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LSN2meBoom916

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Posts posted by LSN2meBoom916

  2. new wheels and tires

    in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!

    Posted

    Dude NICE choice. Good price too.

    I'd have to have em in chrome for my ride but if you look in the system of the month nominiation thread for my car Newcents and I were just discussing 5/6way splits like those (Kapones in my case) but damn near identical other than finish.

    Very Nice pick and like the guys said, cant wait for some b4/after pics.

    props on the rims for sure.

  5. rebuilding my console...

    in Fabrication, Fiberglass, Etc

    Posted

    Awsome thnx for the links.

    I'mma have to start rounding up quite a bit of building supplies when summer gets closer as I gotta put something "new and exciting" in my ride and FINALLY get my ass over that 150db hump.

    The only things I'm sure of are: Painted fiberglass enclosure w/ neon-backlit plexi (slight change), Better Glow effect after neons are off, Motorized amp rack, and it's gonna be much bigger/louder (double the amps from 2 to 4 and some electrical work)

    I have some plans for the LOUDER though. :shiftyph34r:

  7. Has any 1 ever used a epicenter b/c im planning on gettin one shortly

    in Head Units-Processors and Eq's

    Posted

    Are you gonna get an ACTUAL Epicenter? Or maybe a Audio Control Three.1 or Four.1 Or even an Epic-160?

    I have the Epic-160, and I put one in the Lexus I built/posted in the build section and I have to say it is a great piece. Especially if you plan/desire to tune for MAX DB at any point, regardless of it being an A/C mic, and thus -5db or so from a TL mic, it will still allow you to test your system everyday/real time AND/or peak hold, has a built in Voltage meter/display and serves as a bass enhancment processor/unit that adds BASS to songs that otherwise suck balls on Low end.

    Hope that helps and maybe just post a more direct Q about the one you are getting and I or someone else can let you know how they function/install.

    The Epic is simplicity DEFINED: A plug that you hard wire in 3 wires (Pwr, Gnd, Remote) and then RCA's IN and RCA's out. that's it.

    I'm pretty sure all the other units are the same and only vary in how many RCA's you can hook up and I know the Three.1 and Four.1 have more E/Q settings i.e. more bands to tweak than just the sub output.

    Maybe try www.Audiocontrol.com  :watsup:

  8. Gorilla Glue?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    I personally use Elmers/titebond or other wood glue on mdf however when joining PLEXI to mdf I prefer Elmers ULTIMATE Glue or Gorilla Glue and screws.

    The GG and Ultimate glue both EXPAND and fill gaps and are both quite messy if allowed to RUN, but if you have "so-so" tools or experience with them, those types of glue will make up for inconsistent cuts in mdf or other materials by filling gaps and sealing as they dry.

    Liquid nails is alright for sealing and joining parts w/ LOW pressure on them i.e. in attaching the front baffle to a speaker pod but I would not trust Liquid nails (glorified, quick drying silicone) to hold any sub box together or any heavy items in place.

  9. rebuilding my console...

    in Fabrication, Fiberglass, Etc

    Posted

    Very nice.

    That Evercoat FiberTech tube...?

    Self drying/pre mixed? or do you mix it w/ a hardener?

    And the blueish overlay/finishing coat? A Rage variant?

    I have NEVER had any issues w/ structural or finishing glass supllies I use but I have yet to do an all out "perfect finish required" painted glass setup. So just doin my HW.

    Looks very good BTW.

  10. What's the best fasteners for subs in enclosures?

    in Fabrication, Fiberglass, Etc

    Posted

    Hmmm, I'll double check but I'm pretty sure all the actuall "dirty work/build pics" are in the build log as per Steves request for the dirtiest pix avail so the Q's can be answered b4 they're asked.

    As for attaching: I used 3/4" plexi AS the front of the box, and thus It was attached the same way you would attach the front of a box if it were 3/4" mdf: I predrilled it all (both plexi and the mdf it got screwed to) then I put a decent amount of Elmers Ultimate Glue (it expands a lil as it dries & is good for joining PLEXI to just about anything, including MDF), then I countersank the screws in the front of the plexi so i could fill the countersinks later w/ Bondo/body-filler and sand it smooth and in those greyish-blue primer pics the screw holes should be invisible due to this procedure+primering. 

