jdmferio13

well Im not sure what people consider alt whine I always assume they here it in there stereo caused by rca's or something other etc.Mine is not that its in the alt it makes a blower sound when its not acting up and im driving at full tilt my voltage is around 14.5 and drops maybe to about 12.9-13.2 which I dont think is bad.I just had the alt installed but im thinking I need a smaller belt and tighten it better.Also would a xs battery up front hold the voltage better say high 13-to low 14 range.sorry about dumb question lol

Ive got a question am i losing alot of power with my setup.I havent done the big 3 alt to batt but all others are done.My batt up front is stock 51 series wet withh a d3100 in the rear.Am i losing alot of voltage

do you think the 1400 and 1600 would be better then the 5100 trying to find better up front batt

cant find info on 1400 and 1600 on site

how much do you charge for new stickers with new info i want one

whats the specs on the 1400 and 1600 are they close in measurments with the 5100

how big of an amp Ive got a crunch gp3k pro

awesome box can you send me a pm on box prices and would you be able to do something similar to this but with interchangeable ports

no the votage doesnt move when the car is on.The alt is not charging at all im getting a batt light in my dash

I have the big3 and what do you mean a better ground from the alt

db interlinc alts

I do also wanna say that it was tested and tested fine.When in the car I unhhok the front batt and the car shuts off still dont know if it could be something else.Im still leaning towards the harness or a fuse but i think the alt is junk

would that be in the fuse box or between the starter and battery

Not sure i said it before but it has been tested and the guy said it was showing 14.3.Is it possible that the alts regulator was shot when i arced and shorted it out.IM going to get a oem alt from a junkyard and gonna see if that works if not i dont know what all gounds should i bee looking at that would be arced or corroded

Well I found out the fuse blew cause i shorted it out fogot to unhook back battery.So back to where I started.The alt is in and seems to be running fine.I had it checked on a macine he said it was fine.So then I installed it hooked up power wire and clipped in side plug, turned it on and its not charging.I dont know

anyone else have a problem with upgrading a ho alt in a civic.

Should I have a 1/0 run straight to the batt instead of fuse bos like the original.I have know other ideas

I just did some research and found out that My original power wire from my alt to batt is fused at 80 amps.I then read that If i leave that and just upgrade my wire and have it directly to the batt it will help cause its fused in the fuse box instead i will just do a 1/0 guage run.But why is it that when i check the terminal on the alt and ground some where with the dmm it only reads 12.1

So I finally got my alt installed in my 98 honda civic.I started the car up and car isnt charging at 14.3 its 12.1.So i checked each batt in rear and under hood and same.I checked all fuses and blew my batt 80 amp fuse.The next day i replaced it and still the same thing what else could it be.

any trades on the q logics.and can they be cut for 6.5 mids

i did pm mechman and he has an ob s975 never looked at those but that should be just as good as the 5100 correct.

how much for the 9887 and how much for premier mids to 17740

you still have this

well i dont need reverse terms mine are on top just like other batts dont know why but just wondering which one will put out more amps and which is better

which one would you guys get im putting it in a honda civic and trying to figure which one the 5100 prob gonna give me more but the d925 cant beat the price