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LSN2meBoom916

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Posts posted by LSN2meBoom916

  1. ONE thing to consider tho!

    Make sure it's a TermLab mic/sensor and all related are parts used in the testing are currently "up to date" equipment. I fyou get your setup metered with Audio Control, Linear X or other older equipment the differnce in readings will be HUGE. As much as +/-10db difference. Ask anyone on this forum that has faced a newer TL mic- it is more accurate but thus/also much harder to score well on unless you have a very loud system.

    And a radio shack/similer brand BOOMstick mic? FOGETABOUTIT! I have had guys tell me "yea i metered my buddies car and it does a 170db on the dash"..I'm like "really what's he runnin?" "oh just 2-12's...kenwood i think"

    -Granted high ##'s are possible off small subs/few subs but only in EXTREME cases. not a slap-in setup in moms civic in the driveway.

  2. well...

    If you change polarity on ONE coil only...on a DVC sub you WILL be changing the way THAT sub is hooked up AND any others hooked to it whether series or parallel.

    If you have 1 sub in the whole system...and you change ALL coils polarity (+/-, -/+) wether it's 1, 2, or even 4 coils, as long as you swap them ALL (as many coils as that sub has) the ohm level will be the same...it may THEN be out of phase w/ other components in the system, but the ohms/resistence will be the same. a 4 ohm coil is a 4ohm coil whether it is wired +pos to pos+ and -neg to -neg or vice versa...it's only when you run woofers TOGETHER and change one or more voice coils, that will chnage the resistance TOTAL at amp.

    Make sense? maybe?

  3. Megalo...?

    You quotin my quote? :D

    Is that a "x2" on the quote?

    or a "can you believe this douche" ?

    I'd take it either way, but i believe in speaking up and seeking answers yourself rather than "keepin it real" and being too cool to look "dumb" when thats really the only way to make any progress. Un-asked Q's dont get answered too often and that = lots of ignorant folks running round quoting "my buddy said"...

  4. AMEN TO THAT!

    I just recently found out a guy who don't know D*ck about audio, let alone cars period (got fired from a hole in the wall auto repair shop) has been sh*t talkin my install. Does he have any trophies? does he have a system/car worth sh*tting on period? NOPE. It's always the guy farthest from the top who's gotta take the shots at the top dogs, then go run and hide.

    KEEP DUMPIN ON EM STEVE! if they got anything to say, invite em to a front row seat and if they even have the balls to show up, they will clam up quick! If not from ebarrassment, then from loss of breath!..and maybe their eyes will pop out who knows. :o

  5. I'm not tryin to be a d**k here but my comment meant anything LESS than 20mm xmax...if ur's ar 20.5mm then that's A-O-K! Arsenals are keepers in my book for that reason and many more. But again my comment meant anything w/ less than 20mm xmax (one way) would not be worth the $600.

    Nice choice on the Arsenals: I would have a set of 4 Ascendent 12's if i dint already have my 4-12's for my rebuild.

  6. You guys are pretty much there!

    Phase IS talking about how the subs (or any speaker for that matter) is/are wired.

    Why it's important-

    1: when you want your mids to play together (and thus louder) they should both be pushing in and out at the same time on bass notes even if it's midbass/midrange Hz.

    Also-for the correct "stage" or "imaging" like if you have a track that fades left to right or front to rear etc. If your mids are out of phase (one wired +pos to +pos from amp and -neg to -neg from amp, and the other flipped +pos to neg from amp and -neg to +pos from amp) they will be working AGAINST each other, not only sound funny but be less loud.

    2: Same goes for subs-especially imortant since we all need face smashing bass or as much as we can get-phase is important.

    An out of phase sub will work AGAINST a sub wired in phase they will be "180 degrees" out of phase (exact opposites) and likely cancellation will occur=bad.

    THIS happens a lot in setups where more than one sub is used and only one or SOME of the subs are inverted because one sub is pushing forward (cone out of basket and away from box), while another INVERTED is pushing forward (cone out of basket INTO box) and instead of compressing the air in the box it's actually just equallizing it -one woofer cone pushed in (-1) and one pushed out (+1)..-1+1=0..zero bass is no fun (this is assuming it's common airspace not divided for each woofer).

    I've never had any issues since i either run all inverted or all standard mounting, and I'd venture to say as long as you wire it reversed for an inverted sub along w/ your regularly wired standard mounted subs OR VICE VERSA you shouldn't need to use the phase button...So really i dont know why that button is there unless its for lazy bastards who dont wanna re-wire anything after they screw up the pos/neg on a set of spealers/subs...and ALL the signal would be effected by one deck button so i dont understand for sure what good that would do either...unless it were subs in relation to mids being out of phase and you needed to sync the 2 systems?

    Thats as much of an explaination as I can give right now since I should eb awirting a damn midterm paper... if I'm wrong on any of that I'm sure some O.G. member will flame me down into my rightfull noob place and correct it.

    ~My 2 cents hope that helped. 

