs so they will be quite safe.
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adding on a set of midbass speakers will help with what you want, if you do it correctly. first off, you need two more channels to run the midbass alone. you can get a 3way front stage done with passive crossovers. obviously there are better options but this way will help you. have the midbass speakers crossed over at about 80-200hz. midrange 200-4000 (or as high as those speakers are capable of going) then the tweeter takes the rest. with a combination of passive crossovers and the HPF on your amps, you should be able to get to these cossover points.
just to add, i would still suggest you get better speakers. they will make a difference. but i know, sometimes budgets just wont budge.
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with decent cuts and wood glue, your shouldnt need any sealing on your joints. if there is a gap, i would do what n8 described. its basically home made wood filler. if i have an edge that i am not 200% sure is perfect, ill use silicone or caulk. it wont make a difference what you use here.
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i have to unbolt my motor mounts, remove the windshield wiper assembly, throw a strap around the engine and pull it forward, lay over the engine and feel around for bolts just to change my alt. and ive done it 3 or 4 times now. running wire should be cake compared to that and all the other pain in the ass things i have to do with my car. get on it!
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for the quality that i expect out of RE... that sounds like a rip off. but no. ive never used an RE amp.
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http://mediacdn.shop....pdf?1334033098
i cant fucking believe you guys say it has to be done with a DD1 and then tell him to do it by ear instead of mentioning the method where you use a digital multi meter.
thats one tutorial on how to set your gains. leave bass boost and everything else flat on the HU and on the amp. LPF for the subs at 80hz. HPF on the door speakers set to 80hz-120hz.
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at a shop? $10-15 is what i would imagine
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i never had a problem with the coils on my XLs taking 3k+. even clipping burps, coils looked new. stepped up to a 12k though and the triple joints just let go, they didnt break. same thing happened to my friend on a 12k to two XLs. so i would still limit them to 3500w (ish) just to be safe, but not because of the coils.
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the others are all correct but if you do want to attempt it, digikey.com would be the place to look. buy a few extras because you want to measure resistance of each FET, they will be slightly different and you want to match those all up as best as possible. ideally they should all be the same but you probably wont be that picky.
what kind of soldering tools/experience do you have? i can help if you really want to try, just to try, but i cant help if you dont have the tools.
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what material do you want to use? vinyl needs to be heated up a little bit with a heat gun and it will stretch better. with suede you can take the backing off and that will make it easier to stretch too. get the strongest spray glue you can and on the back of the panel use hot glue or something with a lot of hold.
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Shouldnt make a difference because the head unit voltage isnt affect by the car being off or on.
makes a difference at the amp.
tune it with the car on.
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Like this:
Batt----fuse-------------------fuse----batt
And get the fuses as close to the battery's as possible so you have the least amount of unprotected wire as possible to short out on something and catch on fire. And make sure you fuse to the wire's rating. So if your wire is rated at 300A use a fuse no larger than 300A.
cant believe no one clarified that you fuse both ends of the POSITIVE wire. dont worry about the negative/ground.
I have pos and negative both connected to each other. Am I losing power with long ground?
im assuming you dont actually mean the + and - wires are connected together and you really mean you have runs to the front battery for both + and -.
and the answer is, no. you can easily have less resistance with a - run front to back. copper will have much less resistance than the steel chassis.
sorry but i saw this and wanted to ask when is a Amp Relay / Battery Isolator needed when adding another battery?
you use a relay if you plan on playing your stereo with the car off. then you can always start your car even if you drain the rear battery. as long as you aren't stupid like that though lol you wont need one.
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How about we post pics of what we THINK the OTHER guys look like?
Ill start.
This is sensai.
bullshit, this is a picture of sensai.
see him?
exactly
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i said "decent" not "good". just remember to factor that in your decision.Hmm I think I'd probably choose the Brutus. It's pretty cheap, and a lot of people mention it as a good amp. Thank you for your help everyone!
Well, wouldn't you think it'd be at least a lot better than this POS I have now? Or would there be hardly any difference?
i just dont want you going around saying that I said it was a "good" amp lol. but for the money, its the best. it should be better than what you have.
I dont know why you want to change shit for shit. The Soundstorm http://www.ebay.com/...=item53ed5e7255, is rated in watt 4000 watt @ 1 Ohm. This seller didn´t tell are they max watt or RMS watt, RMS watt are the only intresting watt´s for us. So we try to find out how many real RMS watt´s the Soundstorm out. Biggest help for us is to see how high is the amp fused (see picture three in the auction)? There 3 red fuses if im right there 40 amp fuses, so we have together 120 amp´s. Sorry that i didn´t can tell how exactly the math is threw this term. I know that 1000 watt RMS must be fused with arround 100 amps, so you´r SSL amp put out between 1200-1500 watt´st, exactly this what you searching for. Now you have the amp what you searching for 0 $. For a part of the saved money you can do http://www.stevemead...big-3-tutorial/ the Big 3 in 0/1, gauge if you havent done it till now, it help´s to strength your electrical car system. And if you want you can buy a fine XS-Power batt for more fun.What would the big3 do to help him having a less than substantial amp? Big 3 helps if you have voltage drop...thats it....its not a magical power adder that gets you more rms power from your amp.
BRZ's are not amazing but gets the job done alright....at least their ratings are much more realistic...I would venture to say its still better than the Soundstorm.
Using the fuse rating 40x3 and a perfect world of 14.4volts you get 120amps x 14.4v = 1728watts. Thats in a perfect world...I doubt it puts that much out...my BRZ is fused for 140amps and puts out 1000-1100... maybe lol.
OP save a few bucks more and go with BC2000 Crecendo...or even try and find a used one or used sundown or skar 1500. THere are some more too...just go through the FS secton.
dont know why everyone seems to forget efficiency. for simplicity I just change voltage to 10v. that seems to adjust for efficiency pretty well. so 120a x 10v = 1200w
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i said "decent" not "good". just remember to factor that in your decision.Hmm I think I'd probably choose the Brutus. It's pretty cheap, and a lot of people mention it as a good amp. Thank you for your help everyone!
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could find a used sundown 1500 in your price range. new, hifonics brutus is decent for the money.
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why would the connection matter? it doesnt. its about the quality of the music you put on the device.
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ive heard carpeted boxes lose a tenth on the meter
usually much more than one tenth.
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i think you need to learn what voltages are acceptable. you said the battery looked good but then later said the voltage was 8v indicating a dead battery. if you tried testing voltage of the alt, with the car on, do you know what voltage you should see? it should be between 13.8 and 15v. going over that is damaging to you batteries. going under means the alt isnt charging properly or at all, depending on the number.if you got an accurate reading of 8 volts from your battery that is probably not enough for the computer to operate or any other systems .one way i test an alternator as far as working or not is get it running and carefully disconnect the battery if the engine dies after you disconnect the battery the alt is not charging and the engine and everything was running off the batt
the car wont even start so i can do that, and i thought if i put the meter to pos and neg of alt it would tell if alt is good or not. and i was wondering the same thing, idk what would cause the battery (if thats the case) to just all the sudden go shit on me. maybe a faulty battery?
a DMM isnt any good if you dont know what the numbers mean.
why did the battery go dead? sometimes we, as humans, make mistakes... we forget things. like... turning a dome light off. some people make the mistake of wiring the remote turn on for their amps to a constant 12v source, leaving the amps on 24/7. hook up a charger and see if something in the car turns on indicating that its something you left on. guys, remember its usually the simple answer.
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