LordArcane
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Posts posted by LordArcane
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Not a fan of capacitors myself. Even of they do help there are better and cheaper ways to go.
The cheapest electrical upgrade you can do is the big 3. It's usually where you start.
The one here is my favorite big 3 tutorial. Big 3 tutorial
he said it best what the big 3 is go to that link and it will walk you thru it step by step
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300 for just the alternator or alt and battery? also how hard is it to put in one of those alternators, would i need it professionally done?
most alts are 2 bolts main to take it off bolt for power wire and a plug on the back its pretty easy to do if but if you don't feel you can do it yourself prolly best to have someone to do it for you friend that works on cars alot or pro as for price not sure myself i still run stock alt
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you'll prolly want to do the big 3 upgrade also to take advantage of the bigger amp alt
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Alright, planning on a new build once I sell some stuff and get the cash..it will consist of the following. Going in a ext cab colorado.
18" Solo X
Preferably like a rockford 3000 or sundown3000d at 1 ohm.
4x 6x9s with a 100x4 amp. (100rms to each)
Now wut im wondering is what kinda electrical do I need to support this..I already have 0 gauge wiring.
Will a 200 amp alternator and a yellow top as a main and a extra yellow top out back be enuff?
don't forget to do big 3 upgraded
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Oh like i said i know jack shit about electrical stuff. I didnt know if you meant adding another battery could make the volts to high or make it drop more or something. Your working with a newbie. So how do you wire up another battery do you just simply hook one battery up to the other one?
yes + to +, - to - or - to frame - to frame if you have full frame not sub frame sub frame better run both power and ground full to 2nd battery
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I dont know anything about electrical upgrades at all and a couple of people, including a guy at bestbuy told me i should get a capacitor. What does a cap even do? is it even worth it? I have an 06 silverado and Im running 3 12'' jl w3's off a kenwood kac9013d that claims to be putting out 900 rms. My voltage usually drops from just over 14V down to 12 when my bass hits. Would a capacitor help this and how do you even wire them up?
this is how to hook one up. as for if it helps well thats a good question i've heard some say yes and some say no. i have a rf 1 fraud cap but no volt meter so not sure if it helps but i know it holds one hell of alot of power even my small on fused some 4 gauge wire together one day when i was un hooking it and the wires touched :/
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well i won't have the music for awhile. and that amp ^^^^ is kinda pricey. $120 would be okay. http://www.etronics.com/p-81238-crunch-pz1...-enclosure.aspx <<< it's be powering those. 4OHM DVC. it says it can do 800W but i think 600W will do them good.
power acoustik are some very cheap amps and still good amps in my eyes atleast ummm maybe a 2 channel amp might do job, i'll keep eye out for ya if someone else doesn't find one for ya
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yea ima try to make it a 4cft box since each sub needs at least 1cft.. but my transmission is getting rebuilt atm and cant make measurements right now.. all 4 subs are currently in a box with only 2.6cft of air and they sound good. but i know once i make a bigger box they will sound much much better...
i don't know much about the subs you got but i had my 2 10's in 1 cft sealed box was ok then put them in a 1.6cft sealed box and sounded alot better now they going into 2.6 cft ported box and hoping they sound even better, i would say try and do the max cft the subs are rated for if they say max 1cft per sub 4cft box should make them sound really nice, might be better if you could go even bigger? i'm not sure i've always stuck close to what the sub was rated for
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so the 4 cvrs would be louder even if i only had all 4 in a 3cft sealed box?
3cft? wow thats kinda small for 4 12's i would think my 2 10's are ideal in 1.6cft sealed box no sure about your subs but just thinking 2 12 prolly be nice at 2cft? so 4 and 4cft?
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few pictures of my 5 and half month old baby girl playing with daddy's sub box
she been helping daddy on and off the whole time if it was safe for her to be out there with me aka no dust or glue fumes -
i know the openings little small but with them being 10" high i didn't think 1/4" would matter all to much not with 10" subs atleast i was going to make them the full 2" like the main port but woulda messed up my chambers cubes :/ first box so kinda learning yet and testing at same time
anyways this is little pic top view of how the port is between the 2 chambers remember its all 10" high as well
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The port going to each chamber in the back looks kind of small. How many cubes and what are the square inches of the port?
each chamber is 1.3 cubes each opening of chamber to port is 1 3/4" wide 10" high then the main port is 2" wide 10"inches high 13 1/4" long i'll post i 3d rendering of how i designed the port i just hope math is done right lol
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really? no amp like this? come on. there must be one.
you looking for mono amp or 2 channel for the subs?
cuz i got this amp and its little over your price but it has alot of power and is 1 ohm stable and from my experince its a good amp
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14639_...MF2000-1D-.html
EDIT: had to fix link
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almost done back is all screwed on, inside chambers all silconed, just got to make front plate so subs are sunk into the box
few pics of me test fitting one of the subs makering holes to pre drill for sub screws
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little more done
not much long now befor box will be ready to use all rough sanded down and top and bottom screwed in place to make it stronger
all screws per drilled and counter sinked not taking any chances on wood spiltting
inside of chambers silconed to help seal any cracks glue might have missed
glueing back in place
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not sure on finsh yet once i get is all sanded and routered i might to like a bed liner type of coating maybe or carpet i want something that can take a beating since box will be in back of my jeep and i tend to carry chains tools and what ever else family has me put back there
on and i want to put bolts out the back for speaker hook ups not that i will be changing ohm load or nothing just trying to take cheaper route right now on this box i planned on 1/4" bolts what size eyelets (sorry for spelling) would i need to get to go over the bolts? or should i switch to a 5/16" bolt then what eyelet size would i need for those?