  7. Hmmmm...interesting. I am kinda sold on the "ridiculuos number of woofers" if for nothing else the shock factor (yea yea) so maybe I'll go with 8-8's just to even up the amp load (cuz i'm anal maybe? or a nerd, i dunno) or scrap that and do 3 rows of 3 subs. Once I get busy on the design of the system I'm prolly gonna be in ur ear and all the port guys a lot w/ port Q's since i've ony done a few ported setups and when i did it was based on manufact. specs.

    Thanx a tonn for the input RAY- and either I will be lazy bastard and take ur advice (maybe even shoot ya some $$ for the design for that garaunteed bang out the box..yes puns a planty here) or do what I usually do and spend way too long on it till it's perfect in my mind w/out any/much help.

    In either case i have 2 PG Tantrum 1200.1's and 2 PG T600.4's for the rebuild.

    Currently ONE of each is pushing my setup now and w/ the exception of the TL mic ##'s its a perfect daily setup...Just tryin to catch you guys w/ ur 150+ and walls of 18's gets me drooling over a nice hairtrick and a big ##.

    thanx again,

    End rant 4 now.

  8. Ray I had a Q. or few about those 6-AA8's in the integra:

    Did you use the AA specs on a ported box design and multiply by 6 or use other airspace/port specs?

    If you used your own...care to share? I was considering using my whole trunk (97integra) and throwing a bunch of AA 8's in there either sealed or ported-unsure yet and give em about 100-150rms each.

    And finally-I was actually debating 12-8's sealed versus 6-9 ported. you think the fewer ported subs an out-do the sealed setup (in an integra facing rear in both cases).

    I hope thats not too much of an annoying "how many dbeeeez" type Q. My rebuild/s still a while away and i just thought i'd hit u up for ideas while the site is still goin strong.

    BTW ur builds are great. I love what you did on that chevy truck/cut thru. Incred. work i hope someday to reach that level.

  9. Howdy all,

    I know I'm late but I thought I might throw my 2cents in on this one in case there are locals in here i'm not aware of.

    My Name is Chris Johnson, I'm 25yo and I live in Sactown Ca.

    I work/asst.manage an an autoparts store Called AutoZone (Kinda like Kragen/Pep Boys/ Checkers, etc)

    I have been into mobile audio since my older brother got his 1st car and I did the install in it (I was 13yo)...it was 2-12's ported thru a cut rear deck, 3 Soundstream Ref500's and 2 old RF punch 200x2's...stock electrical. Game over.lesson learned.

    I have been doing any car/setup/build i can get my hands on ever since. Total to date is around 15 actual "builds" and numerous "street beat" hookups.

    I have posted on this site: a 1993 Lexus SC300, a 1991 Nissan 300zx, and a link to my own 1997 Acura Integra. I'll post builds as I can for help/advice/opinion.

    I Have been competing w/ my car for a few yrs..12 Trophies since 2004 when I first had the PRIVILAGE of having my ASS HANDED TO ME by Mr. Meade & his Civic w/ the 2 RF 18's at an Extreme Autofest down @ Infineon Raceway in Sonoma. I was happy I still took a 3rd, and repeated a few times there w/ same results.

    Steve is a great guy from every encounter I have had w/ him and not your typical Ego-maniac/douche/brand whore/arrogant Car audio enthusiast. Too many times i've run into THOSE types at comps/car shows and it gets old real quick.

    I searched for site after I saw the SMD logo on the intro to a clip on ROE under RE audio sub vids.

    This site is great and hope it grows and stays awsome.

  10. I'm with Steve as far as that being a RETARDED RULE...GRANTED: You could use a modded CD, he's right your system still has to hang w/ that kind of track material and not TEAR ITSELF APART. IMO, it's an "I built it" thing concerning the installers' knowledge of physics and what it takes to sustain that kind of energy transfer for the 30sec-2minutes w/out anhiliating your equipment (i.e. enough electical back up/support to pull a "180db" AVERAGE not burp and not overheat/melt/torch products) regardless of track material. It's like saying My modded cd is unfair if it makes my 1-12" sub in a well built setup score better than 2-12's in a poorly built setup or poorly designed install. It's more likely to be a function of my knowledge of woofer tolerances, box design, product matching and "how pressurizing a cabin" and providing ample current to my electrical components w/ out roasting them.

    It seems kinda like FIREARMS LAW.

    Outlaw the "bad guns" idea. makes no sense.

    End rant...for now.

  11. Wow nice flex!

    That's the first time time i seen your setup...it's so wierd how u recognized mine.

    W/e. I guess I do be doin hella "demos" in the p-lot at the zone and the occasional soundoff appearence but I swear I NEVER seen your ride b4.

    I guess you're WHITE TOO!?!? I was guessing from ur avatar you were black...and that made me think I maybe new who you were based on folks i kno..but now i have no idea.

    Anyhoo...my MOM has an astro yo! I wish i could wall it off like that but she'd murder me.

    I think next summer i'mma hide 4-8's and a "switch-over" aftermarket deck in it for trips to the yay for klubbin ;-)

    Good luck on pullin better ##'s with it-maybe make the doors a lil more solid? and dynamatt as much as possible so you don't lose pressure to flexin?

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