manofthehour

It won't be... but I'm not maxing it out at all... and the battery stays at 13V then drops to 12V... already tested that when I had it in the car, plus it's all temporary and honestly if that really fucks everything up it's whatever I needed a new amp anyways. Thanks for the heads up tho. edit: and correct me if I'm wrong (the amp is a cadence TXA1000D) if the voltage does drop below a certain point the amp will protect itself shutting down and a red light will display on the amp...

Ill take some picture now if ya'll want, otherwise I'll take videos tomorrow...

moving- definitely not. rattling- I don't knoooo lol JK I plan to shake the house LOL Definitely will LOL I put the LEDs I had in my car all over my room lol it's insane

its a yellow top deep cycle battery lol the guy told me they're practically made to be deep cycled and recharged lol and I'm not worried it was cheap and I'm not getting another car anytime soon.

OMG I CANT WAIT TIL TOMORROW IMMA CRANK THIS BITCH UP AND SHAKE THA HOUSE HAHAHAHAHA! THANKS GUYS!

like a fuse holder with a big ass hole for 0 gauge and putting the smaller 4 gauge into it... the fuse is 250 amp tho... i cant do anything about that... I'm not drawing from an alt just a normal battery nothing else and I'm never gonna max it out longer than a song or two (and that's a MAYBE) still haven't gotten it to work yet...

how dangerous do you think it is if I used 4 gauge on a 0 gauge fuse ?

I have and that's what I thought he was referring to lol, but I'm running 2000 watts and my Power Unit only puts out 1600 watts and I don't wanna fuck up my computer so the battery is fine for now...

random...? LOL and no... LOL

Hey ur the guy with his system in his room LOL yea my battery is a yellowtop and say NONSPILLABLE so IM GOOOOOD lol (ps my system is louder lol 1000RMS ) JK Thanks bro!

Ok I just wanted to make sure. Thanks man!

I'm putting my system in my room til I get another car. I've got my battery here and want to wire it to my amp so what do I do? + of battery to + on amp then - on battery to - on amp? Do I need to ground the battery and amp? If so, how? Thanks guys.

What size are the subs? because I can't fit anything more than 12's in my hole behind the seats... And another thing: making the port inside the box would save some space no? of course u'd have to router the edges and glass it to make it the smoothest but that was my plan because my back deck is right under the rear seats so the only way to get the subs forward would be to port the box inside... Anyway another thought is making a t-line and having it end up popping out the rear deck, that would be interesting...

I was thinking more subs forward, seal trunk, port coming thru back deck... I think that would sound better since he's sealing the trunk THAT IS if he wanted to seal his trunk up... otherwise thats a nice drawing...

I got that amp and would give it to him, but I'd rather up his highs and mids cuz the subs wouldn't fit without sum mods to the car which he doesn't want to do... edit: I know I could get everything 'cheap' for under $600 but I'd rather get him nice speakers and stuff for $600 cuz he's not into the whole shake my car and I could get those alpines to hit the mids prettty well...

x3 I was thinking bout doing that, it would sound and look sick. Then seal of the trunk so the subs show when you take the seats down...

Yea I was thinking 6.5" and the 1" tweet in the front door but I didn't get a good look at the back door... I'll text him real quick and see what it is...

Trucks too small and subs would cost $600 by themselves and his sound now BLOWS lol so $600 bucks for a complete overhaul of highs and mids sounds good then $600 for some 8" subs and amp for it next year... Really? I guess I'll have to take the doors off to be sure....

bump for other suggestions...

So my friend has asked me to up his system for him... He's got an F-150 (idk what year but not the newest one) I looked around in it and I believe it has 4 6.5" speakers and the front door has tweeters also. Everything he's got is stock. He's looking to spend around $600 on the whole thing so I looked around and found this type of setup and was looking for some feedback... HU: http://www.audiosavi...-TS1223+RB.aspx Speakers (x2): http://www.audiosavi...ERS/SPR17S.aspx Amp: http://www.audiosavi...P/HFI100.4.aspx edit: and as for wiring I'll replace everything with some scraps of wire I have and buy some cheap stuff if I need more...

All subs can hit the lows. It's just how his box is made... Don't bust him on the sub just tell him to make a new box...

yeah idk if you can see in the video but my trunk gets really skinny as it goes into the cabin, the opening is probably 38" wide and 13" tall with rounded edges so pushing forward doesn't work lol but I mayyyy seal off the trunk from the cabin cuz it's a pretty easy job since the box takes up 99% of the opening anyway...

Yea u GOTTA get that paint I used it's amazing LOL, unfortunately I can't remember anything so I'll get back to you on what I used... lol but anyways if I get a flat I'm screwed my box weighs a TON lol but yea I'll get you the specs tomorrow when I measure it and everything and I'll try to come up with some design on a computer if I have time

yea if someone doesn't think of one for you tonight ill give you the specs on my box... its not form fitting but it hits 32Hz hard (go to my build and look at the super flex vid LOL) How wide is your trunk tho? I'm not worried about height cuz the box is like 13.5"-14" high lol and I wanna say 28" deep (but I'd make it 30") and 36" wide I believe... with a 4 " port and about 3.5-4.0 cF I think and tuned to 32Hz (obviously)

Yea that's max (mines got 45x4 RMS ) LOL but I do have the KTP power pack lol There's this wire that loops and takes the bass out of the current or whatever my friend showed it to me like a year ago that should rid the small speaker of bass Or if you plug it into the existing wires it shouldn't play low freq right? mine don't and they are stock... (but i do have a high pass set to 80hz on the HU)