Torres
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Posts posted by Torres
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Thanks Torres for the reply. I went to Home Depot and those clamps are like $20 bucks a pop! Too expensive for me since I wont be using them often. So glue first, then predrill then drill each panel at a time? Do I start off gluing the back to the bottom first then the sides or is there a specific order?a jig saw will get the job done. the specs should have the cutout diameter for the sub then use a tape measure/compass to map out the circle. and clamps aren't really expensive, but you do need a drill and some wood glue to keep it assembled
oh wow yeah that's pricey. they have them at harbor freight for much much cheaper. but yeah i'd also start with the bottom piece, then the sides and the port then slap the top on. definitely predrill or you'll be splitting lots of wood
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a jig saw will get the job done. the specs should have the cutout diameter for the sub then use a tape measure/compass to map out the circle. and clamps aren't really expensive, but you do need a drill and some wood glue to keep it assembled
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ah well that's not too too bad. i just finished one for a member on here, and i have another lined up for one of my friends. may try a bandpass with it, she just wants bass back in her car so any bass will be fine for her
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north east kentucky, where at exactly? i'm in ky by cincinnati
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tape off the ipad completely and make a fiberglass mold for it. then make a faceplate for the front of the screen, then glass the mold to the faceplate. make sure it slides in and out easily enough. i also recommend putting a felt type fabric on the inside of the mold to prevent scratches
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I want a DD1, but I live in Germany and I must pay $85 for the shipping
it's worth it
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good deal! i may have to pick up my CC-1 sooner than planned. i'm ok with that
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i'm glad someone else caught that lol
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musically, going below 1 ohm is not necessary or beneficial
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the pic is a rendering of the product. not even a beta model. everyone is so quick for pricing lol. given what the other items can do and the price they're at, i'm sure this will also be affordable.
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sure, it could move air and meter decently, but how does it sound for daily music? as in normal music that's not slowed down or altered
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i'm aware that the knob position doesn't mean anything, but given that you simply turned it down to avoid clipping i was curious as to how you were sure that the signal was correctly matched, as in voltage-wise. say one is at 9.5 volts, then another is at 10.2 volts. you could have turned it down two or three or four times as much and it still wouldn't be clipping. but then chances are they wouldn't be fully matched. but that last part with the CC-1 answered my question if it detects it with the light. i plan on getting the CC-1 eventually, but if i have to set multiple amps before then, i'm going to use a DMM in conjunction to ensure that they are all not clipping, and that the voltage is set the same. basically what i was curious about
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good vid. but one thing i have a question about is when doing more than one amp/channel to match up with, wouldn't you want to use a DMM in conjunction in order to make sure they're fully matched? sure, they're not distorting, but the physical position of the gain may be slightly off causing different readings on a DMM. it may not even be much to matter, but something i've been curious about. i brought it up in another thread a while ago, but never saw a reply about it. and sure, it's just a demonstration of the products themselves, but just asking regardless since i don't have any equipment to try it on myself lol
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i received mine today. quality is really nice on it. neat to see that it was signed too. wasn't quite expecting that
i'm gonna have to find a pouch of fab up some kind of protective case. i wanna keep it protected from all the hazards in my tool bags
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get swype. swype is the shit for texting i love it
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you'll definitely want a plunge router. or a fixed base with a plunge attachment included. i got a ryobi one, but it still does everything i need it to do just fine, and with ease. kinda wanna get a better quality one tho. it's loose and when i go to tighten it after i plunge it in the right depth, it slightly shifts. makes lil divots i guess you could call em in rings when i do em. little sanding fixes that, but still
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Shakira on the other hand would be more understandable
i see what you did there
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Yeah I did one recently and best I could come up with was deadener and then another piece of mdf so it's like a sandwich mdf (the enclosure) deadener and then mdf then I mounted the amp.
i've used this method before. few years back. also used the grommets. both worked well for me. box was also very braced
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About your hat in the dishwasher...would you put you're dishes in the washing machine? I thought the same thing before, but it's different detergent. They have hat shapers that supposedly keep the shape, but they don't work well. My best advice is to do it by hand
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You say it's going to be more than just a box. I'm intrigued
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definitely need more port area. and bigger ports vs more, smaller ports
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~ 2.4 ft^3 ????
close. it's 2.842 cubic feet
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he's joking. i thought it might be a typo and meant 40 hz, but his current box is tuned to 31 hz. please don't try to tune a box to 4 hz lol
and please don't buy a random box and call it a day
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what is xmaxx
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
there's also a sticky thread in one of the subforums with pretty much every audio related term with a definition