lanman31337

Excessive Amperage. Got grounds to the transmission, to the body, and 2 runs to the back battery. Nothing on the header. I would think hooking it up directly to the battery temporarily instead of an ignition source would eliminate anything. I had the initial ignition wire off of the ignition wire from my steering column. If anything, I'd pos and neg 85 and 87, 86 would go to my ignition wire in the steering column, and finally 30 to my regulator. Lemme give that a wirl, but I don't think that's going to change anything.

I know how to wire a relay and appreciate the info, but if I hooked it right up to the battery, i shouldn't have had any problems with anything, which leads me to believe that there's something wrong with the alternator itself.

I was thinking about borrowing one off of someone closer, but thanks for the offer nate. It's the only thing it can be. Like I said, with the MP3 player hooked right in, I get zero noise, car at accessory, car with ignition on, or car running. Unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or else I'd be able to tell right away what the deck is doing. I've been doing this stuff for a mighty long time, and this is the first I've ever seen something like this. Noise while running, noise thru the fuel pump, bad ground from the antenna, I've seen those millions of times, but I've never seen a deck do this.

What's this for? I tried running a wire directly to my battery for the voltage regulator pos and that didn't even help. Now that I have the radio out of the mix, ima see what's going on with the alternator and get it tested. I still think it might be feeding some AC voltage love, not 100 percent sure.

I got to thinking maybe, just maybe it was the grounds, so I metered every single last one out. I did battery to transmission, battery to body connection, and all were reading less than 1/2 ohm. So I checked directly from transmission to body near where I had my connection, .3 ohms. So for giggles I sanded down every single last ground terminal, and where it sits. All clean, ohms still read the same. Beautiful I says. I hooked the radio directly up to the battery, still noise as soon as I turn the ignition on, and get this, if I hook up just the rear RCAs for my rear channel on my amp, I get noise from the front speakers. So it has to be something with the radio backfeeding voltage through the system, (I'm guessing some AC) to cause the static everywhere and the crosstalk. With my radio hooked up to a jump pack, it worked perfectly, however in the jump pack it had nothing to backfeed into except itself.

Time to reply again. I'm going to bet a ham sammich that it is the head unit. With it running, its feeding something thru the system that makes baby jesus cry. All grounds read 1/2 ohm or less, it's not grounds.

So I did some more troubleshooting. With the head unit hooked up to my jump pack, I get no noise at all. I've got a nasty ground gremlin somewhere.

It has everything to do with your question. Unless you have a peltier or something going on, your volts are going to drop slightly once your alternator warms up. Doesn't matter if you have an MLA module, stock alternator, external regulator, or anything else.

With any alternator (I just checked with my stock and my high output) The voltage cold is definitely higher by .3 or .4 volts than it is warm.

It's officially time to retire the head unit. I get noise as soon as the ignition comes on. I hooked up my mp3 player up to the rca's where the head unit would hook up, and no noise whatsoever. Not even white noise. It's ungodly quiet. As far as the alternator, I charred the connector from my cs-130d (header + connector = fail.) So I have some female connectors in it, and it's working. No flickering lights at all. So it's most definitely something with the alt. I hooked up a 14 gauge wire from the regulator right to my rear battery, I still get the flicker and noise. I am going to take a guess and say my rectifier is going, almost like I'm getting AC backfeed.

QFT. High 12's/low 13's for the lose when wanging.

Nate from EA said to try a relay off of the ignition wire. Ima give that a whirl tomorrow. I'll do pos and neg off the battery, then ignition in, and regulator out.

Yeah, that wire needs grounded. GND means ground. POS is positive, and FLD or FIE is field.

My external has field, pos and neg. Neg goes to a good ground of course, field goes to the alternator, and pos goes to ignition.

Since I have an adjustable regulator, I turned it all the way down. It sits at 14.4. Doesn't move more than that. That's warmed up. If I turn it up to 15, it sits at 15. Lights pulsate/radio noise at any and all voltage levels. PStone11 - good call. I'll give that a try when I get home. It could be some ignition noise. I have a fuse block that I ran into the car that has my solenoids for my doors and trunk hooked up, as well as the radio main power. I'll drop a fuse into my spare slot and hook up the regulator into that. And also before anyone asks, I have the radio hooked up to the battery, same with the ground of it as well.

Where do you think it eventually goes? To the battery. IT IS GROUNDED, grounds are not the problem.

What would that do? I have my alternator grounded to bare metal on the body of the car, as well as from the battery the negative connects to one of my transmission bolts, and then to my shock tower. Voltage is good, so it's not a voltage drop.

So here's what I have: 250 amp alternator with external regulator, big 3 done in 1/0. I have the regulator's ground right to the front battery, field of course to the field of the alternator, and ignition underneath my dash to the ignition switch ignition wire. As soon as my car is running, all of my lights pulsate. When I rev it, they pulsate faster. Of course I get tons of noise and it goes faster when I rev it when I have my system hooked up. Bad alternator?

It's clean. Really clean. I am VERY VERY happy with the amp. As far as power, I'm guessing it's going to be damn close to 300 watts x 4 @ 2 ohm. It sounds night and day from my MA Audio amp. Now to fix my EQ's alternator whine...

Got in my 600.4, I'll be installing it this weekend and shooting up a review. It's actually 300x2@2 ohm. I'll keep you posted how the new Optidrive series are.

The only problem I have is if you're going to buy it and in a short while sell it and drop more money into it. I'd wait to buy some better stuff if that was the case.

I had one of them before I bought my Opti 4 channel. It did good, sounded pretty darn good. No complaints except my car would get nice and hot and the amp would be in thermal protect on hot days until it cooled down.

Wire a positive from front to rear battery, and wire a negative from front to rear batteries. Wang and enjoy.

I have an Alphasonik 3 way component set that's got CF cones.

I like lanzar, just not so much on the vibe series, except the Vibe1200D. I can almost bet it's an impedence issue.