Superjay
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Posts posted by Superjay
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welcome to South America....they love trunk/hatch/bed systems...they pull into parking lots and play them for hours. See whose louder, see what kind of quim they can pull...
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used...or you're looking at Valor or something similar
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liquefy $186,000 and mainline it...that's the cure
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massage, chiropractor, vicodin, beer
massage, chiropractor, vicodin, beer
massage, chiropractor, vicodin, beer
massage, chiropractor, vicodin, beer
massage, chiropractor, vicodin, beer
massage, chiropractor, vicodin, beer
massage, chiropractor, vicodin, beer
massage, chiropractor, vicodin, beer
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you know...if it weren't for that roof crumple I'd say they'd fix it...but that ONE crumple tells me they won't bother. motor mounts broken, radiator busted, headlights done, frame bent....front and rear doors are touching....floor pan buckled...car done
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7-8 layers of matte
then 1/2" of kitty hair flowed through the enclosure.
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are you using AGU (glass) fuses? if so, the solders will fail before the fuse itself...check them.
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the relay takes the signal from the HU and, instead of using it to trigger the amps, it triggers the relay. The relay then passes a higher current signal through to the amps. This takes the strain off the HU. Be sure to fuse the incoming power to the fuse. pin 30 is ALWAYS the output.
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send them to albuquerque...Innovative Audio & Styling is there. I trust them. The owner and installer actually know what the hell they're doing
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it's fine, but for that many amps I'd recommend a relay. most head units only provide 0.4A of current and most amps need 0.28A to turn on.
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why wouldn't the amp run the lights? get a big ass amp that will make 120v at whatever resistance those lights are and it will work just fine...on that note...WTF??? I've been to some pretty bad areas...portales must suck balls
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OP, you're in huntsville? if you want it done right, drive to Florence....go see Steve Cook at Audio X...this guy KNOWS, and will do it right, and for a good price.
if you've ever seen the Crossfire van video where the windshield implodes...that's him.
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that's the dumbest thing I've ever heard....bigger wire means less resistance...which means EASIER to push through.
now, that being said, figure out how many amperes your amp is going to draw at full tilt (lowest voltage it's going to drop to, highest output, figure 60% efficiency) so 1/0 would be fine. you would probably be ok with 2 gauge, but if the amp will take a 1/0 cable....use it.
i had a feeling it was BS, anyway now how do i figure that all out...i know my alt. is 110amps but i do plan on getting something like an xspower2700.
wires of certain size can only handle so much voltage and current (power)... a 4 gauge wire at 14.4 volts will handle 125 amps...period. anything more and the wire will heat up. heat is the enemy of electricity. heat is the byproduct of resistance. each component you add to a circuit (wire, resistor, transistor, inductor, capacitor) creates resistance, that's why things get hot. nothing is 100% efficient. we do our best to keep resistance to a minimum so we get the most out of our equipment, but 100% efficiency isn't even theoretical.
you figure it out using math and the right equations. I will try to find them online and post a link, but I do most of it in my head now. the easiest way to do it is to look at the amp...if it takes a 4 gauge wire, it probably needs it. if it takes a 1/0...again, it probably needs it. fuse to the wire, not the amp. the fuse is there to protect the car, not the amp.
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do yourself a favor...ask questions here...listen to people who have years of experience doing things correctly. if you can't or don't want to do the install yourself then tell the shop exactly how you want it done, and hold them to it. If they don't do it the way you want, MAKE them...meaning, don't pay until it's done correctly. shops that don't do things correctly don't deserve to be in business.
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that's the dumbest thing I've ever heard....bigger wire means less resistance...which means EASIER to push through.
now, that being said, figure out how many amperes your amp is going to draw at full tilt (lowest voltage it's going to drop to, highest output, figure 60% efficiency) so 1/0 would be fine. you would probably be ok with 2 gauge, but if the amp will take a 1/0 cable....use it.
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no such thing as too much power...only not enough knowledge when it comes to listening for distortion and using the volume knob
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blackice flavor for sure
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blackice flavor for sure...
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220 at the min with just one battery.
and I'd add another battery
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Alright, its not my week this week. first, i had the problem figured out last night but my internet wont let me sign on smd, keeps sayin request is bad. Anyway, the battery holddown bar's hooked end broke, idk when, but this caused the battery to shift and hit the hood, shorting out. But somehow, it didnt damage a single wire or fuse, and the battery is resting at 13v so i majorly lucked out. I got the battery secured now, and also i reconfigured the bus bars so they are far safer now.
glad you were able to find the problem, bro...and that it was such an easy fix. Problems like this don't go away on their own, and usually lead to major damage if not remedied right away
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Alum is a better conductor then steel just fyi.
true, and silver is the best conductor, but we're not going to see weldless or seamless aluminum in cars...welds will create more resistance than grounding to aluminum will create benefit. For huge power systems and systems with multiple rear batteries I run both positive and negative to the back...call it overkill, but I also don't have ground potential issues
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there is a steel sleeve welded into the metal. Take a close look and you'll see it.
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why in the world would the body of the car and the strut mount bolt or either of them be aluminum? an all aluminum body would make a very expensive car... and not a very strong strut mount (which has a 1.4 of the whole cars weight being forced up on it...
those threads are welded in. Welds are never great ground points. they always create resistance. always
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you adding the terminals probably dont have anything to do with the problem. but if you did anything with the wires, re check them and make sure all the terminals and bolts are tight. and dont assume anything. physically look at it and pull on it and move it. dont just look and think shit is tight. we all forget stuff.
this is true...even the best of us forget something, or overlook something from time to time...
to the OP...please have this looked at by a fresh pair of eyes....experienced eyes
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valor is a second tier brand. If you're willing to just put anything in there and the bells and whistles are more important than longevity, look at valor, jensen and Dual. Those are the "I gotta have all this stuff, but I'm new to this and don't know any better, but it's only $500 and that's good enough for me" brands. Dual has stepped up from bottom of the barrel to second tier in the past couple years. The biggest difference you'll see are software, GUI and the feel of the buttons. the buttons just feel cheap. Other than that I'm sure you'll be happy with it.