Cashdollar2009

Haha well my whole steering column is about as solid as it's gonna get. For now a pair of 15" XL M1's on a Rockford T2500-1bdcp at .5-ohms. My voltage isn't quite up to par yet. Ordering a Singer Alternator here soon. Looking to have a pair of 15" XL M2's or Level 5's by the end of summer with a T2500-1bdcp per sub. And I was going to tune higher since this is a temporary box to try for numbers, but I spend A LOT more time in the car listening to music. Sub-30Hz is where it's at man! I'm tuned to about 31.5Hz according to paper, but can play down to 22Hz with no issues and rather efficiently still.

Nothing too special. Just thought i'd share.

Agreed. The roundovers look great. Definitely tuned into this one. It's so much more fun to be the guy watching the other guy cut into such a nice vehicle. lol

Pair of 15" DC Audio XL M2's on a DC 5k. Mechman high output aftermarket alternator and biggest XS Power battery you can fit under the hood. Three XS Power D3100's or three XS Power XP3000's in the rear. At least two runs of Knukonceptz 1/0 power and two runs of Knukonceptz 1/0 ground from the front battery to the rear. Big three under the hood with Knukonceptz 1/0. All of that can be changed to different brands, etc. Just giving you a solid brand reference to start with to give you an idea. It all depends on budget and willingness.

Lookin' good man.

The metal songs where "Greeving - Abandon All Ships" and "Unrest - Parkway Drive" I have a bunch more with some badass double bass. Awesome man, thanks. I'll have to check them out. Badass build for sure. About time you get it all playing! Lol

DAYUM good to see this thing up and playing! What was the second song you played by the way? Sounds like a great song for demo when trying to show solid kickdrum hits and whatnot to rock listeners.

It's always had clipping in it. You just have to be careful with it, heavy track though for sure.

You don't want orange bro. lol If you watch the video or any of the review video's you'll see...

Definitely paying close attention to this. I'm looking to buy a Trailblazer here soon. Looking to run similar power with two Fosgate T2500-BDCP's so you can let me know how the vehicle likes all of that sound pressure. Plus I can get ideas based on how you route and locate everything! Nice looking vehicle for sure.

The proof is there and has been shown in numerous builds all over the site. Regardless, if you have the resources, what would it hurt? The only thing I can really say is... You can either do it the first time, or tear things apart to do it next week. Lol

And basically what CJ said, in order to driver a woofer over it's rms ratings, the answer is the same with basically EVERY driver. If you have to ask, stick to right around rms. Just saying how much a driver can handle isn't answer enough. There are quite a few factors that play into it. If you do some research and get yours hands dirty on your enclosure, rms would be surprisingly loud. I ran a single 15" SA-15 for a while in my car and was doing around a 142db @ 38Hz on about 700rms clamped.

If you don't have a ton of experience with the drivers, then 600-800wrms. Though people get away with 800+wrms daily. In order to run more than the rated rms you would have to have a solid understanding of electrical, clipping, and how to design an enclosure made specifically for your power handling. The enclosure specifications on Sundown's site are plenty efficient to run each driver off of 600-800wrms though. The SA-Series drivers are rather efficient and you'd be surprised how loud you could get off of a pair of them on a SAZ-1500d, SAE-1200d, DC 1.2K, etc.

Those constant power series amplifiers are nice. I'm planning to run a pair here soon on some DC XL's. As far as your options, if you insist on running all three, I'd definitely say to stick with the 2.67-ohm load. Luckily in your case you have the "constant power" series amplifier, therefore you'll still probably see a ballpark rated 2400-2700wrms at that load. If it were basically any other monoblock, you'd see your power cut substantially going from 1-ohm to 2.67-ohms. What kind of subwoofers are you looking to run?

I don't know how to edit on mobile, so I'll make one more post. Although three 12"s has more cone area, you will see more than twice the power on only two subwoofers because you would be able to obtain a final load of 1-ohm. Depending on the subwoofers, you may be better selling the third and investing in wire to upgrade your big three or look into a secondary battery to maintain a higher operating voltage as you would be wired down to 1-ohm. So you're really looking at theoretically 33% more cone area vs. 150% more power. I vote power. Just my $0.02.

I wouldn't reccomend 0.67 ohms for a daily application. With your configuration, 2.67 would be the lowest impedance possible that wouldn't void any warranty or risk general equipment failure.

Each sub parallel down to 2, then all three paralleled down to 0.67 ohms. Each sub parallel down to 2, then all three series up to 6 ohms. Each sub series up to 4, then all three parallel down to 2.67 ohms.

It seems the majority on forums, as well as myself personally do use the Titebond II wood glue. If you spread it evenly and keep the pieces tight together until it dries, it has always seemed to work just fine. I typically caulk all of the inside seems regardless just in case. Overkill isn't really a bad thing here.

I vote for the KDC-X695. I've owned 5 different Excelon decks, gradually upgrading, and currently run the KDC-X995. Plus our shop is a certified Kenwood Excelon and JVC Arsenal dealer. Never had an issue with any of mine or any of the customers that I have installed. The 4V pre-amp outputs are nice.

Also curious as to where you got the dustcap stickers from!

Damn, and I almost forgot to Gastfreundschaft my Schlussfolgerung tonight. Thanks for looking out sir.

Yeah it's always fun getting a demo from someone where you can actually smell the bass. lol

From my experience, they can get loud, but aren't the nicest on the meter. I had my 15" XL on a little over 2k and managed a 145.0 even at 36Hz. That took A LOT of work to get to that number. lol. But to the ear, it was always pretty loud on anything I put in there. Probably because the car peaks around 43Hz and 43Hz is a good "loud note" in a lot of songs. lol

Cool deal man. I'll be looking out for it. It'd be nice to see someone else actually try to get loud in an Alero.