Jump to content

LSN2meBoom916

Members
  • Posts

    3180
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by LSN2meBoom916

  1. Hmmm...ok.

    well unless I'm just totally misunderstanding what exactly ur asking...you wanna know why you can SEE the VC through those vent holes?

    If THAT's the Q then the answer is easy...its simply because the designer chose to put holes there so air could flow in and out as the speaker moved and that would provide air cooling for the VC.

    If there's some other Q here i guess just try askin it again, and I'll try to answer/better, it if I can, if I havn't already...you tell me.

    I think we're on diff pages for some reason.

    :blink:

  2. so is this why i can see about a inch and a half of voice coil sticking above the face of the motor on my brothers c.v vmax 15?

    his speaker also has dual spiders. i hear this improves sq at high excursion rates it keeps the voice coil nice and straight in the motor and keeps the voice coil from hitting the magnet. the spiders are offset so at + stroke the bottom one is straight and at - stroke the top on is straight this is at the +- stroke extremes.

    Hmmmm....

    You can see the voice coil?...are you missing a dustcap perhaps?

    Is it the older Vmax w/ the red surrounds and pulp (i think) cone? or the newer ones w/ the aluminum cone?

    I don't see in EITHER case how you could see the VC sticking up...? and..."above the face of the motor"....huh? You shouldn't be able to see that either....the face of the motor should be hidden by the spider/s, which would be covered by the cone which attaches to it at the center, and then that is topped off w/ the dust cap if there is one...

    So hmmmm....you got me buddy.

    Pix?

  3. thanks for clearing that up.

    ive already learned so much just by browsing these forums.

    Np.

    Welcome to the good forum. (smd)

    Also just an aside...

    "Xmax is defined as the width of the voice coil that extends beyond the front plate plus 15% (See Diagram 2). This relates to how far the speaker can move in either direction without appreciable distortion."

    From:

    http://www.xtant.com/archives/html/techSupport/speakers.cfm

  4. xmax is peak to peak measurement. max + and max - movement. so your speaker moves 16.1 mm from the maximum- to the maximum + without damage

    so safely your speaker moves 0.6 of an inch just above half an inch

    please do correct me if im wrong. this is my understanding

    You're partially right.

    Although this term is used "loosely" among many companys it's a lot like "real wattage" ratings.

    Everyone is gonna give the figure that makes them look the best.

    Some companies (the good ones) give their xmax rating in terms of "One way, linear" meaning the most USABLE excursion you can get out of a given sub before it starts moving NON-linearly (sideways or askew/at angle).

    Non linear or NOT straight in and out means the cone is moving in a way that will possibly permit its Voice coil to contact the inside of the magnet and short out or burn the coil (I'm sure there's a name for this area around where the voice coil resides... I wanna say shorting ring or maybe considered part of the gap? I'll have to look it up and edit this later).

    If the sub moves NON linearly (sideways or askew) enough to make contact with that part while the Voice coil is energized...=all bad. Blown sub.

    So yes it's how much the sub will move, and yes some companies give thier "peak to peak" measurement and others give it as "one way linear" (which means it's really twice the number they give..if ur accounting for positive+ stroke and negative- stroke)

    EDIT*

    I looked around and I guess I was right the 1st time :blush:

    The area in which the voice coil resides is referred to as "the air gap"..on more than one site I was reading...including:

    http://www.cyberus.ca/~ec091357/TheVoiceCoilAndMagnet.shtml

    Some good info here too

    http://www.angelfire.com/ultra2/london/

  5. I mostly see people use sealed boxes if they have little room and dont care about looking to get loud. In my friends Explore he had a small sealed box that he had metered a 139 on the ac with 2 15" CVR's. I had built him a good ported box, 4 cubes each sub and he did a 147.3 after that. Was a huge difference.

    I ran 2 CVR 15's-sealed, then changed to 4 CVR 12's sealed. 146.3 TL windows down 1/2way, mic in the kick is my best burp to date.

    It COULD be louder but at what expense? SQ?...prolly. AIRSPACE? for SURE.

    I will be trying some ported boxes in my next builds But I will also put the same subs (not cvr's) in sealed setups and choose my preference. I have always "had enough output" from my sealed setups and I'm kinda partial to nice tight bass rather than sloppier ported or bandpass designs (from what I've heard and built) but I have a feeling unless I can get the same tightness out of a MUCH louder ported setup, it would not be worth the change.

  6. I get nast looks, heads shaking "no no no", get flipped off, cut off, brake checked, windows down w/ irrate soccor moms/old folks/ random douches....all the time...as long as my musics on...the hating is in effect.

    Your kind, when someone hates on the hummer I roll all windows down and give the 18,000 watt burp till it turns green. LOL

    I am pretty considerate I think...I always lower volume at lights or put the knob at minimum and leave the mids loud and bass "lessened" (not quiet but MUCH less than full tilt)

    If they start out hating on me I give em the "I can't hear you" and I turn it up and then kinda look back like "aren't you glad you were bitchin about how loud it WAS?" :P

    Or just laugh, point at them, and smile. :D

  7. DO NOT use hot glue.....anywhere .............where it will come in contact with the resin....

    use CA................just so happens...i sell ca glue... :D

    Not to hate on the master hisself or nuthin....but why not use hot glue?

