LSN2meBoom916
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Posts posted by LSN2meBoom916
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Hot dogs = lips and hooves
Cooked doggy....I won't go there. nasty.
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Subs def moving and you got a lil flex up front but dude-
TINT THE REAR WINDOW!
I'm afraid fr you after seein that. Thats like an invite to a snatch and run thief tryin to get ur stuff-DESPITE whether or it will come out easily/how heavy it is etc-thieves don't think that far ahead and if they cant get it they may break it and run away leaving you a broken install and missing window :'(
Looks coo, might sound coo, but it looks too exposed for my comfort.
~2cents (u asked for comments)
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So you have your parts all squared then?
If you want pricing/options and what not lemme kno I'm headin to work in a few. I'll look it up anyhoo.
Sounds like you got it under control.
& Sorry I dint get ur mssge till late. I crashed last night and had class this morning till just now.
Lemme kno if u still need anything, or I can help @ all.
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Yo Steve!
1st off, I'm no "master Mechanic" or ASE certified yet (still waiting on test results), but I have worked at AutoZone for lil over 6years and IMO it's the filter, the pump, or both.
Rays right. Change the filter 1st and fuel pump strainer-when you run down to Empty you start to suck all the particulates and metal shards (microscopinc even) and general "crap" that is in all gas good or bad, all that which is normally "settled" on the tank floor gets pulled into the fuel pump strainer which is normally a "pre-filter" small cotton-sock lookin thing (in tank of course) that protects the pump from junk gettin in it. If you run down to E and get ALL that bottom dwelling junk caked up on the outside of the strainer it can block pressure and form a "one way valve" that may settle after the truck is off for a while and sits. then the suction/flow of gas pulls the junk back over the face of the strainer and blocks it hence the "fired right up, ran like it was choking, then died altogether.
Then like RAY said to make sure that THAT was the only problem and not something like the pump just being dead or the fuel pump relay not kickin the pump on, reinstall it all and check pressure at the fuel rail (should be TBI on ur truck) if you still got nothing try the relay 1st (cheaper) then the pump.
If you need the parts/cheaper or just wanna confer bout it/check stock places I work @ The AutoZone @ 9210 Kiefer blvd & Tallyho in Rosemont, near Rancho.
Shop # is 916-364-5917 Ask for Chris.
I'm there MWFSS after 330pm-8pm I'm closing Management.
Happy to help if I can. Good luck bro.
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sounds good.
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I'd say cost wise your best bet is prolly those 2 kenwood monoblocks- I ran those to the 2-Fosgate HX2 15's in that lexus and it humps pretty good despite being trapped in the trunk and those amps are at 2ohm mono each and dont get hot.
If you have more $$ and want/prefer one BIG amp I'd say go with a HIFONICS BXi2006D. 2000watts @1ohm and solidly built from my exp. It would cost about $30-$50 more than the 2 kenwoods (shipped in both cases).
http://cgi.ebay.com/06-HIFONICS-BXi2006D-C...1QQcmdZViewItem
Or if you have more $$ to throw at it maybe a beefier Hifonics yet w/ the HERCULES 2000 watt (rms)
http://cgi.ebay.com/HIFONICS-XX-HERCULES-C...1QQcmdZViewItem
Or if u like Phoenix Gold maybe a couple Octane R15.0:1's...bout $200 each shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/Phoenix-Gold-Octane-R1...1QQcmdZViewItem
Just some options.
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Ernesto-No disrespect here @ all man but here's my point:
I would think he'd want "the most (output), best sound" for his $$, so why not shoot higher than 120db?
You and i know it's very possible given even the equipment listed so far.
So, rather than pointing out how sony xplodes are not as great as some other prods (which I totally agree with) and how 120db on a TL is not that difficult, I just meant "lets all throw our 2cents in" on what PRODUCTS/brands might acheive a 120db or better (the more dbeez the merrier) and then we can come to a consensus maybe? possibly make his decision on how to rebuild based "the SMD pros" rec's.
