manofthehour

That was a hypothetical situation used so you could understand what I was asking. Im no electrical engineer but where does the current and voltage go? it just disappears? edit: and does this mean everyone who connects their amp to the front battery is also losing voltage and amperage on the long trip to the amp in the trunk?

wtf? LOL. Lemme try this again. In the beginning my car ran off of one battery. This battery powered everything in my car fine. I put in subs. All lights dim. I bought a new battery for the amp. The new battery isn't connected to the front battery. A 0 gauge wire runs from the alt to the back battery to keep it charged. The stock wiring goes to the front battery to keep it charged. TA-DA! DOES THIS SITUATION WORK? edit: and btw "I'm asking If I were to disconnect the two batteries" this means that the batteries aren't connected

OK smart ass I DONT HAVE THE MONEY! jeez. I'm asking If I were to disconnect the two batteries and just run the alt to the back with 0 gauge and keep the stock wiring wouldn't that eliminate the dimming because ALL LIGHTS are wired to the front battery and the amp is wired to the back one...

ONE AMP CADENCE TXA-1000D its in my sig. one on left goes to amp (4 gauge) right one goes to battery (0 gauge)

Cadence TXA-1000D and moneys tight got a good deal on the yellow top so i bought it... idk if i could fit 2 ring terminals on my alternator... but the stock wiring (8-10 gauge) is still attached so if I plugged up the 0 gauge to the battery in the back wouldn't both be fine... I just think my amp is still drawing power from the front battery because they are connected...

I have LEDs in my car, they dim and it's annoying I could care less about my headlights

I put in a yellow top optima battery the other day, wired up 0 gauge with 2 250A fuses to the front battery. The lights in my car still dim when the beat hits, I am going to the big 3 hopefully that solves it... My question is can I add the 0 gauge wire to go only the the back battery instead of the front? Would this solve the dimming problem? My other solution that I thought of was to just get rid of the front and put the optima in the front and run the big 3... would that be better?

LOL that's what I said but the parents are like won't it catch fire or something since it's really important. And it's already been towed to Toyota and they'll be like noooo you have to buy the whole harness... complete bullshit I know, but I gotta wait till monday till I can sort this mess out.

MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO WIRES INSIDE THE FIREWALL!!!!! I DIDN'T CHECK CUT THRU SOMETHING AND MY CAR WONT TURN ON!!!!! I cut one of the wires that controls something that starts the flow of gas to the engine... had to tow it out to get fixed, could cost up to $1500, just a heads up. wouldn't want u to do the same thing... edit: and my 0 gauge went perfectly under my kick boards (? idk if thats what theyre called ?) that is until I foun out the car wouldn't start...

LOL yea right thats what I meant. LOL mine was before the recalls btw lol. But yea I cut the temp gauge and something to do with the ignition telling gas to flow to the engine as the starter turns i dont remember the name. Guy at Goodyear couldn't splice it because of no slack in the wires. Toyota looking at it monday. Guy there says they'll probably have to install a whole new wiring harness: $1300 plus towing = $1500 F*** UP. Kinda sucks... one damn wire doesn't allow the car to start... fts if u ask me. I'm thinkin bout trading it in and getting this '70 chevy SS looking car, my friend told me the real name but it looks just like an SS but a wee bit smaller. But in other words im tired of the 328491 miles of wiring in all these new cars. But watever thats the story on how I f'ed up my car in one step.

05 camry le 4cyl.

I really wanna say I had to have cut something while going thru the firewall. Its hard as hell to see the wires tho.

BUMP. Still wont start.

ill update the status tomorrow, maybe the hand of God will come down and fix it... im hopin. Thanks again fer the help so far. peace.

yea no the starter turns. ill check all connections, but im positive theyre good. then ill check the firewall to make sure i didnt cut a wire, then ill disconnect the battery to see if that does it, idk, then ill switch out batteries and try that. If all else fails i'll call it dead and tow it to the dealership... I have been having problems with the engine lately. After every time i blew a fuse on the shitty fuse i was using from DB Link (advise not to use) the car would start fine but immediately the rpms would go down below normal idle rpms. like they would go to the 100 rpms... but that wasnt happening at all today... it was running normal. but just another thing bad about the engine.

LOL no its an exaggeration. I started it to leave the house after putting back the old battery. started fine. Went got gas. Started back up fine. went to eat. started back up fine. O ok i turned the key to on put it into neutral and rolled it back a foot but thats it. All while i was workin on the wire i had the door open so the inside light was on but it turns off after a while, then the trunk light was on the whole time but thats it.

no im here lol. but that click means ur starter didnt turn which yea is a battery problem, but my starter turns and does the whole runrunrunrunrunrunrunrun thing but the engine never kicks in... and ill be checking wires in the morning. btw my starter clicked wen my battery was dead a while back so i kno its not my battery unless the battery can carry a 9V charge and the engine requires a 11V to start like someone said above, but i still think the starter would need the 11V...

well im going to sleep. ill answer anymore questions and keep updates till i find out wats wrong later today (on the EST lol) around 10am. thanks fer the help so far.

Ok. but mines an 05, but ill switch out batteries tomorrow if all else fails... but last time this battery died the starter didnt crank at all, but i think ur saying that my battery is weak, but still has a little charge and that might be possible... thanks man. edit: but again the starter turns and if the starter is turning the engine and the combustion doesn't start...... thats what sounds like is happening to me........

But the STARTER TURNS... if the battery was bad, dead, or not connected well would everything electrical still work (subs, amp, lights, starter)????

But everything electrical works... starter turns, but engine doesn't start. And everything I took off the battery when i changed it went back on Im positive. and the connections are tight.

its the same battery that's been in the car for a while. But i did receive a yellow top and put that in today but only for 5 minutes then took it out and put the old one back in. The car started and ran for like 3 hours after that. turned it off and started it like 50 times. then installed the wire and tried to crank it but engine wont start.

I will in the morning. It's too dark and I don't feel like putting a bajillion lights up. But here's how it goes. There's two rubber plate type things. Then the bunch of wires going thru the rubber plate things are wrapped in their own rubber protection thing and both the screwdriver and the chisel went thru both rubber plates too easy for me to have hit a wire. but again ill check in the morning.

Ok so tonite I put in my 0/1 gauge wiring into my car. I went from the engine bay thru the firewall and thru the kick panels. I swear I didn't hit anything. I try to start my car. Starter turns, engine doesn't start. There is only one thing I could have done to do ANYTHING to this car. I used a different firewall. I used the one on the driver side. I first stuck the firewall with a flathead screwdriver to make the first hole. There are two rubber sealer things that the screwdriver went thru. Then I used a 1.5" chisel to make the hole big enough for the wire. Both times I went to the inside of the car and saw the end of the tool. I didn't force the either tool hard enough to tear a wire and I don't believe I did. Any ideas on whats happening would be appreciated... Kinda bummed out that this happens a week after I install second skin. My car is an 05 camry and the temperature gauge int he car next to the clock isnt working also if that makes any sense...

2 RE 12D4s + 1000 RMS will out bump a little boys alpine anyday (unless ur talkin bout alpine 15s lol) and 1000 RMS is under powering them... 1500 watts and you'll be straight. I know my set-up (in my sig) beats my friends 2 sony 12s and another friends 2 alpine 12s easy.