    I used it on my pods to mount the rings and dowels and it worked perfectly.

    I have heard that spray adhesive will re-liquify when resin hits it and w/ever it's holding will let go...but I have beeeen doing it that way and not had any issues with the 3m 70 or 77 either...so.....

    I dunno.

    I REALLY wanna try some CA Glue just to see the diff but I dunno.... if it's just "a luxury"...I generally get by just fine making things as hard on myself (haha hard on) as possible (one power outlet, mediocre tools, ZERO work space, etc) but I kinda pride myself on being able to get er done that way,and if I ever CAN aford/have the luxury I guess I couldnt turn it down.

  8. thanks chris, believe me though, even though your not that big, your still a grown man and there isnt room for me and my son let alone me and you :D

    Plus, its hot in there and i dont need to smell your stank bref' that close (and you dont want to smell minez neither lol)

    thanks though....oh and come by ANYTIME just holla!!

    pm me if u lost my ###

    HAHAHHAHAHA

    That close quarters eh?

    In that case...

    I SHALL pass then. :P

    As cool of cats as we both are...the no homo rule still applies.

    Sorry Chicken.

    Soon as the semesters DONE http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif I'm def gonna stop by and get my ears raped...3 times if possible...

    1st:Civic (never heard it)

    2nd: The Hoe (Its been a while and the new subs..on a warm day w/ windows down I gotta hear)

    3rd: If I aint deaf yet...da Hoopty. :blink:

    I will bring a couple extra sets of drawls.

  9. Poor lil noob/Redshirt.

    (If you ever go to an autozone look for someone in a GREY shirt..they are management...no garauntee they are not dumb as shit either..thats case by case as with anyone in life, but at least try to start at the top)

    Thats hella funny, because thats the Autozone I go to, hella close to me, and that black dude, dont know his name, but he is cool as hell, gives me a pound everytime I go in there- But true, the turnover rate at THIS autozone is incredibleI thought when they were looking at the meter, you would just let it slammmmm

    That's A HUGE problem at 99% of stores like this (Kragen/Pep Boys/AutoZone..and I'd assume Checker/Advance/etc)...on top of the fact that they continually "dumb down" the system so dumber and dumber "kids" can get hired on as "cashier jockies" that really have no place in an autoparts store, as well as moving farther and farther away from any form of IN HOUSE training.

    If you have a Stupid store manager...all your red shirts (base pay bottom-dwellers) will be "taught" some pretty bad habits, if they teach them anything at all.

    is that the one chris works at? if so, someone needs to get some teaching going on in there.

    No sir.

    Trust me bro, I would NOT let this kind of thing happen at my shop. Period.

    nahhh differrent hood., the one chris works at is ALLLLLLL the WAY crosssss town.lol

    Correct..in more ways than one.

    not sure if you guys caught this or not, but watch the vid again and watch for him to hook anything up after he hooks up the battery leads, the amp probe never leaves the machine. kinda hard to see what they are putting out w/o a probe to take a damn reading lol

    Correct.

    That machine Is designed to hook to the pos+ and neg- terminal posts AND have the AMP PROBE/CLAMP on the power wire coming off the battery.

    It will read rpm, Voltage, Regulator Voltage, amp flow/draw be it positive or negative, and tell you if any DIODEs are faulty (diode pattern good/bad...but gives no cause)

    The Bald black guy should have noticed the not hooked up amp clamp, as well as done a visual of the "too many gawd damn alternators" before he ever even tried the test.

  10. also youve seen my "frame".......that gap is exactly 16" wide. Its not easy for me to even climb in there let alone mount subs and 64 screws (64 chances to put a bit thru the surround too :D )

    Dude Imma micro-person. (5'5'' 135lbs)

    If chicken really wants it done, hit me up...I could literally crawl inside the box, hold them 18's up by the motor and you could screw/bolt em in.

    Not to mention do all the wiring from inside the box...long as you trust me :P

    The only only "hard" one would be the last one, but again I bet I fit between the walls better.

    Glad them subs are breakin in.

    Once semester's over I need a summers day demo with the windows down...the Hoopty too :blush: *drool*

  11. Timmay GP2K2 Beat me to it.

    do NOT bondo windows, get some sheet metal and borrow a welder if ya have to

    :wacko::wacko:

    Ya Think.................

    :lol::lol::lol::lol:

    O lawd.

    Did you SERIOUSLY bondo your whole window?!?!?!?! hahahahah what happened?? man thats pretty funny, worth someones sig

    X2.

    You live you learn.

    I was instructed by some people I know who have done very good body work in the past, and I never had. I'm not a know it all. I can do some cool shit, but I am the first to admit Im not perfect and I dont know everything, but I will try and learn from my mistakes

    ANYone who tells you that THAT is kosher....is NOT your friend...and prolly does jenky-ass body work.

    how about yours. next time i need advice, Ill ask one of you smart guys.

    the pics arent enough evidence to support my statement that yes i did in fact bondo the WHOLE windo and not just part of it?

    This Forum does actually have quite a few knowledgable folks..esp in the Fabrication/Fiberglass dept.

    Grounpounder2k2, EpicenterDesigns, RAY, Coogle....and a few others = some PROs, that KNOW what's up and can vouch for OTHERS who might claim to know something.

    Welcome to SMD.

    ~Chris

×
×
  • Create New...