manofthehour

NICE! you should throw up some stats... or I can look on the website lol

15"s have more cone area and thus move more air... I want 15"s lol sorry lol anyway what do you want the cF to be and what do you want it to be tuned to? edit: and some specs of the trunk would be nice... I actually have a box for 2 12s that sits real low but is wide and some what deep if your interested... got some vids of it in my build but dont kno the dimensions off the top of my head.

Just throwing an option out there... You should not get that 12" sub and use it toward a better amp for the 10"s and buy some wood and make a good ported box for the 10"s. No reason to go get another sub really... And if you like to have SQL and are afraid the ported box will mess it up, my friend built a sick looking box for his truck the has one sub sealed and the other is ported to like 25hz? i think... lol but anyway just a thought... gL edit: his sounded really good but then again he has cadence wildbeasts which are huge 12"s lol idk too much about your subs

Ok so here's the low down... After about a week of testing the the subs max and amp max I've decided to actually tune it to the right amount... After tuning it I realized it's actually not any quieter than before... I don't know what happened but I tuned mine at about 60-70% of the max volume on the HU since that's what I usually listen to it at (loudness was also on which really is so the highs can keep up with the bass) tuned it and the gain was actually 5/7 of the way to the max (35V on the dmm)... Then I tested what it would be at 75-85% HU volume and loudness off it hit around 101V on the dmm which is good considering it used to be so high the dmm didn't read it... So that's my story... LOL in the end tuning it isn't so bad and makes me really want a bigger amp cuz these subs still got a lot to give... and my resting voltage of the battery is 14.89V which surprised me for a little yellow top optima... I'll be testing the V drop tomorrow to see how low it gets lol. Thanks for all the advice though from whoever gave it lol

Very true. I realized that it was never originally that high (170mV) in the first place more like around 1V (maybe a little less) because I played a song that had some low tunes (like 32-35Hz) and my subs would go crazy and (im gonna guess) they were clipping like hell. So I pulled over and kept it playing while I turned the gain knob down to where it didn't sound like they were clipping which is at about 8o% which looks like 1V or a little less... but still failed the tuning test... but I'm really thinking it's because the amp doesn't get enough power from the front battery and has to work a lot harder... but o well I'll be thinking more about it and can always use some advice... edit: and I still don't understand why the "safe" gain level (after tuning) is so much quieter when I have been running the current set-up for a couple months (and I always listen to it at the max) and the only problem I see is the amp getting too hot and the subs get hot too but I never found any problems with that (meaning they never smell or bottom out and to my ear they don't clip) plus the amp (rated at 1000RMS is under powering the subs rated at 1200RMS for both)

Any more suggestions?

It's all good lol edit: I went to a car audio place (local one) and the main guy I talk to said it may be because the amp itself isn't getting the power it needs so it has to work harder (that dealing with the fact that the amp gets hot)

LOL i won't yell at you since you don't have this HU my HU goes from infinity being 0 (no sound) then it's like -120dBs or something then goes to 0 dB (the max) and at 0 dB the highs are way too distorted and I'm not going to turn my HU to the max since the good listening level is from -30dB to -20dB.

? You mean the gain voltage (170mV now) and tuned it was ~3V? maybe but it sounded quiet...

lol Cadence doesn't play around there is no way that amp is too small lol. And yea my HU has a sub control its at 15 (the max) and the HU volume is at -25dB (75% all the way up). Everything I did was what the instructions told me... I just didn't like the results. its 1000 watts RMS and I've been playing it with no subwoofer problems... So idk edit: the only thing I could do instead of turning up the gains is turning up the bass EQ on the HU, but I'm gonna guess that's not a good idea lol I also have a loudness setting...

Okay so today I hooked up the dmm and followed the instructions... when I plugged the subs back in and play sum music the bass is about 100% quieter. So I check it again... yet again quiet as hell. So I just put it back to what it was and left it like that. I don't understand what's going on but my system sounds fine on 170mV and the amp isn't powerful enough to overpower the subs, but the amp does get hot, but I'm blaming it on the fact it's 100 degrees outside and I ride with the windows down. O well.

yep got it. Anyone know where to get a 50-60 hz tone unless i can use 45Hz @ -4.6dBs...

nvm it says it on the pic LOL didn't see the words below LOL thanks again!

RMS or max watts? and thanks bro

Okay, but why if I can ask? and I'm not going to buy one (right now maybe later), but I can go to a place I know has lots of them and will let me use one real quick... so what do I need to do with it?

Lol yea... but yea i definitely was planning to do that, but what do you think about keepin the gain at 170 mV?

not more than 100-125Hz, I can't remember which I set it to, but yes highs for a sub (they are RE SEX 12D4s) but I don't like the sound when it plays those highs and then hits the lows... edit: sorry not the highs speakers play lol

I have a Cadence TXA1000D that runs about 1000watts RMS wired down to 1 Ohm. I run the input gain at the lowest it can go 170 mV. My HU (Alpine IDA-x100) says it puts out 3V on the RCAs. Subsonic is at 32-35Hz my box is tuned to around that also. Bass boost is at 0dB since everyone says to do that lol. and Low pass is at 100Hz, but I want to turn it down because it hits the highs horribly... Anyway I've been looking around on forums where people have been tuning their amps. My amp runs a little hot but I'm guessing it's because its 95 degrees outside. I've also seen people using a dmm but haven't really caught on to why and what. Any help would be nice, I'm still kinda learning my way around car audio. edit: I guess my questions are: Is my input gain okay at 170 mV? What exactly is a dmm used for? (in regards to tuning an amp)

that looks like a 10" lol but i guess its cuz of the huge box lol

well damn if everything runs off the alternator haha then yea im wrong hahaha, I thought everything ran off the battery all the time. Thats all you had to say lol. Thanks man I'll just have to up the alt then.

but doesnt my diagram get rid of the dimming...???? The amp is no longer drawing power from the front battery... So there should be no reason the lights would dim... am i wrong?

but won't that do the following?: 1. get rid of the dimming. 2. charge the front battery. 3. charge the back battery.

ok man I just dont understand why not. There doesn't seem to be a reason why it wouldn't work...

uhhh i thought alternators put out amperage? edit: and here's what im talking about... the amp is fused too

thats how its wired up now