toaster
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OR! opti1232d with that box (avatar) powered by a opti1400d. i can get this for cheap right now. their is this guy, hes willing to trade my type r and my box for 2 type r 12's (dual 2 ohm) with a cheap prefab box. and im planning to get a custom box for those two. what do you think? anyone im open to any opinions
get the 2 type-rs but make sure they are not blown; that sounds like a shady deal.
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ohh i bet that made it 10 times louder lol. you think a RE SE 15 (600rms/1200max) will be louder than 2 12" R's?
All things being equal, the 2 r 12s will walk the re 15.
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dang that is awesome. never seen R's doing hair tricks. what amp were you using? and what car was it? thanks.
It was a 1610D Brutus HiFonics, in a CRX.
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PS, the hair trick in my avatar was done with 2 type-r 12s on 1600 watts. That was before I bought DCs:)
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150 for a custom enclosure is an excellent price, IF he knows what he is doing.
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Thanks guys, Fedex should deliver them tomorrow. Gonna be a fun weekend:)
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batt. to alt is about hmmm for sure no long than 5 feet. so toss out the cap asap? yeah looks like i will have to invest on my electrical. so alt first than the biggest batt. under the hood? i wanted just H/O alt and one big battery setup, and a 2k-3k watt system. but you never know, you know how it is "we just want more" lol. but yeah around 2k-3k watts is what im aiming for in the future. i seen a guy on youtube, he's running 2500k just with a hc1800 and a 260 amp Ohio Ben alt. thanks people for all the replies. i appreciate it for your time.
For what you have now, you are fine. If you are going to throw out the kicker 750, and get a 2-3kw amp, upgrade your big 3 to 1/0 IF you upgrade your alternator.
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How many amps are 1130 Watts at 12.5 volt is = ...? And what gauge is right??? 1/0 gauge is right, electrical saftynes is one of the most important thinks in caraudio, in case of carbeque.If he shared the power in the trunk with a fuseblock to 4 gauge is ok for each amp.
What is a "saftynes?"
Anyway, again, he already has a 4 gauge big 3 completed. At 120 amps @ 4 feet, he will experience less than .06 tenths of a volt drop. But, his alternator is only 70 amps. Upgrading to 1/0 is not going to make his alternator produce more current. Once the alternator is upgraded, his voltage supply for the 750 watt amp will be higher. Higher voltage = less current. You don't begin really pulling a lot of current in low power situations unless your voltage drops. Less voltage = higher current draw.
To answer your question, however:
1135 watts @ 12.5 volts is 90.4 amps of draw. Well withing a 4 gauge run of 3-5 feet. Once the alternator is upgraded, and we are not dropping below, say 13.5 volts? 84 amps of current draw.
Don't get me wrong, I am all about overkill in car audio. However, don't jump on a guy and make statements like you did when in reality, what he has is just fine for now.
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best thing i have ever read from a noob. but another battery would help him to not drop into the 11's as easily
noob in the sense that your a member with not alot of posts
HAHA Thanks. I am updating my sig right now so you guys will know a little about me.
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Nonsens, 1 run 1/0 gauge is right gauge for over these amps, together over 1000 watts, and if the 750.1 rund on 4 Ohm 1/0 gauge is still right.
Hmmm, ok? I said for the big 3, not for the amp runs. You have bought into some marketing hype somewhere along the line. Go back to physics and AC/DC 101 my friend...
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Four gauge is fine for the big 3 with what you are running.If you ever decide to run 5kw+ and need a few hundred amps of current, upgrade to 1/0. How long of a run is it from your battery to your alternator, 3-5 feet max?
When your car is running, the alternator supplies the voltage for all on-board electrical devices. While an additional battery would help for "key-off" playing time, AND provide additional capacitance to the system while the engine is running, you must remember that once your voltage drops due to heavy current demand, that extra battery becomes just another load on your stock alternator, just like your stereo system (and the capacitor; get rid of it!)
Upgrade the alternator, first. You cannot store energy you do not have.
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The first reason was money. The second reason is because they will not be daily @ 2kw, just burped.
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Level 3s with Level 4 coils and an extra spider. I am not running a lot of power, 2kw to the pair.
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if it reads fine then it should play?
No. If it reads, you could be getting a reading on the internal resistance of the meter, or a shorted coil, etc. POP it. Then let us know.
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Hey everyone. I got a bud that bought a used RE SX15 of ebay. Well he got the sub and hooked it up to 1ohm to the elemental nine.1.(elemental desighns biggest amp on the market) The amp is rated for like 1200watts. I think max would be like 1500 on it. Anyways he hooked the sub up and he said he was bumpin it and it just quit. He let me check it out and all the leads are intact, sub moves in and out free with the touch of your hand. The subs v.c.'s both read the correct ohms also. Soooo my question to you guys is what could possibly be wrong with the sub? We hooked it up in several different vehicles whith different amps and setups: same thing no sound out of the sub...None of the amps go into protect or shut off, and all the amps have sufficient power and are well grounded. Please help! I noticed a slight spot by the terminal on one of the v/c's it lookes like melted a smidget. barley noticable. maybe from the factory? no black burnt colors on the lead though? So J/W what you all may think? And my freind was also wondering if it would be possible to take a RE SXX recone and put that in his SX basket and magnet? He was curious if that would work? I don't know much about Re at all so thats why I ask. One more question: Has anyone had problems with the RE SE, or any Re subs + lead wire breaking? I have seen 2 diff RE SE15"s with either 1 or both + lead wires snapped.
remove sub leads from amp, and "pop" the sub with a 9v square battery. if it pops, you have other issues, let us know.
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OK so I am jumping on board the DC wagon! Currently running 2 Type-R 12s, and getting 148.6 @ 43hz. I am looking forward to getting these into an enclosure tuned a tad higher, and breaking 150s in USAC Stock 0-600 class.
As a side note, Thorshammer and Rusty are both very helpful, the customer service really impresses me. I appreciate your help guys!
When they arrive, videos:)
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This is mine...
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Flea market junk x 2.
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You can't beat them for the money.
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My kids and I started this project a couple of weeks ago, I have always wanted a CRX and finally found a good one for a decent price. My 2 16 year old daughters have grown up around spl competitions, but we took a break here a couple of years ago. Now that my son is getting old enough to appreciate the work it takes to build acar, we decided to jump back into it:)
We didn't want to build a one-note wonder with this car; we wanted it to get LOUD! I have a fairly accurate ear-o-meter, having judged USAC show for many years. Right now I predict it will meter in the high 140s in the kick, and maybe even break 150 (our immediate goal) after the electrical is finished. I will let everyone know how it fares after the competition.
Anyway, this car is FAR from complete...
The MB Quart DSC2000.1D is STARVED for voltage. We have a new 165 amp alternator on its way, and should be here before the first show of our year in Memphis, TN on the 27th. Also not finished deadening the car, just have the doors complete.
And, as always, electrical...
Anyway, leave me some feedback!
www.rustyself.com
Check out our latest hair trick!
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Posted · Edited by toaster