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crispy_chick3n

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  1. Amazon.com: B2 Audio 4v 10 Channel DSP with Bluetooth iOS/Android App 96 KHz - 32 Bit : Electronics b2 audio makes a super affordable dsp. I haven't personally used this one, but the reviews seem to be mostly positive toward it
  2. Amazon.com: KENWOOD eXcelon Reference DMX1057XR 10.1" Digital Multimedia Bluetooth Car Stereo with USB, 10.1" Floating Touchscreen HD Display, AM/FM HD Radio, Double DIN, Apple CarPlay or Android Auto, SiriusXM : Electronics ^^^^Best of the best in my opinion. I have installed both of the radios you have mentioned as well as this Kenwood unit and the Pioneer and Sony don't even come close. The Kenwood is a floating 10" screen, and it is pricey, but damn is it a nice unit. It also has Garmin nav built in so when you don't feel like hooking your phone up for android auto/ apple car play, you are still good to go with nav.
  3. I'd say test them out and make sure they work, and if they do then use them. If you plan to go that route you just want to match whatever speakers/ sub you plan to get with the output of those amps. No reason not to use good equipment if you have it just sitting around. Hell, I have a pair of Rockford punch 201s amps in my ride running my tweeters. I had them laying around and they were the perfect power rating for the number of tweets I'm running.
  4. give the retractors their own little "enclosure". kind of like a bowl or a box under them and then seal that enclosure to the bottom of the deck would be my best guess on how to do it. pictures would for sure help if you get around to posting them.
  5. the axxess website does not list having any compatible products for your car. you have to go down to a 23 santa fe to see anything, and when you do the dsp kit is hk4 instead of hk5. you might be stuck until they confirm compatibility or come out with a kit that works for your car. beyond that you would be limited to line out converters. if you want to have a dsp id recommend audiocontrol. the dm608 or dm810 both do line out conversion as well with the dsp.
  6. pin 85- ground pin 86- switched +12v (remote from radio) pin 87- outputs to amps pin 87a- nothing (insulate for safety) pin 30- Fused +12v from battery
  7. run a dedicated circuit for the fans to isolate them from your stereo. you can still use the remote wire to turn them on, but you will want to run a relay to give proper power to the fans. it could also be interference from the motors of the fans. as they spin, they create a magnetic field, and if the fan is close enough to RCAs that don't have the best shielding it could be introducing noise into the signal.
  8. there are several factors that will determine how much port area you need. the linked topic goes more in depth with figuring out how much area you will need for your setup.
  9. if im understanding correctly it would be like you left one coil unhooked from the amp so you were blasting the remaining coil with all the power. as long as they ohm out fine and they dont make any funny noises you are probably fine. just hook it up the right way and let it rip.
  10. the problem with doing that is you are only spinning the alt while the car is moving. so, if you are sitting still and jamming on the stereo, it would basically be like the car was shut off. still going to be draining the batteries.
  11. lol a little late is a bit of an understatement. this thread is over 17 years old. you should be just fine side firing that sub, for sure with the bracing
  12. also, there's only a small handful of people who still regularly browse this forum, your answer was stated above. start at the radio and work your way back toward the amps, tuning in order that they are hooked up
  13. I stand corrected, lc7 does not have crossover. not sure what AudioControl I was thinking of lol. however, with that lc7 you can for sure use splitters, or a rca distro to get your extra rcas. since you have control of the signal voltage (within reason) you can bump it up a smidgen if splitting creates an input voltage drop.
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