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Integra_boomer

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Posts posted by Integra_boomer

  1. I always thought of the CVX line as round L7's basically. So roughly speaking they are kinda equal imo. And for the the price your gonna pay, why not maybe spend a lil more $ and get say some DC 12's or a couple Sundown SA-12's. Sounds like a good plan to me :P

    Or if your box is in good shape, just get a decent 15 and swap er out :P like AQ HD3C it should be able to take 1500w iirc-- or like a 15" BL, BTL or a LVL4 XL something like that. and then you can keep your box and just swap out and slam like 15 min after it gets to your door :P = better plan

    Damn i was thinking the same thing. I have been looking at getting the HD3C.

  2. Alright so one of the coils went dead on my cvx. Poop! right when i built this new box too. The 15" CVX i knw is capable of at least 143db with that box mabey more but i never got the chance to see. anyways do you guys think i should get another CVX or 2 10" L7S? I WANT to b LOUDER

  3. im glad you laughed, lol. was that your intention of the post or were you seriously happy when someone wanted a demo? i get tired of giving demos now...its like all the little kids that park in front of taco bell want to challenge me (their idea is two cars facing each other blasting to see whos is louder) with their duals and neon lights and then they want to sit in to see what a sound system is supposed to sound like, lol.

    cool though that people actually wanted to hear it instead of making mean faces at the killer you have in the trunk

    yea i wanna be public enemy loud... which i already am in this town but i mean straight up smd loud like you guys.

  4. Thanks man this info is very usefull, explains my car will start back up when i disconnect the batt. , because it resets the TCM (transmission control module). Now my cars working fine but who knows when it will mess up again, its been doing it alot these past two days so whatever is wrong mite b getting worse. so now i just have to wait for it to mess up again and hopefully read the l.e.d code on the TCM and figure out the prob :)

  5. Ok this problem is getting really bad now. I have a 1990 integra with the b- series (b18a1) motor, automatic version and i think its having ecu/transmission problems. along time ago the car would not start and the s3 gear( special highway gear that i knw knothing about) would flash. when i did get it started it would still flash and the car would be sooo slow like it was the tranny. and the s3 gear would flash constently, but when i went were i needed to go and turned the car off, it started back up just fine. Well here i am 6 months later and its doing it again and more progressivly, EVERY time i turn it off it will do this and to start it up i have to disconnect the batt. so thats y i think its an ecu prob. Normally when i turn the car to acc the s3 gear comes on the goes off, then i start the car. that part is normal, but it has to have something to do with the s3 and that gear,(a gear that is not used to drive the car) but for some reason it flashes when i was having the prob so i think its a code or something. Tell me what you guys think

    c9ce082a83c1.jpg

    Heres a pic of my dash, the s3 gear is the fifth one down on the left. this gear comes on when i turn the key over to acc and then makes a clicking noise and goes off, which again i think is normal. But this gear was flashing when i couldnt start my car and when i had it running and flashing the car would take of real slow.

  6. One thing you will want to get is a tube of this sealant called Hondabond. You can get it at a dealership I believe. You'll be putting a dab of this on the cam seals when you put the valve cover back on the head. B-series engines are notorious for leaking oil at the cam seals and this is one way to fix it. (you MIGHT be able to use liquid gasket or something similar but I've never seen or heard of anything other than Hondabond being used)

    hmm then this might explain the little bit of oil leaking near the valve cover.

  7. Mine plays highs like nothing but when a low note hits you can see the battery voltage drop just a little.

    same here on my car, the lows made the voltage go down like crazy and lights dim, high notes nothing. I ran 1/0 to the alt and now I can bump everything even lows and my voltage stays above 14.

  8. I have a question for anyone who is willing and sorry OP i'm not trying to thread jack, i just don't wanna make a thread about it.

    Why is it a good idea to fuse based on the size of the wire vs the actual amount of current going through it at any given time?

    Heres an example.

    I have a walmart ever start battery, if i had 0 gauge wire as my big three why should i use a 300 amp fuse? My battery would NEVER blow it and the car would burn to the ground even with the fuse.

    Wouldn't it just be best to put a fuse based on how much current comes from the alt?

    the batt would not blow it but say if the sheilding on ur 1/0 burned and it were to short from touching all the grounds the fuse would definitly blow as far as using the 300A fuse i think its so you can have as much current as possible pass through.

  9. well finally finished the alt. charge wire a few days ago. I noticed a difference even with the 100A fuse.

    f8f9cfee29df.jpg5c8440d0c273.jpg

    d1c535279083.jpgb7f49fe8ae36.jpg

    Also finished 3rd place again @ a midwest spl event in Pittsburg, KS. I hit 142.1dB this time, without the buddys on my trunk lol, and second hit 142.1dB too but i guess the TL went to hundrenth's and the guy beat me by that.

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