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snafu

SMD PARTNER
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Everything posted by snafu

  1. As to your original question, your system is simply not large enough to warrant the need for either. However, a larger alternator would offer additional current wheres a 2nd battery would provide additional play time with the engine not running - double if the batteries are of the same group size.
  2. As has been stated here, any upgraded return path to anything in the charging system in such a vehicle must pass through the RVC ring. [This is a hall effect sensor.] The ring tells the ECM the charge state of the battery and the regulation of the alternator is managed via that data.
  3. This isn't so straight forward on this vehicle. Best to contact the guys at Mechman and ask their advice. In addition, as SD says, more voltage isn't always better. Car batteries like 2.4V per cell at maximum. That's 14.4V for a traditional 12V battery with 6 cells. More voltage will shorten the life of the battery - unless we're talking deep cycle marine batteries . . .
  4. We made a BUNCH of 3/0 AWG custom cables for Ron's Gen 3 Dodge Diesel Truck. We also set him up with a lime green 370A Mechman alternator. He did all the installation per our guidelines. He supplied his own battery terminals and red wire covering . . . He brought it by and we put the carbon pile on it. Now, this thing is kinda' like D'Amore's honeybadger - it don't give a shit. The results were mighty impressive. The screen shot I captured was at idle (800 rpm). We also measured the voltage drop between the alternator and the battery which we had the carbon pile connected. The sun was in the absolute wrong spot at that time so the photos with the meters was washed out, unfortunately. However, who would like to guess the difference in voltage measurements between the two meters, given the following? 315A - at operating temp, at rpm Meter 1 - red to Alt output stud and black to case of alt Meter 2 - red to battery (+) and and black to (-) terminals on passenger side battery This is known as a voltage drop analysis when you look at the difference of voltage between any two points in a circuit. Ideally, we like to see such measurements differ by less than 3%. This shows us if the circuit is optimized or has room for improvement. Keep in mind that any voltage drop is voltage loss, and is converted to heat vs work. So, guesses? And by the way, all alternators have losses due to heat when mounted to an engine in an hot engine bay. We like to see that 15% or less under load while the alternator is at operating temp. So, this Mechman unit delivered the goods as always.
  5. CE AUTO ELECTRIC SUPPLY CABLE Meets or exceeds full AWG (American Wire Gauge) specifications. Is made of Pure OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) and tinned for corrosion resistance. Has a soft, flexible 600V PVC oil resistant jacket. Is dry rated for between -40 to 105 deg C, wet rated for up to 75 deg C. Is BC-5W2 Marine Compliant. Yep. Be sure you're comparing apples to apples when shopping for cable sir. Just the tinning adds 8% to the raw material cost.
  6. Like FREE stuff? Well then you definitely want to get in on our FREE T-Shirt or Hoodie Program! Each are SUPER NICE Gildan products with low shrinkage factor ( ! ), beautifully done artwork, and super comfy! Here's the skinny - https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/free-t-shirt-offer/
  7. SS is our oldest SMD Partner - dating all the way back to June of 2009 (wow!) . In that time, they've run some killer promotions and sales for SMD Members. This is the deepest one I can recall!
  8. Still got it but it's likely going up for sale soon . . . Since the last post, I've put maybe 8k on the clock.
  9. What you didn't tell us is what kind of vehicle this is. Many, and I mean many, late model vehicles have all kinds of challenges facing you in the digital domain that must be undone or normalized before installing new gear - equalization contours designed to make $3 speakers sound like $30 ones, fully active systems with each component having a narrow bandwidth of operation and / or delay, multiple position contours overlaid on top one another, etc. In addition, you could have some impedance mis-matching with your interface which could cause frequency response irregularities, etc. So, share a bit more.
  10. And now . . . it's in full color! Check out this example I did for a positive battery cable assy for a builder that prefers to use all black cable. The red battery boot keeps things sane when it comes time to break out the booster cables. The smaller 8 AWG auxiliary cable goes to the under hood power center. https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/custom-cable-builder/ If you've not tried it by now, then check it out. Design a cable, take a screen shot of it, post it up here, and tell us what it's for. You can literally do this in minutes!
  11. Check this out! Our CCB allows you to custom design cables to your exact specifications. AND, you can see the cable you've created before your very eyes as you're creating it! You simply have to try it - it's super simple on your PC or phone! https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/custom-cable-builder/ Try it out and let me know what you think!
  12. I like it. While SD's post is lengthy, it's also accurate. When it comes to charging system design, here are the factors you must consider: 1 - Intended use of the amplifiers - music / SPL / both 2 - Duty Cycle of the media (a function of #1) - heavily compressed pop music (or rap / bass discs) has a duty cycle of 50%, sine waves have a duty cycle of 100% 3 - Voltage available 4 - Current required 5 - Voltage Drop you're willing to live with (SD uses 5%, I tend to like 3%) 6 - Law of Diminishing Returns Once you have these answers, then it's a simple process of using Ohm's Law to arrive at the answer to a question like this. #6 is an ass kicker for sure. For example, you add three additional runs of cable and pick up .2dB on the meter. That's not insignificant if you compete - could make the difference between winning and losing - but the human ear can't detect the delta. Then, you add three more runs and pick up another .15dB on the meter. That's a total of 6 runs to pick up a third of a dB. Again, maybe that's what it takes to win. But, where do you stop? Personally, I don't think 90% of the members here at SMD are die-hard SPL competitors. Keep in mind when we're talking about thousands of Amperes of current and minimizing voltage drop, every single thing matters. Are you using the best materials available to you? Are your terminations done in such a way that voltage drop has been minimized. Etc. This process is referred to as minimizing your losses and it's what all of the world's best designers and engineers utilize. SD - well done. PM me your stuff so I can mail you the TORK2.
  13. Really, it's all about current over distance and how that affects voltage drop. Maybe I should build a calculator for such on our web site . . . hmmm . . .
  14. SD - I'd like this answer a LOT more if you edited it to incorporate the duty cycle of music. [Yes . . . I see what you did with the 15kw calculations - but let's get the enthusiast there more directly.] Let's all stay tuned and give SD the chance to edit accordingly.
  15. Lately, I've seen lots of video and photos of 10, 20, and 30,000 "watt" builds. While 30 runs of "oversized" 1/0 AWG power and ground cables may look the part, it's absolutely not necessary. First and foremost, the Laws of Physics are in fact Laws, not just really good ideas. They work in your favor as well as against it. Let's say that we design a system capable of 30,000 Watts RMS. As in - they system is cable of delivering 30kW of unclipped power to our speakers. The source of power is infinite (no matter how much juice we need, it can maintain 13.8 Volts - wouldn't that be nice?) Show me: 1 - the math on determining just how much current it would require to play music at 30kW 2 - the math to determine how many runs of 1/0 AWG copper cable it would require with the source of power located 15 foot away If you don't know how to answer, then your time will be far better served by learning how than comparing prices on cable for your next build. First person to get both right gets a FREE TORK-2 shipped to your front door (US only). This isn't designed to be a freebie. You'll have to earn it.
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