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ok box is for 2 alpine type-r 10's 1.3 cubes per chamber ported to 33hz if i did math right box will be 30" wide 14" high and 16.5" deep out of 3/4" mdf
not the best made box in the world but its coming together better then i planned on even tho some of the cuts at off was using very old table saw :/ anyways heres some pictures of it of where its at right now sorry i forgot to take pics befor this point been busy in yard and with kid plus trying to do this all at same time
back of the box
back of box close up on port where is it opens to each chamber
front of the box
front of box close up on port opening
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ok i seen some of this stuff so far and its cool as hell how you can do this stuff so i would like to try it with my jeep
would like to see some 26's on it tint the windows little more and black out the tail lights please and no rush for this when ever you get time
thanks
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I'm sorry, if you don't know what you're talking about please don't try to give advice. I hate to be so brutal but it's one of my pet peeves.
They are single 2 ohm. Just give each one its own channel and don't try and run any other speakers off that channel. Doesn't matter if it's a headunit or an amp, unless the amp is a total piece of shit.
99.99999% of car audio stuff these days is 2 ohm stable.
End rant......
EDIT: Nope, not finished quite yet, jeeeesus LordArcane you don't know what you're talking about.
well sorry i'm not a pro at this i suppose you are? not everyone can be as prefect as you. as far as i knew a 4 channel amp could only run 2 ohms on all channels or 4 ohms on all channels my bad for not knowning that 2 channels could be 2 ohms and 2 channels could be 4 ohms and given the fact he wasn't sure if these speakers are single or duel 2 ohms voice coils atleast she never said for sure in this post what they were besides for saying he thinks they are dual 2 ohms coils. we are all here to learn doesn't mean we got to listen to dick heads that know more i was just trying to help the guy out using what i know. and since not many were trying to help him i'm pretty sure hes greatful for me atleast trying to help.
from now on everyone that needs to ask something just pm boon since hes the pro at this stuff don't bother posting on forum just pm him and he'll tell you 100% just how to do it
god what a dick to be so rude about it
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if they are single 2ohm coils then you would have to run them like this off one 4ohm channel
+ from 4ohm to + on one of the speakers - on that speaker to + of other speaker then - on that speaker back to - from the 4 ohm its series wiring still just useing 2 speakers svc instead of one dvc speaker
and if they are single voice coils then you would need amp for front and rear since i don't know any amps that 2 channels can be 2 ohms and other 2 be 4 ohms
now if they are dual voice coils hopefully they are, would be best thing for you as you could run one 4 channnel amp at 4 ohms hooking the front speakers up as normal and hooking each rear up in series to their own channels on the amp and all the speakers would be getting the right ohms to them but will need to watch out to make sure your not puching to many watts to any one of the speakers as they are running at different ohms makes finding one 4 channel amp having just enough to power all the speakers well with out giving them to much
so really it all depens on those rear speakers if they are dvc or svc
hope this helps
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www.the12volt.com has alot of good stuff on it i found my wiring stuff on there for my jeep you might go their and find what you need not 100% tho since yours is a 09
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i will be getting a 4 channel amp to power everything in about a month, can you guys recommend the right amp for me?
all depens what your looking to spend and who you ask, everyone has their own little brand they little over the others for any given reason but the best question to ask is what are you willing to spend and what are you looking to get out of it?
with you its little more diffcult you got one brand of speaker in back and one brand in front the brand in back handles 2 ohms the brand in front handles 4 ohms so it kinda rough to say what 4 channel to get atleast for me. i myself would go with 2 2channel amp and get them to go with the rms of the front and rear speakers then you know just whats going to each at the ohms they need and the rms they can handle.
as for what brand thats kinda up to you as long as who you get it from has a good warrnity on it then you should be ok
thats what i think anyways i never dealt with something like this where front and rear speakers wear different ohms so not reall sure just trying to give some help advice
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should be able to hook them series as long as they have dual + and - hook ups for them
thats given like you said the head unit is 4ohm
if each speaker only has single hook up then would need amp or wire both speakers in series to one channel from the head unit :/
the fronts should hook up as normal thru the cross-over that comes with them
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it this was true at all then no one with suv with a port box couldn't even roll down their windows cuz it would be doing the same thing as like opening your trunk. free air subs ya might have this problem but if they are in any box sealed ported bandpass shouldn't have any problems at all in a trunk with it open cuz like i said trunk would be like back of suv so opening your trunk would be like rolling down the windows or opening your down in suv while subs are going
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First Box Build
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
still got to make the front board yet but i need someone to help with that with having to cut spot for the port and both subs and get the holes all even i don't trust myself with that yet not till i get a router and make few more boxes
but heres few pics of my putting on the finsh to everthing but the front of the box