crispy_chick3n
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Posts posted by crispy_chick3n
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if I remember correctly the SIA is a full bridge amplifier, I don't think the dd1 reads full bridge correctly. something about how the amps work doesn't jive with the dd1. I thought I read something on Facebook about it... idk I could be wrong. now that I'm thinking about it, I don't believe I ever got a clip light when using my dd1 on my SIA3500, although I could for sure hear distortion in the sub
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the whole "this voltage is this many watts" is not accurate at all. the best way is to match up wattages with amps and set everything clean. I'd recommend finding a different amp or speakers to better suit the other.
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yea, that 12.2 makes my eye twitch a little bit. it's my understanding that the SIA amps are supposed to be ok with lower voltage, but that's getting down there. for sure going to need some electrical upgrades. a second battery will get you by in the meantime.
once you get steady voltage I imagine you'll find a clip light with the dd1.
for reference, what are your subwoofer and crossover settings look like on the head unit? also how long has it been since you've changed the battery in your dd1?
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by rms rating you'll be at 1600 watts for the 8 speakers, so it depends how the amp sends its power out. if it is a 1500 watt amp divided between 2 channels then you'll be right in the butter zone. if the amp is 1500 watts per channel, then you're gonna have a bad time
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it usually takes a while for newer cars to have info like that online. if the body and interior didn't change from 2022/23 you might try looking those up as there is a better chance the wiring for those will be online. if you go that route I would take everything you see online with a grain of salt and test, test, test to make sure you have the signals you are looking for.
I assume you are needing signal wires for the input. if that's the case, the best and probably the easiest way to get it would be from the factory amplifier. GM likes to shove these in the trunk area usually behind some trim panels near the wheel well. I've seen them on both driver and passenger side of the trunk, so it's your guess which to try first.
now you'll need to figure out what speakers on the car actually output the bass, usually on these newer vehicles it's the front 2 doors unless it has a factory sub. if it has a factory sub you'll want that signal. if not grab the 2 with the most bass and tap into them. run them to the 4 pin Molex then it's just power, ground, and bass knob if there is one. you won't need a remote turn on as this has signal sense built in so when it sees signal on the input it turns on.
here is some wiring from the12volt for a 2018... it's the newest public info out there for an encore, but that doesn't mean its correct. I make no guarantee on if its right or wrong, just putting it here for easier reference
Radio 12V Red/Gray + Radio, gray 20 pin plug, pin 1
Radio Ground Black/White - Radio, gray 20 pin plug, pin 11
Radio Ignition (Low Speed GMLAN)
Factory Amp Turn-on (MOST Serial Data)
Left Front Speaker (+/-) Blue - Brown/Blue +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, green 16 pin plug, pins 7 - 15
Right Front Speaker (+/-) Yellow - Yellow/Black +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, green 16 pin plug, pins 6 - 14
Left Rear Speaker (+/-) Green - Green/Black +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, green 16 pin plug, pins 5 - 13
Right Rear Speaker (+/-) White - Blue/Black +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, green 16 pin plug, pins 4 - 12
Subwoofer (+/-) Green/Black - Blue/Gray +,- Amplifier near rear wheel well, gray 8 pin plug, pins 7 - 3
**** copied from the12volt****
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that rockville amp isnt doing you any favors there. on that ticket, neither are the e series subs. its all what i used to sell as entry level. (not the rockville... never that) the list i sent you would be worlds louder than anything those e subs can do
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radio out to dsp. dsp out to bass knob and 4 chan amps. bass knob out to epi. epi out to bass amp.
does your dsp not have a bass knob? if it does i would use that over a rca bass knob. just my opinion tho
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there really isn't a best website... I learned a lot from this forum years ago and just started playing with design software. over the years I've learned A LOT by just doing it.
a good place to start is with Torres box tuning calculator (there's a free link in enclosures section) and winISD (google has the link for this one)
I start with measurements in the car and transfer those into Torres to see where I'm at airspace wise. if you are going sealed then the numbers it outputs there will be roughly what you'll have for airspace. if you are going ported id usually rough in 1/4 to 1/3 extra for port displacement at this point (you can fine tune this later).
next is port dimensions. its more of a game trying to balance net volume, port tuning, and sq in of port area (generally shoot for 12-15 sq in per foot of port area as a basic guide)
once you have what you like there you can use the cutsheet to build the box if you would like, or you could take it a step further and input it all into winISD to see a few graphs of what your box should perform like. there's a good bit of setup involved with winISD and I'm sure you can find all the info you would need here on the forum using the search bar for winISD.
