Superjay

Canidae....it's about a dollar a pound, but the dogs eat less of it and it's better for them. first 3 ingredients are meat

I spent $4500 on my JET with a full 80x200 downdraft table with an exacta-fence (70" long) and a digital clamp pusher....Built the saw into the wood room at Eclipse, built 3 cars and it was never used again. anything less seems like caveman shit to me. the fence was the most important part...the downdraft table kept EVERYTHING clean...ALWAYS

there's a whole bunch of stupid going on in this thread

he didn't die....he changed his name to Jobe Smith, uploaded himself to the iCloud and is now....... THE LAWNMOWER MAN

now THAT is funny

oh...and she's WAY hotter than casey anthony...I was thinking of calling the Knox chick about a threesome...if she kills my wife at least I got a threesome out of it

don't care...does not affect me in any way...none at all.

T-line enclosures typically taper from large to small at the opening. The taper, regardless of length should end 38% small that the opening.

also, wiring like that will change the crossover points if you are using a passive crossover. raise the impedance, lower the crossover point, lower the impedance, raise the crossover point.

I don't NOT believe in it...I'm more agnostic about it. some things are clearly unexplainable scientifically

The 5000d will run at .5-ohm as long as the voltage is 15v or under. RIGHT AT 15v the amp shuts off. I tested this amp for weeks trying to find the happy point. it seems this amp LOVES low impedance, but only when voltage is at 15 or lower. this is a 1-ohm amp above 15v. it will pull MASSIVE current at .5-ohm...like 700+amps, so expect to blow fuses if you run for more than 20 seconds or so at full output. If you are burping for comps either don't fuse (I hate not fusing but you SPL guys think fuses eat dB's) or use 200A fuses paralleled on each power cable. Don't forget to feed it,either...3 batteries per amp and upgrade your alt.

yeah...I still want that foot. BTW, she got hit by a car. in the head, knocked him straight stupid...then died from brain hemorrhage.

this....I want a foot, please

it even says to look on the street...

most radios CANNOT kick over 4-5 amps on the remote circuit. if they did a fuse would be put inline. MOST can only provide an amp. this is why I always put remote on a relay....always.

you'll never notice damping factor...it doesn't matter. Not ever. and a class D won't ever give you a higher factor than about 40...no matter what the specs say

i call BS, prove me wrong. LMFAO!!! if i still had it or my T500.2 i would measure it. i dont believe it though. About 8 years ago I installed a T10001bt that blew the remote out on 3 different radios (1 Alpine 2 kenwoods) in a day while tuning. I finally decided to check current draw and it was at 4 amps. Put it on a relay, done...never saw it again.

with those speakers you won't notice a difference between classes

i call BS, prove me wrong. LMFAO!!!

Cheap AB is bad...I haven't heard the RE but go LISTEN TO IT before you think you're buying an audiophile grade amplifier. it's not a Series III, I guarantee it...what kind of speakers are you using?

you won't notice the difference....really, you won't. go with what fits your build and budget, and don't worry about specs in this case

MOST amps draw about 0,3-0,5A for the turn on. 10001bd draws about 4A

Kranny, you and I normally agree on stuff...yes, for solid SQ AB wins. but modern class D full range amps sound very good, and most people won't notice a difference...MOST people. As far as efficiency goes...AB amps are most efficient at 80-95% power...running as high as 70%. usually they will be about 40% efficient. For the average joe I'd recommend the full range D just because he can get more power with a smaller footprint and will be just as happy with it.

those are 5x120mm...with a very high positive offset...won't work on your rabbit

x2 While in theory running them next to each other causes noise, in practice (as long as you have decent rcas) you won't have a problem. The couple times I've done it tells me it isn't a huge deal. Or if there is noise, its so minimal that it doesn't even matter. Try and run them separate from each other. Better to be safe than sorry. But if for whatever reason running them separately isn't possible, put them together. Maybe not put all the trim panels back in case you do have noise, but I SERIOUSLY doubt you will. I always run a ground wire from the radio chassis to the amplifiers. I can use the shittiest RCA's and ground points in the car and still won't get noise.