bumpnthump

What kind of enclosure are you going to do? Prebuilt? Build your own? Tuning? How big?

I'd say you'd be pretty happy with the D3's more than you would with the RE's.

Well if your not on a budget just get some FI's

Alright, thanks guys!

Its not a stock headunit. http://onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_2088..._KDC-MP242.aspx What kind of setting would I look for in my headunit?

I am trying to find out if there is a way to make the speakers in my doors to play only the highs, since I have subs to cover the lows. The main reason I want to do this is because my front speakers are stock and they sound like shit at moderate to high volumes because of the bass. I looked at my head unit settings and couldn't find anything but maybe some of you know how? They are 5x7 speakers by the way.

Honestly, I'd take the sundown any day. Never had much experience with soundstream products, but the specs say 2200 watts at 1 ohm so I'm guessing it does around 1800-2000. The sundown looks more aesthetically pleasing and has better customer service and will probably still pump the same amount of power. Oh and I didn't see a price on the soundstream so that's another factor I didn't include.

I would do Fi audio BL 12" fully loaded - https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/...view.shopscript AQ1200D - http://www.audioque.com/aq/?page_id=26 2.5 cubic foot box ported to ~34hz Knukonceptz wiring - http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.c...allation%20Kits XS D975 battery up front - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...id=320460884557 Clarion CZ309 headunit - 6 volt preouts and other goodies - http://onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_2085...rion_CZ309.aspx

My friend had a similar problem with his 2 cvrs. The amp would have power and everything was hooked up right, but the subs would not play.

If you are new to car audio, I definitely wouldn't get them for your first setup. Most people on this forum will agree. Except the crazy ones.

I don't know the actually power a r500 puts out, but you could get 2 dual 1 ohm SSD subs and push them with a hifonics amp. I like Hifonics amps because they are 1 ohm stable, push rated power, and are priced very well.

With your budget I'd personally go with: 2 12": https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/...view.shopscript Enough power for those subs and a great price: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HIFONICS-BXi-2010D...mplifiers?hash= 0 Gauge amp kit: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-PK0 RCA cables: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.c...rodID=KARSS2.6M Speaker cable. I'd get 12-15 ft: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KAR10SS Head Unit. 6 volt preouts, usb and aux ports, 20x4 watt rms for $130: http://onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_2085...rion_CZ309.aspx For that system your looking at ~$940, you could build your own enclosure for $35 if you have the tools. Use 3/4" MDF board. Anyways, that's my input, hope it helped. Oh and I just remembered, if you can find a good price on them, 2 12" funky pup subs will get louder than anything mentioned in this thread. Be careful.

Depends how much RMS power your going to be running 80 amps should be fine with under 1000 watts. With 1500 I'd probably go with 120-150 amp fuse.

Depends exactly what you want and what woofers your going to be running, but 30-40 hz is a good place to start.

It was a soundstorm f700.2, an older amp. POS too. Don't have one at the moment. Will soon though.

So the only way to know for the subs 100% would to test the coils with a multimeter?

I'm not sure. Partially because my friend is stubborn and doesn't know a thing about car audio and secondly because it would not get loud with the gain set low. Had HU volume on 25-26 out of 35 and it was not loud. And yes, I know the gain is not a volume knob.

A dc lvl 4xl 15" on 2000 watts? With a bigass enclosure. Would get loud.

My friend just got 2 kicker cvr 12's and we were bumpin them alright with this 2 channel 700w amp he was borrowing. At 4 ohms bridged, this amp was maybe putting out 150 watts a sub? Way underpowered for Cvr's. So we were bumping some songs down the highway and I thought that I smelt a faint burning smell or something like it, and was thinking it might be the coils, so we turned it down a little, but kept playing them. They played fine the rest of the night. Keep in mind that we only played these subs for a total of maybe 3-4 hours total over a week or so. Anyways, the next morning we were playing them pretty hard, and all of the sudden it bass just cuts out. Got to my house, checked all of the connections, cables, wires, even re-soldered the power and ground terminals and made sure all fuses were still good. We reconnected everything and double checked it all. Everything was right. We turned his car on and played some songs, no bass still. The amp still has the power light on and no protect mode. I pushed the cones on the subs down to see if anything was scratching, nothing. Took them out and looked at them, still look brand new and everything. So I'm 99% sure its the amp, but its not going into protect mode when we turn on the car. Whats wrong? Everything looks good but still no bass. Is it possible that the amp is fried? Gain was up to maybe 3/4 and half bass boost? If anything isn't clear just ask. Thanks.

What up, lately I have only seen people bumping the same shit over and over and it gets old. Jeezy and all that shit knocks pretty good, but there is shit way louder. Heres some of the songs I'd like to share. Let me know how they hit for you guys Rednose - Tech N9ne <--- Fuckin ridiculous Randy MOSS - Young L ft. Lil B Money Ho - Young L M.O.S.S. - Young L Deadly Verses - Gangsta Pat Ridin on Chrome - Project Pat Juicebox - Gorilla Zoe This Dat Beat - Kingspade Doe Doe - Krizz Kaliko Pass Me Da Green - Master P Its the PJ - PJ Adrenaline Rush - Twista Lets Start a Riot - Kingping Skinny Pimp Thats what I've been playing lately. Let me know how they treat your subs. Enjoy

Lets start a riot by skinny pimp bumps.

You could get 2 Fi 15 BL's for $600 and push them with 2 hifonics BXI 1210D's. Those will push ~1200 watts at 1 ohm, and those subs could take 1200 continuously.

In the trunk, low, leave me alone all have good bass.

If you didn't read my whole post, I told the OP that its recommended that he builds his own box, obviously because prefabs are for the most part, shitty. I have heard my share of bandpass boxes and they all pretty much don't measure up to a properly built ported enclosure because they are built incorrectly.

Bandpass boxes usually only sound decent if they are built for a specific sub. They are mainly used because they look cool, but doesn't usually sound as good as a sealed or ported box.