Coo?
No hatin here man just tryin to help out the SMD folks w/ info/commentary. :^
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Niiiice work dude! :^
As stated b4, It really looks OEM.
If you were going for wild and aftermarket looking, not so good
...Looks quite factory, even the lines are like a OEM piece-I like a theft deterrent interior approach-Untrained eyes-keep moving, trained eyes, congrats homie nice work.~2cents
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After seeing this I put up my '88 shitty mustang hatch install.
I put it in the members showoff/builds section tho cuz i figg'd it's get moved there anyhoo. Hope that's Kosher.
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If you're in Cali esp NORCAL i have one for sale.
It's slanted on both ends (front/rear) and straight on the sides.
3/4" construction w. internal bracing and poly-filled.
30" wide X 14" tall and around 40-45" bottom depth.
Was built for THOSE WOOFERS BY A PRO SHOP. Pounds harder than I ever thought.
Covered in Black vinyl w/ nice stitching and one terminal cup.
Will fit JUST ABOUT ANY SUV nicely.
~2cents
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ok all joking aside man THAT sux sorry to hear bout your loss.
-Lets try to focus on squeezing a 140db outta this scenario rather just sh*t talking brand-x and saying how easy a 120db is.
My rec's: Stay w/ the alpine type R subs- avail on ebay brand new w/ warrenty for around like you paid originally-2 of those in decent ported box should HAMMER well above 120db even on a new TL.
I would say 2 KAC-9152D's would be a step up and stay under $300 shipped for 2 amps (the largest in the Kenwood monoblock line SAME amps I ran in the lexus and mustang and no complaints at all very nice stuff for the $$)
Some 5 1/4" or 6 1/2" components up front avail at a decent price online check ebay especially some good deals all the time thru online stores, or places like sounddomain.com, crutchfield.com & acaraudio.com are good for info and then search a lower price once you find sum u like...the best way to choose mids is to audition them (listen to some in person)-one man's "sound Q" is another man's "trash can farts" so find out what ur into b4 you buy "the best thing out".
I can speak for the kac 8452 as a good 4channel, but any good 75x4 rms-100rms amp would be good for ur mids and Kenwood/hifonics/alpine/Phoenix Gold are sum i'd look into.
Hifonics are a lil more overbuilt than the Kenwoods but will be a lil more $$ too.
Maybe throw some $$ at a nice Stinger audio batt or similar/optima/KINETIK/etc.
Just my 1st impression/ideas- lemme know if you need more details on product matching.
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yea RAY's correct, it's more like a "scratch avoidance thing- like "build it ugly", make it pretty "enough" then "color it" w/ this stuff that's like paint but thick enough to withstand scratches and scuffs and only show the top coat color not all the way thru to the undercoat/primer color.
Still I thought I'd mention it in here and one you pro's would know eithermore about it and elaborate or just add ur exp w/ it. This was my 1st exposeure to it, and I think it will take some "refining" before it replaces my painting routine.
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Optima (most companies follow same color scheme) yellow tops are DEEP cycle, so they are intended for use where you have electrical components that require power for a duration that would drain the battery down. A deep cycle battery can be FULLY or nearly fully discharged and then charged back up and work fine. Optima RED tops are not deep cycle batteries. Thus they are intended for a decent (200-500)amp output in a quick burst to spin the motor and start the car, but then NEED an alternator/generator to immediately start recharging them and keep em "warmed up" in the 13-14.8v range while the cars running (extra voltage coming from alt/generator)12.45-12.6v is the range while car is off. There are always acceptions to those rules of course, cleanliness or terminals/corrosion, ambiant temp, time allowed to recharge off alt/generator b4 car and restart, ALL comes into play.
Red top = Starting
Yello Top = Deep cycle
Blue top = Marine/other/audio use. Some times will be both starting and deep cycle/dual use.
~2cents
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Yea i was actually surprised by how "uniform" the finish was.
