Superjay
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Posts posted by Superjay
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Every year at SEMA all the manufacturers have aftermarket modified cars in their booths...Chevy and MOPAR are the top 2, but everyone else is catching up quickly...I can see Steve being invited to build his IS-F for the Lexus booth...MAD sponsorships for that...
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the mod of that section...super mods and admins can delete threads
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with a back battery you'll need to fuse both sides of that front to back run...
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nope...some stuff out there is NOT 0 gauge...but it's as thick as 0 gauge on the outside. Crosssection of wire needs to be 1.1cm diameter.
You misunderstand. That's like saying not all 5000 watt amps put out 5000 watts because those are max ratings, not rated power.
Of course not all are true grade, but obviously I would be referring to true grade. The point you missed is there is no 0 gauge specifically for power and a 0 gauge specifically for ground. Only difference being colors of the jacket
ah, my mistake...you are correct, sir.
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Steve, you're about to get tied in with Lexus. Look forward to dollar cars and manufacturer builds. It is possible they see this as an opportunity to form a partnership with one of the biggest names in car audio.
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if you can afford a tier 1 HU...get it. Pioneer, Alpine, kenwood...those are the tier 1 HU's.
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nope...some stuff out there is NOT 0 gauge...but it's as thick as 0 gauge on the outside. Crosssection of wire needs to be 1.1cm diameter.
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that Pioneer is awesome. If you want nav you can add it on for about $300
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I want to add to the list of amp recommendations- SounDigital makes good stuff. Theyre having a sale on their SD5000 amp. It does 5000 at 12.5 volts and 6500 at 14.4 volts. They're $880 iirc.
I wish I had something more than other peoples' opinions of SounDigital amps. i have ZERO experience with them, but I've heard nothing but good things about them. That's an AWESOME price for 5kW...at that level I'd expect to pay $.50 a watt. less than a grand for 5000 TRUE watts is amazing.
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something other than Power Akoustik...if you want a real 5000w amp look to sundown, stetsom, cactus (lots of $$$), even old Powerbass.
XS batteries
second skin damplifier pro
you can find less expensive wire and still get real 1/0 (knu, hooker, scosche)
make sure you install everything in the right order...and only tear it apart ONCE...do it all at once
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look at Second Skin...less money than the Dynamat, and twice as thick...test after test has proven it to be far superior
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Sony lied...srsly
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the higher the sensitivity the louder it will be
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sure, it's called efficiency. There are a lot of subs that can get plenty loud with low power...it's not magic though
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Since i know you're not going to have a Merry Christmas i thought I'd try to brighten your day a bit...when he finally snaps and beats you half to death, i'll be here waiting for you. <your name here>
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you wanted me to comment on this, so i did.
now i want you to go make me a sandwich.
LMFAO!!!
to answer your original question...you would change the tuned frequency of the port if you lengthened it. If you want a blowthrough to the cabin area make it BIG...like triple the area of the port. it will affect power handling (less power) but will have the desired affect.
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...I bring what I have and share with those who don't have it yet...
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a common misconception is that adding fil to an enclosure will make the sub think the enclosure is larger. This is just not true. adding fil, or foam or glass pads to an enclosure doesn't slow the sound waves. Preventing standing wave distortion means you can run more power to the sub before it physically distorts. The standing waves try to push the diaphragm(cone) in odd directions causing it to run non-linear. No standing waves means the piston will remain linear longer.
@AUDIOTISTICS - a mic won't show you standing waves...you need a laser interferometer for that
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arent standing waves usually only an issue with a square box... and from my understanding isnt that like the #1 rule of building a box... DONT MAKE IT SQUARE?
in a word, no. there are standing waves the run across the front of the cone. Standing waves reflect anywhere they can....they are evil little bastards and there is nothing you can do to keep them from trying to cause physical distortion. All you can do is absorb them or force them to reflect differently.
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and polyfil
polyfil is useless...completely useless. If you want to reduce standing waves inside the enclosure use closed cell foam, open cell foam or acoustic fiberglass (this is a very specific type of fiberglass...not the stuff you get at home depot...try Johns manville)
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I was going to say...my subs only play to 35Hz...my midbass play 51hz with gusto all day long. 51hz is easy for earbuds...if you want it tuned lower make the enclosure larger...probably about .95 for a 40Hz F3
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for a Qtc, you would generally want it to be at about .707 for a "balanced" output between quality and loudness.
.707 is butterworth
there is also, linkwitz riley, chebyshev, bessel and brickwall...multiple ways to tune an enclosure depending on your goals
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F3 is 51Hz on those subs? wow. my midbass are tuned lower than that.
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they do have brazilian channels...you need the international package. your dish will need the receiver head with 3 lobes on it
...I bring what I have and share with those who don't have it yet...
wiring question
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
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positive usually goes from battery to battery. Fuse within 12 inches of EACH battery. If the wire shorts and you only have the front fused the back battery is still hot, and will continue to feed massive amounts of current to the frame.
Ground to the chassis. If you cannot find a spot where the resistance to the front battery is less than 0.4-ohm then run a negative from the front battery also.