I'm not an expert on any of this by any means, but through the better part of the last 15 years I've gained a bit of knowledge on at least what not to do. experiment and explore with these programs and see what you can come up with. if you are stumped on something post it up with some screenshots and I'll be more than happy to give you a few pointers.
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this would get down. would even have a bit left over to get a box built and a second battery. if you are feeling spicy you can add some lithium power and rock with the D1 sub at 0.5 ohm... might be a bit much power for that sub at 0.5 ohm. the safe way would be to get the D2 coil config and run it at 1 ohm
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how many and what size subs subs would you prefer?
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what all equipment do you have currently?
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the e series is more of a budget line from sundown. you could possibly make a pair of x or z 12s move some air.
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what is your crossover set at on the dsp?
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honestly if you want to play with the big spl numbers you are going to need a serious budget... think 6 figure range. you could always save up over time.
if you are just wanting some good bass that's something we can for sure help with. I'd need to know a rough number for your overall budget and I can make some recommendations based on that to get you some good sound. you've got a good vehicle for what you want. that generation Tahoe is a proven platform for bass.
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i cant seem to find a spec for it, but you should be able to measure the rectangle and cut it out from there
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that cxa 1800.1 should get the job done with those subs. what kind of box are they in? what vehicle? what kind of electrical upgrades do you have done to the vehicle?
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that's going to be a lot of sound from only a foot or so away from your ears... personally I've never been a big fan of putting a bunch of sound in those cross bars, they can be tricky to make sound right while not blowing out your ear drums. as far as powering it a 4 channel would work well. you could use 2 channels for the mids and 2 for the highs. you would just need to know the power handling for everything you intend to put on the amp, and then shop for an amp based off of those numbers.
i will say, from an ex-installer, jeeps (edit: wrangler based jeeps) are some of the toughest vehicles to run stereo in. there's just no room to put anything. with that being said, i would look heavily into the micro/ powersports amplifiers as they will be better suited for your vehicle
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youll spend more time and effort than its worth fixing that amp. sometimes thats just the way it goes. when you tested it were the RCAs plugged in?
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the sae series is just a lower line of sundown amps... i would expect it to do rated if not a little more.
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i remember these... good for something small... single 10/12 maybe a pair of 8s. i wouldnt expect to knock the block down with it, but if it works it should put a couple hundred watts out
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you should be alright with the smaller box. it's not too far off recommended specs. i can't imagine that taking .7 off the box would cause you too much issue. going smaller on the box could increase back pressure and make it more difficult for the subs to move through their full extension. usually, you overcome this by putting more power to the subs. in your case i dont think you would need much extra power to overcome the undersize.
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1 minute ago, MacCollins said:
Oh ok that makes a lot more sense. I also didn't realize how much more space tuning the sub that low would take. Just about halves the volume I would need for the total box. I'm going to play around with some calculations some more and I'll post the updated plans soon. Seriously thank you so much you have cleared up a lot.
no problem at all. if you have any more questions feel free to post them up and ill do my best to get them answered. i usually try to check in here a couple times a day and answer what i can.
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24 minutes ago, MacCollins said:
@crispy_chick3nThe EQ that I attached was tuned at 24hz. So it looks like the calculations worked. Is it a bad thing to tune the box that low? I ran it through WinISD at 32hz tuning and didn't like the way it looked. Right now I have it in a box tuned by someone else so I am not 100% sure of the exact tuning but it is a little peaky and lacks the low lows that I am looking for. This is what the EQ looked like at 32hz.
the peak here is right in the playable band for a subwoofer. starts falling off in the 50hz range, which honestly on any of my systems thats where midbass starts to roll in at
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16 minutes ago, MacCollins said:
Oh sorry just saw your last post. Is the EQ that I attached above good? I didn't like the look of the hump at around 35 hz as it looks like it doubles in volume at that frequency. What is wrong with tuning a box that low? It looked as though the volume would be the same from 25hz all the way up which i thought was the goal but I could be 100% wrong. Thank you so much for all the help
the problem with tuning that low is most music doesnt go that low so tuning down there is wasted output.
in a nutshell tuning that low will result in a quieter performing sub on almost all music. bringing the tuning up will give more output where its useful and enjoyable. essentially it would be like only turning the bass knob up half way. will it work, yea. are you leaving a lot on the table, also yea.
Custom Enclosure Designers
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
that $100 isnt just for a design, its for a design by someone who has taken the time to learn and understand what a sub needs and where... you are paying for knowledge. $100 aint shit in the grand scheme of things. i was going to throw my name out in the ring, but im right in the same ballpark for a design