Cashdollar2009

Ego?

I had this issue to at low volumes... When I reconed some of the glue on my dustcap was too far away from the edge and it didn't glue the whole way around. Eventually the dustcap just came completely off when I was playing. Glued it back on completely once I realized I had missed parts before. Never had that issue again.

Do not try to put two 18"s in 6 cubes.

In 6ft^3 i'd look into 15"s if you are set on running two subwoofers. Two DC Audio Level 4XL 15"s would love 6ft^3. 6ft^3 would work good for a single 18" in a high-powered application. (high-powered as in a "real" subwoofer... if that makes sense?) But if you want to go with a single 18" you'd be looking between 5-5.5ft^3 really. If it were me, i'd choose the 15" XL's because of cone area mainly. The output really depends on how you build it. Your tuning/port area/power will play a huge role. Ste one would be to make up your mind on subwoofers and amplifier/s. Once you have them selected, there are a ton of people on here to help. From personal experience, I LOVE my 15" XL. Two of them would be NUTS in a car! Every subwoofer acts differently, and has its own sweet spot. Those are just general suggestions from my knowledge.

What subwoofers? What amplifier? What vehicle? What are your goals with this setup?

Teach me. lol that is right, you can't mount horizontal, vertical would be cone facing you Vertical would be cone facing up? Horizontal would be cone facing you?

Teach me. lol

I have an HC1800 I may be willing to part with. Still looks and works like new and rests around 12.4 iirc. Let me know what you're willing to do through PM's.

That's a parallel wiring configuration, giving you a nominal load of 2-ohms. When you say "bridge," that is just a certain way to wire your subwoofer stage to your amplifier, it has nothing to do directly with your wiring configuration. BUT, as a guess, your amplifier is only 4-ohm stable bridged, so when you wire down to 2-ohms, your amplifier is cutting in and out of protect trying to prevent you from frying anything... :/

Are you looking at my picture dude? Sub AND Port are firing forward. My trim is blocking the top corner of my port. Which is the reason I made this thread. lolz If I were to just build the port in the middle or use less than 3 common port walls, the mdf displacement would take up too much net volume...

It was scurred of teh 1 farat capacitator.

Lol it's all good man. Really, it's as simple as that. Just make sure you continue to give Rusty's company a good name, and he'll take care of you. Also, if you PM him, he can hook you up with a Team sticker. Side note, got a youtube channel? That's looks like a nice setup in your sig. I wouldn't mind seeing it in action! I have a buddy looking into the level 4's as opposed to 3's. I still can't talk him into some XL's quite yet though.

Did you not read the thread you just dug up? Lol

A triple baffle would not do anything spec wise as you would just be adding wood to the OUTSIDE of the box. Also, by inverting the subs, you would be gaining more net volume equivalent to that of the total displacement of your subwoofers motors. This really just making your box "bigger" and dropping your tuning assuming you do not modify your port in any way.

? The port is in the front? You mean middle? That would be because of wood displacement cutting down on my desired net volume...

And you are correct. I'll have to switch those numbers up... I was thinking side walls only since it will bend and need to use the back wall. Makes more sense your way.

I know what you're saying man, the curent problem is though that in doing that and not using three common port walls, it eats up too much net volume...

TTT

ttt

So we can help the brotha out asking how many subs it takes to hairtrick, but not help the brotha out with a legitimate question???

You know what. Stick around man. I'm just wanting you to know that you have named some really nice equipment. It's not mine, but i'd hate to see it go due to ignorance, just as much as you'd hate to see it go because the knob was too high. TONS of good info here. You'll get some answers here sooner or later. While you wait, just look around and read. If you're running 6,000wrms+ on a pair of 18"s and some DAMN nice XS Power equipment that i'll NEVER afford, you BETTER know a thing or two about it!

Could be a yes or a no. Set your gains with a dmm since I assume you do not have ready access to an oscilloscope. There are a few good tutorials online. Also, there is a set chart somewhere online that I am sure someone can post for you.

I think you should sell me the batteries and amp for cheap, and start smaller. MUCH smaller. lol But seriously, do a good bit more research than just asking questions to try to get your answers. You can't get everything answered 100% accurate on everything through people on the internet. You have to either learn and then figure out on your own, or take it to someone who does know. Running 6k daily, nothing good can come out of an "oops."

I have been running my aero for a while now and for my rebuild here this month I want to go back to the good ol' slot port. BUT, my issue I will be facing is that my trunk cut-out sort of "covers" the top corner of my slot when i'm trying to use up every bit of width possible to get a good final net, and have the front fit snug so I can seal it off... Here is my old box to show what I am talking about: Now, I have been looking into flaring my port. From the knowledge I have, this obstruction will affect my tuning slightly, raising it. If I were to put a flare onto the end of my port coming out of the baffle, (derrrr a flared port) would this possibly help against the minor obstruction my stupid cut-out covers? In order to get my targeted net ft^3, I need to use 2 common port walls or this would not be an issue. (Side wall, then back wall for the bend.) Thanks ahead guys.

I like your username.