snafu
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Posts posted by snafu
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This topic has been locked as we are currently pursuing resolution.
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Hmmm . . . . I'm loving this. Definitely brings back the memories when Astro vans ruled. I've seen LOTS of variations over the years - (9) 18s, (10) 18s, (12) 18s, (12) 15s, (16) 15s, (18) 15s, etc. The (16) 15 and (18) 15 installs stand out. At one time, Greg Cobbs had (96) 10s in his Astro before converting it to a dB drag van. I never heard it then, but rumor has it that it moved a ton of air.
I also remember a van that Chris Lewis built back in the day that they called the "pipe organ van". It had a bunch of 15s (16?) loaded into Sonotube and was rumored to do in the 140s at 10 Hz. Keep in mind, this was in the '90s.
I say, build it like you want and screw the meter. But, that's just me . . .
Now, it may be time for me to hit up CL and find a clean t-top IROC-Z so I can build something to park alongside it . . .
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You done with lunch yet or what?
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Well, at SMD you don't have to look very far! Mechman can fulfill your alternator needs, XS Power your battery needs, and CE Auto Electric Supply your Big 3 and cable needs - just click on the respective banners or visit the individual forums for more info!
CLICK to see our Big 3 Kits.
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3/0 AWG for a 120 amp alternator? What am I missing?
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I have one of the XS Power AGM chargers . . . it ROCKS. I'm sure that other members will echo that.
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Good stuff indeed. Hard to argue with your picks.
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(they had no tuner built in).
They sold for upwards of $1,000.00
Processing was confined to Bass and Treble controls.
All of these units skipped at even a hint of vibration.
I know Im young and all.. but youre making me feel like an infant lol
Hey, before those, we rolled with cassette! Recorded it with Dolby ON, played it back with Dolby OFF!
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Generally speaking, I have had tremendous success with the Pioneer units. I replaced my RFX-9420 with a DEH-700BT a few years ago and have never looked back. For a single DIN radio with simple iPod control and excellent Bluetooth, I have been extremely happy. This deck looks to build on that platform and has a bunch of features that we could only dream about just a few short years ago.
To put that price in perspective, the first DIN sized car CD players were just that - CD players (they had no tuner built in). They sold for upwards of $1,000.00 and were super difficult to install. The first AM/FM/CD players introduced (like the Sony CDRX7 and the Alpine 7900), had TWO outboard modules that you had to find some place to locate! Processing was confined to Bass and Treble controls. All of these units skipped at even a hint of vibration.
My how technology has changed.
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VERY unique! I don't think I've ever seen anything quite like that.
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Ram, best of luck to you in your venture. Yes, members are correct - if you intend to offer anything at all for sale, you need to be an SMD Partner to do so.
Thank you for respecting the rules of our community.
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Yes, this has been done numerous times.
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Good stuff Matt. Mechman = value add. And, that's why they're our partner.
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So, would any of you guys be interested in one of my new "Add-A-Battery" kits? If so, check out post # 28 in this thread: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/138222-proposed-add-a-battery-kit/page__st__20
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Steve,
It's the little touches that matter in a build like this. For example, I really like the way that you ran the cables up to the 3sixty and were able to use the factory trim pieces to give that a totally stock look. Nicely done. This is the only build I've seen since I finished mine 8 years ago that makes me want to finish some of the other parts of the install that were left undone - the underside of the trunk lid and the lighting there and in the front doors . . . all pre-wired.
Now don't give me no crap about "I ain't drivin' it to Phoenix for no road trip." I'm thinkin' we need to take it to Tortilla Flats and see if we can't get the hook-up on a few Monster Energy drinks . . .
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Keep me in mind if I can make or supply anything for this project. Visit my web site and you'll find all kinds of difficult to find components (just click on the banner in my sig).
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You may also find this read interesting. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/14953-rockford-t15k-the-proto-pics-and-short-story-more-pics/
Looking at those pics now . . . what a blast from the past!
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PPI did the same thing with their Art series of amplifiers back in the day. Liquid cooling was an option. I was the Bazooka rep in Texas when they released the triangle woofers, NOS bottle subwoofer, and liquid cooled amplifiers. All seemed like really great ideas at CES that year, but none seemed to catch on.
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Sure, that works fine. I reference the frame in such vehicles for all return path connections for high powered accessories.
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OK, let me explain why in my near 30 years of building car audio systems, I've never run a ground from the amplifiers to the front of the vehicle to connect it to the battery negative.
1. That cable will have greater resistance over it's length than correctly utilizing the frame of a vehicle, like say a truck.
2. Should the stock battery negative to the block come loose, lose integrity, or become otherwise a botteneck, the starter will source current from other ground paths. If you had no audio system, that could be from the bell housing to the firewall (via the braided ground strap most vehicles have) and then back to the battery negative via the accessory ground lead between it and the inner fender or core support. Over time, one or both of these grounds can become damaged from this excessive current. Let's say that the ground strap from the bell housing snapped - new return path could be via the transmission kick down cable or throttle cable. In my time, I've seen it all happen and people will often continue to drive a vehicle like this until it simply won't start. Ever seen a throttle cable burned in half? Now, let's just say that one installs a killer audio system and does run a nice big ground cable to the battery negative. Forget about whether it's better or worse than the frame for the audio system. Think about how this could function as a return path for the starter - for example, let's say that the accessory ground wire between the battery negative and inner fender was snapped because the connection between the battery negative and block came loose and what I describe above just happened. Here's the new return path for the starter:
Bell housing to firewall, firewall to fender mounted antenna, antenna to radio, radio to amplifiers via RCA cables, amplifiers to battery negative.
Not much survives.
Guys, I will challenge you to make decisions that are safe choices - and not just because you heard someone tell you a friend told them on the 'net.
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So, what happens to your audio equipment when the cable between your battery and engine block proves to be higher in resistance than the return path via your audio system? IE - corrosion and oxidation break down the termination over time, a piece of road debris hits the cable and cuts or damages it, or someone cuts it in a theft attempt of your vehicle?
Consider the return path for the starter then . . .
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CA260s! Wow . . . 60 wpc or 180 watts bridged . . . and like $500 each in the day. Not many of them still in use . . .
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A word to the wise regarding Sonic
in Sonic Electronix - Great Selection Great Prices
Posted
Topic has been unlocked so that Sonic can resolve with the OP.