CJ18
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Posts posted by CJ18
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I confirmed tonight with Tony that they are available. There is about a 2-3 week lead time on them though. As with all of the D'Amore products, they are built here AND tested here.
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That is exactly what we are trying to build. It is hard to make a living in the quality car audio market when you arent a manufacture, but I just cant stoop down to selling products that I wouldnt put in my own vehicles. I guess it is different for a company that is just in it to make a buck, but when you are involved in the industry and understand true quality, I just cant put my name on the line for a product that isnt quality.
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http://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/subwoofers-damore-engineering-c-129_149.html
We now have the D'Amore Engineering subwoofers available for purchase.
Just for SMD Members, we are also offering 10% off of the first 10 orders placed. Just use the code AF10 at checkout.
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With the purchase of any DC Audio package, you will receive either free product or store credit to be used on future purchases!!!!
No promo code necessary!
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I know that roughly 26-30 are already spoken for. That leaves very few available once they are done unless there is huge interest and people with cash in hand to buy them.
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First order placed by an SMD member for one of these 3 amps, I will add a Free Droppin HZ Shirt to the package from CNGraphix. Make sure you send me a message to let me know you ordered one since I dont know most names vs usernames.
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We want to make sure that coming into tax season we can help you guy make your dollar go further as well as get the best gear in your hands!!!!
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Buy Select DC Audio Amplifiers and get FREE STUFF!!!! Up to a $390 value in FREE products!!!!!!!!
This offer is only valid from Droppin HZ Car Audio and is subject to cancellation due to stock at any time.
http://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/monoblock-dc-audio-c-117_121_59.html
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Just a quick review of this amp.
Much smaller footprinted than its big brother, the 175.4, but still packs a big punch in a small packages. I was very very pleased with the output of this amplifier. It has fully active on board crossovers for those of you who like to bypass the stock crossovers or who run pro audio.
Overall this amplifier completely passed the Amp Dyno Test.
http://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/dc-audio-904-p-212.html
Use code YOUTUBE90 to save at checkout.
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Nothing wrong with a back seat box, just make sure you find a way to secure it down properly. Don't want to hit the breaks and it go flyin.
You are going to want 3.5ft3 per sub net airspace.
If you have any questions, shoot me a pm and I will be glad to help you out.
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Here is my last arguement on this and I am done with this.
AMM1 for $359 on pre sale, takes all of the guess work out of this. This arguement has beeen over a dummy loaded test where both methods SHOULD agree. But when you take both methods into a vehcile, clamping is complete shit. The AMM1 will do all of the work for you AND give you TRUE WATTS!
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TFade had a legitimate reason to question the test and is the reason I went back to redo it.
Here is the fact to using the scope. You are relying on your eyes to visually detect clipping. I dont care how good your scope is, there is now the human error element.
I used my own eyes to see where I could visually see clipping and it was higher than where the AMM1 first saw it.
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1.5ft3 net per sub with 15in2 of port per ft3 should do nicely. Tuning will be up to you, 32-35hz is a good range to be in.
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I dont think so, but I could be wrong. First request of the sort I have heard.
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I would take a pair of Level 2 12s personally. More cone area will have more potential.
http://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/dc-audio-m2-level-12-p-241.html
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Sub and Amp packages and Amp Packages!!!!!
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Dyno reading tells me that this amplifier made 622w of clean power before it detected clipping.
AMM1 tells me that it sees 637VA with a power factor of 100% before it seeing clipping.
AMM1 tells me that it sees 730VA with a power factor of 100% right when it sees clipping.
MY EYES tell me that just before I can visually see clipping, there is 784VA with a 100% power factor.
MY EYES tell me that when I can first visually see clipping, there is 846VA with a 100% power factor.
Summary. Dyno says 622w of clean power. AMM says 637w of clean power. MY EYES using a Scope tell me 784w of clean power.