    So: Predrill everything, countersink everything, glue everything w/ good glue, be carefull when drilling plexi AND while screwing screws INTO those holes as it can still crack/chip, get em good and tight, and I like to "seal" the inside of my boxes the same way you might w/ silicone or caulking but I use resin/bondo milkshake on all inside seams to ensure airtight and STRENGTH in the corners. I have never gone all out like Steve and Used his "45's" But in a high SPL application it'd be a good idea. That box I built also has a piece of 3/4" plexi in the center part of the top section of the box that serves as a VERY STRONG brace and still allows light to travel around inside the box. I taped off THAT center peice of plexi about 1.5" from the edge all the way around and left the edge exposed so when I sprayed it w/ primer, & then white paint, the 1.5" gets covered by paint to hide the SCREWS that hit that otherwise clear piece of plexi. Doing so hides the screws that are needed to secure that plexi to the mdf. Then it is "Milkshaked" all around to seal it for reallies, no exceptions.

    Repaint and that's how it looks all seamless inside.

    The lil 1/4" plexi windows in the sides of that box are IN-LAID, as in sunken-in 1/4" and glued in place. Then "Milkshaked" and sanded smooth for a seamless look and primered/painted like the rest. They are mounted from INSIDE so the only force on them is still pushing them into place against the left over 1/2" mdf "flange" they are glued to. No way they gonna budge.

    Hope that helped and wasn't too ridiculously long winded.

  13. Two MT 15's- 600- redbaron80

    in For Sale: Car audio related equipment only

    Posted

    Yea David I know.

    I would love to have them babies even if I had to choke em in "the buttbox" w/ 3ubes each and port it w/ about 100in^2 max of port area-UNTIL I BUILT A PROPER SETUP.  BUT...I'm looking at a DEAL on some Boston G512's...4 of em for less than 600 BNIB so we shall see :watsup:

    If Baron can get em sold b4 i make up my mind, then more power to him. It's great deal for whoever has the $$ and jumps on em 1st.

  17. wiring passenger side front door speaker in a civic

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    Yea.

    After you pull the door panel, reach inside to the edge of the door that meets the body of the car and locate the grommet/accordian looking black rubber boot.

    Dislodge it @ both ends and just thread thru your own wire that way you can take the opportunity to upgrade the speaker wire and get better signal to your mids.

    The "in door" side of the wire goes to the new mid.

    The "in car" end runs back to your amp.

    TA-DA.

  18. What's the best fasteners for subs in enclosures?

    in Fabrication, Fiberglass, Etc

    Posted

    Well, pre-drilling and just using coarse thread, pan head screws works well as long as your woofers have a decent gasket w/ them, otherwise you should cut your own out of rubber/or cork gasket material.

    Look at my box(members section)-thats how I mounted my subs directly to the 3/4" plexi.

    On the pre-drilling you have to go real slowly and pull back/away from the surface so ur sure to extract the material you're shaving out as you go so it doesn't "bunch up" in the hole and cuase so much tension it cracks/chips the plexi. Heating the bit will help too (plastic=melting as you go)

    Otherwise us a a dremmel/rotozip or other HIGH RPM tool that will purely melt the hole you want.

  21. Some RE Audio / Soundstream for my worktruck!

    in Member Rides & Builds -- Show off your whip, Show off your System!

    Posted

    Actually-I bet it is killin em when compared to most streat beaters out there.

    You know what I mean too, you been at it longer than I have so i'm sure you seen your share of "omg bad" setups.

    That "lil" setup shits on at least 1/2 the setups I see tryin to "sideshow" in my P-lot at work.

    Nice gear as usual Steve. I wish I had a 2nd/3rd ride to build a different setup in.

    I think after taxes $$$ come backin, I'm bout to say screw payin off the credit cards and buy me some "big boy" subs for a competitive rebuild this summer.

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