I'm helping this lady friend (co -workers sister) w/ an art project and one of her art compadres suggested it for the "build material". She's like "cool I HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO FIBERGLASS!"
<----Hits up this guy w/ an install or 2 (see Lexus/Integra/Mustang/300zx, etc) under his belt.
So I been glassin it up artsy-fartsy stile last couple of nights and it's gettin there. I have no means of pics yet but i will post em once I do. Her art show is Sunday I think and some one should be snappin some pix I told her to get me some decent digi pics 4 you guys so jus be patient they'z comin.
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Thanx for the kudos/props.
I was hesitant to post it and show then jenky doors but it was more a "test run" of the lexus setup than a shot at perfection.
All the issues I had on the 5.0 got remedied in the lexo. score.
Saw Steves post about "old setups" and pics floatin round so i figg'd yall might want some more pics. enjoy... or not.
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Like I said, he dint kno any better and I was running negative on time.
The system is at least 10 times what that ride "deserves" but oh well.
The xovers got yanked completely in the end so imagine the same pod w/ no xovers and thats how it looks now. For some reason those lil cadence x-overs kept burning up/melting at the top end. I swapped him out twice for new ones on the driver side and they burned every time. Only idea might be defective run of x-overs (any body heard anything?) or that speaker's resistence was all whacko (low) and it was pullin more power from amp than it shoulda? Not sure.
No carpet in the ride btw. doors were pretty trashed too and he was "gettin new ones soon" so i dint go crazy on the mid mounting-just simple and replaceable that would git 'er done for the time being.
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Like i said none yet but i will seeing as how there's some/any interest. next weekend i'm thinkin i'll have some pix up. From my use of it it's got MAAAD pontential and does not seem to change the dry time/ mix req's for MEKTp.
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Ok so here's part of the reason that lexus took so long-I had to bang this lil mug out b4 I could get rollin on the lexus I posted a lil while back.
1988 Ford POS Mustang 5.0
Criteria: Cost of labor AND parts about around $1k cuz Homie's a broke mofo. but "gotta have beat"
Kenwood KAC 9152D sub amp
Kenwood KAC 8452 4chann
Alpine CDA 9856 w/ iPod cable
Cadence MMX-5 5 1/4" comp set up front
(ditched the x-overs cuz they are HORRIBLE and burn up)
Cadence momentum series 4" rears
2-Fosgate HX2 12's (dual 4ohm)
Yes this is the exact same setup as that lexus minus 1 sub amp and 12's in stead of 15's and sealed not ported here's the who-ride.
The box+amp rack (both done in light-grey vinyl)
Amp rack
Trim panels installed
The front mids I just threw in 3/4" mdf "pods" in the doors.
The nasty "x-overs on top" was ok cuz he dint kno anybetter and they ended up gettin chucked and ran off amps x over only and sounded better that way anyhoo.
Lemme kno what ya think-& yes i know "bulkmaster" on the pods but he likeded em.
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I have yet to see/hear of anyone using it in "our line of work" (professional or hobby style) but there's a type of DYE that you can add to fiberglass resin to color it all the way thru and theat way no worries bout paint scratching/chipping off a baddass fiberglass setup like Groundpounders or any painted glass.
Its avail from West Marine boat shop/supply (good idea since many boats are FGlass and run into junk in the water getting scratched/dinged up).
I just used some in this art project for a friend of which i have no pics yet but will soon and shall post if anyone's into it.
Essentially save time on the paint/dry steps and maybe $$ too.
A tube that will easily color a gallon of resin is about $10.
I have used white and yellow but i am told there are numerous colors and you can mix/match ur shizzles as you like.
Lemme kno if this sounds worth more info/pics/etc.
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Ouch! (you gotta admit that last one @ Derek was kinda funny)^^^^
maybe this should be a new thread but i'm already HERE)...
Ok- SMD Quote/Shirt options:
#1: "It's fun & games until someone loses an eye...Then it's hilarious too!".
#2: "33hz Club, Wanna cum?