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Before someone wants to come out and say it, I dont care what you think you would be able to see on the scope, this is what I saw. iF you would like to argue that point, please feel free to buy all of the equipment necessary and do your own testing for the viewing pleasure of others.
Now on to the results.
Screen Shot 1 frame before clipping light turns on.
50.6vAC
12.6aAC
Power Factor of 100% makes this 637.56w
Screen shot 1 frame later with clipping light on.
54.1vAC
13.5aAC
Power Factor of 100% makes this 730.35w
Screen Shot 1 frame before I can visually see clipping
56vAC
14aAC
Power Factor of 100% makes this 784w
Screen shot where I can first visually see clipping.
58.4vAC
14.5aAC
Power Factor of 100% makes this 846.8w
Dyno Reading
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I am uploading a few screen shots of the last video now.
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If I can find my cable to plug my camera into my computer I am redoing this test in more detail.
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All I gotta say is amm-1 is a great tool. Pricey but good tool. Prolly best smd tool to date.
Video showed clamp wrong. Admit it and move forward. How hard is it to make another 4 minute video? Someone who doesn't read through all these pages or watches video on Facebook or YouTube are going to be mislead. Your product can sell itself, doesn't need to put others down in false ways to sell it.
For clamping in a car to see real power this tool is probably the easiest most affordable out there. Are there other ways, yes but this tool will eliminate all human error and be dead on everytime.
Awesome stuff.
How about this, would you like me to redo the test and use only a TRMS Multi meter. THen how are you going to know the point where clipping occured?
The only thing wrong with what I did may be the way I come across on the video instead of explaining why there is such a drastic difference.
Here is the fact of the matter. 99% of people who clamp are going to do exactly what I did. Take the biggest number you see and claim it as watts.
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This is getting interesting. Looks like a lot of people are taking this video the wrong way.
We obviously have a couple of people in here that do have an idea how to properly use clamps on a resistive load. But how many people really do? I will be more than happy to redo the video and show more detail.
Here are a few facts
1) on a resistive load, dyno and clamping should match.
2) dyno tells you the number straight up, to find the correct nber while clamping, you have to watch the sine wave to find the point that you think is just at or before clipping.
3) how many people that clamp, do it with a scope? Not many. Most use a dmm and cheap clamp. Even using a resistive load, you can't see your sine wave on a dmm so you just take the biggest number. Not accurate.
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You are looking at about $5000 worth of testing equipment sitting on my make shift bench. I have the tools to do the job correctly, most people dont.thank you cj18, that's what I was trying to explain with my last post but you said it much better.
in short what im seeing is that with out the proper equipment (which gets expensive just for a good scope) you cant get an accurate results from the clamping that most people do. it can be a more accurate test with the right tools at hand and more work but for the money the amm1 is a steal.
all the scopes ive seen run around $300-400 for a nice one. don't forget the dmm and getting a test bench together to put a reactive load on the amp to get a true rms reading at a given load.
The AMM1 now provides an affordable solution that.
That's what i'm trying to say, with cost difference between the tools needed to get an accurate test the amm1 is a hands down winner.
Yes clamping with the right tools can give you More accurate result but still not 100% and not as cost effective. Let's face it us audio guys are always looking for a good way to save money while still getting the install done right. The amm1 helps do that plus some with ease and accuracy.
Sorry if anyone feels like i'm baking clamping, not trying to. It's the way of the past and inaccurate compared to the amm1. For a cost effective tool the amm1 is a steal.
Unless the amm1 is cheaper than 250 bucks then it's actually not the better deal. But if you honestly need something that can measure taking into account for the power factor then I guess spend the extra money. 99% of people don't do it and so the industry standard is basically clamping for voltamps.
And VA isnt watts.
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Check out the package deals at droppinhzcaraudio.com!!!
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
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I had to take the 5k packages down due to very low stock. Send me a PM if you are still interested in it and I will see what I can do for you though.