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Posts posted by Hunters21w
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So I'm assuming 1900w rms system? First of all, you won't need a battery isolater. You can either check the fitment guide on XS Power or just measure your current underhood battery and get a battery with the same, or smaller dimensions.
Keep in mind, you cannot use an XP model battery for underhood purposes. You will need a D or S model. The D and S is the same thing, with a different label.
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iirc jacob said they aren't an upgrade from the v3 as far as numbers goesI would personally get the zv4 if time isn't an issue. They're def an upgrade to the v3.
I was mainly referring to the additional xmax, that will help for music purposes. Obviously a lower FS won't help for high frequency burps. However, he can build recones that can be geared toward that.
It's just an overall better design, period.
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Nice, that make soldering leads on recones easy as hell. Nothing like trying to squeeze your hands into a Ti basket lol.
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If you can power a v3, you can power a v4. 1.25" difference isn't too bad. You can't clear that extra depth?
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I'm pretty sure the basket makes it an inch or less deeper. Don't quote me though. I'm sure Jacob will get back to you on Caco.
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I would say very similar to the v3, I doubt you would need to modify your box.
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I would personally get the zv4 if time isn't an issue. They're def an upgrade to the v3.
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That's my thought as well.
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Quick question though, lets say you have 1 battery you want to fully charge as fast as possible. You put it on 25a, but it is only charging it at 10a. Would it charge any quicker than just dropping it down to 15a?
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Yes sir.^^
I'd compare the 9k to my Crossfire 8k. You could get away with 3 3100s and a nice underhood batt such as a 3400 and obviously a HO alt. Anything above that can only help.
Good luck.
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Does it really matter? Whenever I put a single batt on it never charges at 15a anyways. It's usually less than 10a. The intellicharger lowers the amperage depending on how much of a charge the battery needs. You'll notice when you turn it on.
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Idk how you made it this long bro. I'm a real chill person 99.9% of the time too, but if I read half the shit people say online about me I'd get pretty pissed too. Some people just can't fathom the work and dedication it takes to do what we do. Most people don't have a single thing in their possession that they can say they built from the ground up.
Keep your head up!
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I have a pretty good feeling he got away.
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X2
How do you think the 1200 will handle .5? I understand it voids warranty.
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guys, just to let you know, i don't think even user error plus DD-1 equals amp failure. The DD-1 is COMPLETELY out of the equation. It is not physically doing any damage. If someone uses a scope, or DD-1, or DMM to set his gains, it is still up to him to have a proper setup to begin with and its always nice to have a reliable product too. I know a few brands that i have seen smoke over and over again over the years and it has NOTHING to do with whether the gain input was matched to the deck output properly. It has to do with reliability of the brand and the user. Its almost like blaming the screw driver for an amp blowing because you turned the gain up a little.
I can't think of any way, even if i did it on PURPOSE, how a DD-1 can blow an amp up. Is it possible to stick the probe in the speaker terminal and bend it in a 180, and still reach the case of the amp? I mean if someone did that, i still don't see how its the DD-1's fault.
If touching the probes in the most dangerous way possible on the amp cannot blow it. Then I would have to agree.
I stated in the thread on Caco:
In reality I would put just about anything on the fact there is an error somewhere else in the equation. Whether it be a bad signal from Rcas/HU, bad ground, or just plain old not enough electrical.
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I believe his final conclusions were that it was probably the improper use of the dd-1 that caused the amp to fail.
Also, he wasn't saying he would not warranty an amp if the dd-1 was used on it. He just said if the amp blew from user errors via the dd-1 or anything, it is not warrantable.
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Curious if i bought an xs power for my trunk would i need a isolator? I am currently running a kinetic 1800 up front..
No need for an isolater, they will be just fine. However down the line it may be a good idea to match batteries as different AGM batts have different resting voltages.
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and the d7500 is supposed to hold 7500w lol
who said that?
XS power, hence the model number. The 3100 is 5k. Obviously those are not real world numbers.
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I would start with 2 d7500s and a stock upgraded batt. And see what voltage does
Agreed!
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damn that was FAST! and you got a 370? NICE! congrats! Mechman FTW!
Hell yea it was fast! I believe this is just an underrated 340 lol. I'm sure their 370s are more like 400a's
Thanks guys, like others said this months was more luck than anything. Steve gives everyone a great opportunity to win, small or big.
Also Derek any alt that's externally regulated can use this.
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No problem man, it was the least I could do! Thanks again Mechman, I appreciate it
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Thanks man I appreciate it
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Christmas all over again!
Thanks to SMD's System of the Month and Matt @ Mechman I received some awesome products
Mechman comes through once again, within a week their products are built, tested and at my front door!
What could this be!?
Talk about secure packaging!
Hmmm blue??
Woah that's what I'm talkin about!
Big alternator??
Yea nothing like a 340a alt clamping a killer 369 amps! Wow
What a beauty!
Blue box aka external regulator!
Beast combo!
So stoked to add this to my other great Mechman alts!
Thanks again Steve and everyone over at Mechman
SMD VM-1 vs. XS Power VCM Digital Read Out on 30,000 watt voltage drop
in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
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Is there no sound or is it just me?
Interesting concept though!