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snafu

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snafu last won the day on March 22

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About snafu

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  1. Here's another video that shows the actual temperature difference between CCA and OFC. Real results from an industry icon that knows what he's talking about. Or, you can put your head in the sand and go along with the above response . . .
  2. So, your fuse block melts which causes the jacket on your cable to become deformed from the heat and that's somehow the fault of the jacket construction? If I buy a tire and it fails and shreds the quarter panel as it comes apart, I'm not going to repaint the car with the same paint as it all came off in the process. Come on man.
  3. Yesterday, Steve posted a video about the real differences between CCA and OFC. This has been debated for as long as CCA has been around. This got me thinking . . . Do you know why CCA was brought to market? Simple - as copper prices increased CCA offered a less expensive alternative. You want 1/0 AWG cable but can't afford it? No problem - you too can have 1/0 AWG cable. Now, let's think about that for a second and let this sink in . . . Sunk in? Not yet . . well keep thinking . . . OK. Now, my problem with CCA has always been how it's marketed. It's been marketed as a less expensive alternative. You sir - you don't need copper cable, CCA will be just fine for you. You, over there - CCA will be just fine in your build. The fact of the matter is that CCA has never been an acceptable alternative to copper cable, just an alternative. Had CCA been marketed truthfully, it would have been something like this - Pay Less for Less! Of course then, nobody would have purchased it. What I simply cannot wrap my mind around is how many have come to the defense of a product that was brought to market to deceive the ill-informed consumer. Thread after thread. Discussion after discussion. Amazing. So much so, that I gave up discussing it years ago. Want to run CCA in your build? Go for it. No matter how you rationalize the decision, you're actively doing two things: 1 - encouraging deception in marketing 2 - devaluing quality copper cable - after all, if you didn't need it neither does your buddy This is exactly what happened to the capacitor business. Quality products in plain wrappers in plain white boxes gave way to a turd cylinder with a fancy wrapper and a volt meter in a velvet lined box. Absolute shit. Marketing deception at it's finest. A quality product that served a real purpose was displaced by garbage who's only purpose was to separate you from your money. A decade of that made it next to impossible to sell a quality product. There are volumes to be learned here. As the owner of CE Auto Electric Supply, I've been approached numerous times by various manufacturers trying to sell us alternatives - but it's cheaper and you can sell it for the same money! Well, it's also not as good so that would be deception - we ain't interested. We're not interested in paying less for less. But, we often pay more for more. That's why we buy Snap-On tools vs Harbor Freight. That's why we buy Fluke meters versus some pretty import knock off. And that's why when I turn the system on in my Mustang, I just enjoy the music. You rarely save money when saving money. Next time someone tells you that CCA is just fine for them, help to educate them. Oh, and if you haven't seen the video here it is:
  4. Grab a quality DMM with a MIN/MAX scale. Start your engine, allow it to reach operating temperature with the hood closed. Open the hood after the vehicle has reached operating temperature and the fans have come on. Set your DMM to measure DC Voltage. Set the DMM on a nice flat surface away from moving parts. Connect probes to the battery terminals. Press the MIN/MAX button to begin recording voltage over time. Get your ass in the driver's seat. Without touching the gas, crank up your favorite bass heavy song. Play it for at least ten seconds or until the neighbors threaten to call the cops. Go back to your DMM and press the MIN/MAX button (do NOT hold it) to scroll through the MINimum, MAXimum, and AVG (average) voltages recorded during this event. If the MINimum voltage recorded is less than 13.4 Volts DC, then you need a larger alternator.
  5. Voltage drop tests with a DMM separates the men from the boys . . . and fact from fiction. Thick, tin-plated eyelets offer low resistance terminations to cables and surfaces. Quality tinned OFC. Short return paths - none of this I ran my grounds back to the battery nonsense that prevails in this hobby. 3/8" & 1/2" Grade 5 plated hardware into tapped holes in thick surfaces with internal / external zinc plated star washers. Then, pull out your DMM and prepared to be amazed.
  6. We're proud to finally offer this incredibly compact and versatile PDC for high current accessories. For more info, full specifications, and to purchase a kit: https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/…/gep-dual-70a-relay-wate…/ This is my new favorite PDC - I can't wait to see what kinds of cool projects they're used for! Also, PDCs of this size can be interlocked (see last photo) for large projects - how freakin' cool is that?
  7. So, we're unable to reach Joe X. Would any member be able to reach him? If so, please have him contact me ASAP via the contact info in my email.
  8. I began selling High Output alternators in 1989 - nearly 30 years ago. In that time, I've done business with numerous companies. I've sold, installed, and analyzed hundreds of HOAs. Mechman stands head and shoulders above the others. The product is bullet proof. The customer service top notch. The fit and finish exceptional. You always get what you pay for with Mechman and there's never a question about that. Mechman became an SMD Partner in September of 2010. CE Auto Electric Supply became a Mechman dealer in February of 2012. In that time, I can tell you without hesitation that Mechman has been an exemplary partner to both SMD and CEAES in every sense of the word. In a category full of me too product wrapped in marketing hyperbole, Mechman products deliver. Matt - we're damn glad to have ya'!
  9. 1 - Simple. The headlights dim to the beat of the music due to the voltage drop created as a function of the amplifier(s) current demand. The more current required, the more severe the voltage drop and the more one's vehicle resembles a rolling disco to passersby. 2 - The solution would be to eliminate the voltage drop. In order to do that, a comprehensive and complete understanding of how your charging system really works is in order. For those of us that have street systems, with which we play music, the answer is quite simple indeed. [Quality] Capacitors. Recall, caps do two things: a) Store charge b) Oppose changes in voltage. Add enough capacitance (no more than 18" downstream of the offending amplifiers) and problem solved. This works 100% of the time. So, we don't add caps to the headlights, swap to LED or HID lighting (wherein the power supplies are regulated - you may want to re-read my earlier post in regard to understand why exactly these types of headlights don't dim to the beat of the music) - all of that stuff is merely moving the farm a few miles downstream of the leaking dam. Fix the leak. Obviously, this is a somewhat controversial topic. How many of you can I get to prove me wrong or right?
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