CJ18
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Posts posted by CJ18
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If you want one let me know and I will see about making it happen.
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I have a short video of the test that I will upload on Monday. My internet at home is horrible.
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1- XS Power XS40KSPL 16v
1- Shok 8.5k 18v version
1- Fluke clamp
1- Amp Dyno7962w
14.37v---- Starting voltage for test was 16.7v
720a draw
77% efficiency at 1 ohmThis test was done with no charger or any type of input on the battery. This was done on battery power only.
Make sure you check out our website for all products from these great companies.
http://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/
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DO you know what the net airspace of the box is?
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Which sub has the issue?
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I have 1 DC Audio 5.0k that has been professionally repaired by amp medics. This amp is guaranteed to come in 100% working condition. Custom Plexi Backplate is also included.
$800 plus shipping
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Always use rubber glue for the surround and dustcap. If you dont have rubber glue, GOOP works great as well. The only time you would want to use CA for the Surround or Dustcap is if you are in the middle of a show and having to recone between runs and have no dry time.
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Please post pictures of your enclosure along with specs.
Also were the subs purchased at the same time?
First thing I would check is the wiring of the subs and the final ohm load at the amplifiers. Also check the ohm load of each sub by itself not connected to anything else.
My first gut feeling is that you may have two different impedance subs or could have one wired different from the other.
Another option, with your box, is it a bottom port or is it off to 1 side or the other? If the port is off to one side, this could cause a loading issue since the subs are not seeing the exact same thing.
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i checked all connections on vehicle before work and the one on alternator post had somehow loosened a bit, i went to tighten it and i could not tighten it without possibly breaking something (not sure if theres corrosion all over or if the bolt was partially melted or what but was unable to loosen or tighten the bolt without being scared of breaking it right off)
i headed to work and noticed now i was getting 15.2 volts cold-later dropped to around 14.6 or so (hot im guessing)
i believe the issue was a bad connection at the alternator positive output
now at 2 ohm output dropping from 14.6 to 13.9 on bass hits. not sure what to do about the output bolt though
I will update thread if there are any changes in the future!
I would change out that lug ASAP to one that actually fits the output stud. I was advised about this issue with one of my old alts and informed that exactly what you have happening there could potentially cause the alternator to fail.
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One thing I would highly recommend, replace the Sky High lug that has a 3/8" bolt hole with something with a smaller hole the fits the bolt snug. That can create a major issue.
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Belt slip. Also the F150 tends to idle too low to get the alt to put out much power. Put your foot on the gas and see what happens.
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Not sure if I missed it, what is the year/make/model/engine of the vehicle.
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One nice thing with the PSC is that it uses an anderson connector for the charge leads. You can install a set of charge leads to you battery bank and whenever you want to charge them, just plug in.
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I have both sitting in front of me now. Excuse my following ramblings, I hope it makes sense.
I am using my red box 1005 intellicharger to individually charge each one of my batteries. They are all currently resting at 12.7v, about .4v lower than they should. I have the PSC60 that I usually use to charge them when I have all 11 bussed together here as well. When I put it on just 1 battery, it charges for a few minutes and says it is full, but when I put the 1005 charger on them, it is actually giving them a full deep charge.
The plus to the PSC Charger/Power Supply is the Power Supply and Recovery Mode. I use 2 PSC60 in Power Supply Mode on my test bench when I am using the amp dyno to supply a little extra current and to keep the batteries fresh.
Recovery mode is great when you have a dead battery. We were able to recover a D6500 that a customer has let get down to 9.5v. After running recovery mode on it and giving it a full charge, the battery was back to resting at 12.9v.
Personally I would go with the PSC15 if I had to choose due to the extra functions you get.
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Dec 29th, 2009. Not sure what my member number is though. This forum got me started into car audio and I can say played a big roll into starting our company.
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i would say 14.8 volts on 14v batteries is low. not to mention you had 2 400a alternators.. this guy has 380a. we stated before that he needs at least 2 350a alternators. you had 800a. you had more alternator power and still dropped low.. i wouldnt recommend it unless he had the power to back it upDisclaimer: The following was done with full understanding of the risks and knowingly voided my warranty.
I ran the 12k at .5 bridged for about 6 months before I decided I wanted more power and went to 2 7.5ks. Took it like a champ. This was backed by 2 singer 400A alternators and 8 XS D1400s as well. Voltage never dropped below 14.8v.
So here is the real question, are you willing to pay a $500 repair bill if you blow it? If so, I say go for it.
Not low at all. You have to remember that the 12k was a 12v amp with a 15.3v ceiling. My set point was 15.1v not the typical 16.8.
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Few questions
-have you ever ran an amp at .5 ohm
-do you have the electrical to back it up
-do you have a need to run it at .5 ohm
12k is a bridged amp.... two smaller boards..
I know chode runs his low.. but.... i wouldnt..... no way... its like bridging a amp half rated.... fuck that..
2 smaller boards? If I remember correctly, the 12k was a 2 channel amplifier, not 2 internally strapped boards.
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If anyone would like to argue, please bring facts that you can prove through personal experience or testing. What someone else did that you saw posted on facebook or youtube is not credible data to base an argument on.
I read a post about an argument about the 12k with chode(nick). Nick used the amplifier and knows what it was able to handle. He has credible experience with the amplifier to base his argument on. Personal experience trumps opinion with no factual backing.
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Disclaimer: The following was done with full understanding of the risks and knowingly voided my warranty.
I ran the 12k at .5 bridged for about 6 months before I decided I wanted more power and went to 2 7.5ks. Took it like a champ. This was backed by 2 singer 400A alternators and 8 XS D1400s as well. Voltage never dropped below 14.8v.
So here is the real question, are you willing to pay a $500 repair bill if you blow it? If so, I say go for it.
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Ideally I want to do a credit card auth for the full amount of the tools rented. I have to check and see how long a pending authorization will be active before it falls off to make this doable.
I know most people won't want to put down a full deposit, but if that is the only way I can protect my tools, that will be the only option.
And to answer a post about tool condition vs the deposit, return the tool and it is irrelevant. The purpose of a full price depost/authorization is to protect my investment and give the renter motivation to return the product.
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I have to sit down this week and write a rental agreement that covers everything. I will make the final decision on everything at that time.
Right now this is what I am planning.
Rental fee- 10% of the tools regular price. Ex dd1 $150 would rent for $15
Renter will pay shipping both ways. A return shipping label will be included.
There will be a deposit required to rent any tool. As of now I am planning on that being a full price deposit. Upon safe return of the rented tool, a partial refund would be issued of the full amount less rental fee and shipping costs.
Rental period would be for 7 days. There would days allowed for shipping based on where you are. I will also include a 3-5 day grace period to allow for weekends and holidays. Rough estimate is about 16 days from the time I ship until it must be received back.
There will be late fees charged for up to 5 days that the tool is late past the due date. Once these 5 days have passed, the deposit will be forfeited.
Rental agreement will contain a clause for tool damage as well. All rental agreements will be sent back to the renter with documented proof of the tools condition as it is when shipped to them.
That is the base of what I am thinking. Just have to put it all into a legal document.
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Going to start with 5 dd1, 5 cc1, 1 I msg, and 1 amm1 for the rental program. If the need grows then I will add more tools.
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I have to get the tools together for this. I have 15 dd1 on the way right now.
Mechman and Droppin' HZ a winning combo!
in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
Posted
I just picked up my custom made triple alt bracket from powder coating today and it came out awesome! I couldnt help myself and had to mock up the 370 Elites on it to see how they look. Came out awesome! I cant wait to get it mounted up on the truck, just waiting on new chrome plated bolts to arrive later this week.