#3: "SMD: The hype is true repeat, THE HYPE IS TRUE!"
#4: "Dont talk about, be about it" Steve Meade 2006
#5: "Got spl?" (SMD)
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Generally I only respond when it happens to me as im pulling into the P-lot @ work so it's after I shut the car off and I can hear them ask it.
I usually just tell the truth.
"Four 12's"
"how many amps?"
"Just one for the subs, one for the mids. 2 total".
Usually ends up in a "yea I do intalls in the summer time hit me up then if u need a setup built"
If it's "in traffic" ....If I don't do the "I CAN'T HEAR YOU" mime routine, I'll say the same as above. No need to play games & they usually give me the thumbs up or a "that sh*t is pounding/moving my mirrors/shakin my car, etc" I'm sure you all hear the same kinda stuff.
I got cussed out by an old guy in a Taurus the other day and I was doin around 140db on my epic-160...he started yellin at me so i put it up to 147db and he just about flipped out..almost rolled into the car in front of him @ the light...he tried to "get away" but i just rolled next to him for a bit,smiled at him & sped off, put it back to 140db and cruised home smiling.
I don't kno what he thought he'd accomplish by yelling "you f*#ing idiot....blah blah blah" drowned out cuz i wasn't trying to hear that.
Like most folks, I only REALLY crank it when I'm tryin to drown out some A-hole on a mission or a douche that's "mean muggin" w/ his stocks blaring @ 100% distortion.
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I'm basically a "self made" installer/box head myself.
No formal training/apprenticeship and no enclosures ever built for a shop (I've done deck+2/deck+4 for a few months @ 1 shop but I quit cuz I wasn't a fan of the owner and I was DYING watching them do "custom work" quite badly.
Just started working on my bro's cars and his friends rides in 7th grade and bough my share of CA&E mags, went crazy in the audio sites reading and gettin edjumacated.
Not to sound like a Broken record or nuthin...but Knowledge IS Power.
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50 cones moving...1.0mm xmax each cone...50mm xmax for the wall...and ur usable freq's(hz) would be silly high.
Rather have some bigger cones w/ usable bass tones.
I'm thinkin of a "crazy 8's setup" after seein that Ray did a 151db w/ AA 8's in an integra like mines.
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A friend of a friend was asking "how does he (me) know about boxes and stereo stuff?"
So i posted this on his mybspace and it seemed to be a good starting point.
If nothing else hit up JL Audio's site (JLaudio.com in any search should find it) and go to the TUTORIAL section it has wiring diagrams, ohms law (the important parts), and how to's on boxes including fiberglass and doorpods etc.
http://www.caraudiohelp.com/custom_car_aud...audio_boxes.htm
http://www.caraudiohelp.com/subwoofer_encl...re_software.htm
http://www.caraudiohelp.com/plans_for_subw..._enclosures.htm
Here's JL's tutorial section lotsa good info esp if u wanna get into fiberglassin.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.ph...php?page_id=127
Just good reading if u really wanna be a box head.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.ph...php?page_id=151
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=27
http://www.ajdesigner.com/speaker/bcb.php
If that doesn't help or is "too hard" to get thru you may just wanna pay a guy like Ray and go have a beer while he pimps ur ride...or maybe drop ur ride off and hitch a ride to work so you can make some $$ to pay for your new install.
Truthfully tho-I have 100 times more respect for someone who builds his setup and has it sound "good" than a guy who pays for the same setup and don't know the difference between a woofer and a tweeter.
~2 more cents.
...Looks quite factory, even the lines are like a OEM piece-I like a theft deterrent interior approach-Untrained eyes-keep moving, trained eyes, congrats homie nice work.
The Hoe is back up and runnin!!!!
in Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
Posted
Glad to hear it's all square again.
I was tryin to explain to my cowerker how if you did come get the pump from us it would STILL be nuts cuz you'd prolly roll the civic ;D.
The most my shop has ever seen/heard/felt is my 4-12's and that "owns" the area (kinda sad I know).