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DGold

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Posts posted by DGold

  1. To run at 1 ohm, you will need 2 D1's.

    You could get 2 amps @ 2000 watts RMS now, usually 2000 watts will run you around 200$ so you could get right around your budget.

    From the givin options I'd go with the Audiopipe. They have been clamped in the past and will do rated. You will not havin the perfect electrical and after rise you arent going to see 3k all the time out of any amp here. Remember you get what you pay for.

    Do you intend on upgrading in the future? Most likely. Money was tight for me so I considered this when choosing. It's easy to just grab another 3k amp later, than havin to replace most of the set up. Plus buying a lot of 1/0 wire gets expensive.

  2. I mean this in the best way possible.

    The gain is not a volume knob so what does this have to do with anything, unless you just turned it up. and its actually lower than where it needs to be.

    Chances are you're just going to clip the shit out of those subs if you just turn it up.

    Umm actually i am not. This isnt my first build with these XLs...

    Just making sure, take it easy bud, I wasnt being a smartass. Just wasn't sure why gain position was worth noting.

  3. The Audiopipe may be the way to go then. I will look around a little.

    3000x1 @ 2 ohms means if you had 1 speakers ran at 2 ohms it would receive 3000 watts.

    Since you're running 2 speakers at 2 ohms they will each receive half of that, so 1500 per sub.

    I will look again to verify but I am pretty sure the 3k is just two 1500s strapped internally, or atleast they use to be, so you could run that amp at 1 ohm and get 1500 to each sub. I will check that tho, give me a sec.

  4. Just built a box for a buddy of mine for a single SA 15. We went with 3 cubes internal tuned at 35hz with the port on the drivers side for an Escape.

    Since you're running a little more power, I'd hover closer to around 3 cubes internal. And I just noticed your box specs and they seem to basically agree with what I would do. Maybe someone with a lot more knowledge then me would come in and verify but as far as internal dimensions and tuning goes. You should be good.

    The SA is still able to handle the low notes pretty well. Playing 25hz without a problem on around 750 watts RMS. Check out this thread for a video of it in my friends Aveo. It is the same box.

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/122592-25hz-aveo-door-flex/

    Literally posted at the same time Mr.Cashdollar.

  5. I run my 3500.1d at 1ohm nominal and temporary running my stock alternator with a 6500 and 3100. I drop to low 13s on the low notes. I do normally run my 270 amp Mechman, with virtually no voltage issues. Finding out the amperage of your alternator would be a good start.

    I would definitely recommend 2 good batteries if an alt is out of budget. Maybe Deka or Shuriken. While your voltage may not necessarily be awful, if an alternator fits your budget, by all means do it.

    How much are you able to spend and what is this primarily for?

    Do you demo at idle mostly or are you usually driving around?

    It all factors in for your needs and I am talking the best you could do to support it with no half assing. Not overkill.

    We can then give you the best for your needs.

    Obviously if budget isnt an issue you're going to get a lot of "350+ amp alternator and 3 XS Power 3100" responses Which is ridiculous.

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