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THEKINGsBACK

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Posts posted by THEKINGsBACK

  1. port area is the width of the port times the height make your port wider and its probably gonna need to be alot longer in order to get the tuning you want so mess around with it some more i'd say 120square inches of port minimum for 2 15's i'd say try making your port 7in wide.

    see thats what i dont get i now have the tuning i want.. but ive been playin with the numbers and it like i cant get the port area about 90.. soo do i need to add to the box or subtract

  2. The difference is when you put multiple subs in a common chamber you can shrink it down some because it's shared space. As a general rule of thumb most 15's work well in 3.5 cubes ported.

    sooo round about 7 cubes and say 112in of port area would make a good box..

  3. is this semi-right for 2 15in re se subs off of 1200 watts

    stats

    gross volume:8.69 cubes

    port volume:.75 cubes

    physical port length: 14.25

    port bends: no

    baffle displacement:0.0 cubes

    port range: 96- 128in

    port area: 60.00in

    port area per foot:7.50in

    net volume: 8.00 cubes

    tuning frequency: 30.73hz

    box dimensions

    21h X 41w X 21d

    port dimensions

    15h X 4w X 15L

    lmk if its ok

  4. ok well with those dimensions and 1.5inches of mdf the net volume is only 6.52ft3 so yea and thats sealed.umm i say 1 inch wood and do the height at 25inches. so then it will be h-25 w-42 d-20 the net volume sealed would be 9.58 did you want a port too?

    yea i was hoping to do it ported to it could really get down on the lows but idk i got a good deal on a re audio sx 18 im looking in to and i know that should fit.. and i wanna try to get it the 8 cubes it wants..

  5. Forgive me if this is dumb. The red protection led came on no my sax 100.4 this morning. I tested the speakers and the right front reads 4.3 ohms the left front reads 5.5 ohms and both bak read 4.2 ohms. I know a speaker short can cause the protection to come on. Is the 5.5 a short or would it read OL on the meter? I the the power, ground, remote, speaker and RCA's and let it sit awhile. I hooked everything back up and it still is in protection. When I turn on the deck the power LED flashed and then it turns to the protection and the power LED goes out. The thing that concerns me is the one speaker at 5.5 ohms, but it is still in protection with all the speakers and RCA's unhooked so now I'm not sure that the one speaker at 5.5 ohms is the bad guy. All the power and ground connections are solid and flowing power. I think that about covers it, let me know if you can think of anything else I can do to try to narrow down the problem.

    The one speaker that is reading 5.5... unhook it from the amp and see if it come out of protect.. and if it does thats the guy ur looking for.. if nt... then continue the process.

  6. ok guys looking do to a budget build since i had to do some extra stuff for college... was going to do 2 level 4 dcs but the moneys not there and audiosavings has a decent deal on 3 REX15D4 subs sooo i was gonna try for 3 of those just wondering is this at all possible with demension 20deep 20 high and 42 wide.. and honest opinion should i even consider doing this.. thanks

  7. Ok not really new to car audio but the battery thing really has me baffled. I know a good battery is necessary for voltage/charge/discharge currently i have a 2001 ford escape big 3 done and running a optima red top up front.stock alt.. and system does decently on volts.. around 12.5 consistent. but im looking to up grade from a sundown 1200 and 2 dc level 3 12s to a sundown 1500 and 2 15s haven't decided yet what brand. also running a kicker 350.4 for mids and highs and im wondering what battery would get me a decent result i guess do i really need the 3100 xs power or is that too much over kill.. i know they have power ratings and the sheet and all but looking for real world experience.. thanks..

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