hzsogood
-
Posts
319 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by hzsogood
-
-
Also youll probably want to buy a jasper circle jig. For car audio its one of the best tool accessories for us lol
Got one , but its still in the packaging
cant wait to use it tho.. Gonna be alot less time consuming that making my own circle jig and so much cleaner than the jigsaw -
Thanks again..
noob question.. Lets say i wanted to flush mount some aeros, which be be Im assuming about a 1/8 notch,, What bit would I use for that. Im not to skilled or knowledgeable on the custom things you can do with routers ( especially in CA ) but would like to learn a bit more..
Or if I had a box fully built but wanted to add another baffle on top of the one I have.. Is it the Flute ( straight bit )?
Obviously the holes would be cut out already in the first baffle, so what bit would I used to A) put an oversized piece of mdf on the existing baffle and then just follow along the box for and exact match, and
Matching the existing port and sub opening holes // Man I hope that made sense to you guys
-
Thanks guys. I got 3 good choices now
Any suggestions on bits? I am a carpenter so I do use my router a bit at work too, ( not like a cabinet maker or anything ) But I would like to have probably the 10 most used bits.. As for CA builds, the only thing I think I would need is a few round overs, and a flush..
Anywho, Im guessing its best to go with good bits right off the bat? Seeing as how if you get cheap stuff you'll probably make more work in the long run? Just seems like Bits are something where the more you pay the better they really are..
Ive seen a couple of bosch , craftsman, and Freud kits that look nice, but dont know if you guys have anything not so "mainstream" thats just as good for less?
-
Never had one of my own, bought new, Only a hand me down Dewalt from my step dad, but the motor/brushes are shot
Sooooo , just wondering what others are using.. Im guessing they are all around the same RPM, and that they all fit the same bits etc, but I seem to see alot more accessories/bits for Bosch Routers. SO as of nopw thats a top pick, but I also think the new Porter Cables look nice too.. What do you guys think?
-
exhaust pipe for length, thats what I used
-
Could I get a quote from you for a 96 pontiac grand am gt, 3.1 v6
Didnt see any threads about it already, or anything on your site.. Thanks!
-
Holy shit matt, and teamht.. Ive been looking at this thread for about 4 minutes and havent read one word thanks to your ava
-
My box is 15h x 33w x18d , which is 4.06 cf internal volume.. My port is 3" x 23" and the subs ( 2 12 lvl 3s ) are .15 .. So, Just wondering how everything kind of fits together mathematically
-
I'd tune kinda low. Fs on the level 4s are super low
lvl 4s w lvl 5 coils
Im wondering what amp would be best.. I hear the RFs are current hungry, but I dont wanna have to do my entire electrical in my current car.. Im just hoping my 105 amp alt , with batt under hood, and possibly a batt in the trunk will be good enough for now, until I get my new car.. Current car is a 96 grand am gt, 2 door -
2 Audioque 3500.1Ds...i run mine strapped at 1.4 ohm daily and they LOVE IT!!!
there inexpensive, VERY POWERFUL, VERY RELIABLE and love playing music all day
How much do they pull on your electrical? I didnt want to dump to much into electrical ( basically alt , big 3 etc ) on my current car , because I might be grtting a new one.. Would an amp like that, sundown 3500 etc be ok with just running a big batt in the back?
-
listen to this guy
Haha SO ive been told
Thanks you guys.. The dimensions I gave you were for my current box for my 2 lvl 3s I have now.. I just didnt know If that was big enough for lvl 4s, or if the 4s used a little bit more enclosure.. That is pretty close to the absolute max, LxWxD, because of how I have to slide it in my truck, due to the rear seat upper and lower braces.. What the best enclosure calc to use.. Im trying to find exactly what the one I have now is, and then will be taking size/tuning suggestions .. More than likely will being going with 2 lvl 4 12s and a RF T1500-1 bdcp
-
A larger box will be more effecient if you're running low power. If you're running say 3x rated Rms then a smaller box would be good to keep the sub under control and from unloading if that makes sense to you.
Yessir, TY.. Been a while since Ive been in the game, so just doing a little refresher course
-
What s the retail on these ? 150?
-
10s vs 12s all things being equal the 12's should be louder. As far as sound...its all in the box. 10's will get just as low and loud as 12's.
Im on my cell, and trying to get the size ( net ) and tuning of my box that I have right now figured out, but I cant get a calculator to work on here.. I THINK the dimensions I gave above puts my current box around 3.5 cf after sub and port displacement is that enough for lvl 4 or XL 12s? amd also , is there an advantage to having a larger box? Generall asking because if I get 12s they will only be able to get around 3 cf , but If I go with 10s, 3 cf would give me about 1 CF more than I need.. I hope that made sense
-
Obviously more cone area , moves more air, But as far as the spl part of it, In general how much louder are 12s gonna be over 10s with the same power.. Everyone including myself, has always said, if you can fit bigger, go bigger.. But Im debating new subs now to replace my lvl3s but my trunk is pretty small.. So I cannot put a larger box in there than what I already have for my 2 12s which is 15Hx18Dx33L , Port is 3"x23"
-
Ahhh okie dokie I went camping up there beautiful.......Tettegouche..... I have niece and nephews that live in Marble. And WeFest is a blast indeed.
Back to topic.
haha no worries.. Im trying to sell the burban.. I want a 2000-2002 mustang gt, or Trans am ws6 .. lol I dont know how Im gonna sell these it but im gonna try
-
Also.. what can be done to a 5.3 liter motor as far as performance?
-
I say just buy it from your mom. You won't have payments and you'll have what sounds like a good vehicle.
We have a cash for clunkers thing here, too. One dealership will give you $4500 for your vehicle, no matter what condition it's in.. but I heard from somebody that your new vehicle has to be $15,000 (before "discount") ..and another dealer giving $2000 for anything, but their vehicles were wayy overpriced before this and probably even more now ($2k probably added to everything rofl)
If you can afford the payments just use your car and continue trying to sell the suburban.. try ebay? surely somebody would buy it with those miles..
Edit: Also, I don't see any G8's at that dealer.. or fusions with under 10k miles
i noticed the G8s or fusions were not on the site as well.. They had 2 trucks come today when I was looking, So Im sure they will be up soon
-
Off Topic sorta how north are you, I lived in Detroit Lakes for about 6 yrs
FUn little party town you got there.. And Wefest is a blast
Im up in Duluth
-
So, did you take it around to dealers today?
Haha.. yeeeaaaaaa.. WEll even tho NADA and KBB show it at an AVG trade in @ $6000, they didnt wanna give me anywhere near that.. THey said it would be to hard to sell in a market up here.. Which Unfortunately I cant argue with them on.. But to low ball me @ 2500 was a joke.. I laughed and and said have a good day
BUT We have a Cash for clunkers deal where you can trade in your car and get a Minimum of $3500 , no matter how big a POS it is.. It doesnt even have to run.. So Im thinking my Mitsubishi that Im trying to get rid of ( 02 diamante ) that has caused me nothing but problems, OR the suburban, I will be able to dump off to them and get a good trade in.. hopefully $5000? and if so they look like they have alot of descent cars there.. G6, G8, New Fusions with less than 10k miles .. Any one have this in their area or no how it works?
the video is on the left side
-
take the sticker off the side, bag it and fabricate it to lay (now you have a snow plow), chop the top, fiberglass wide body kit, shave everything including the tires, dont change the interior youll use the space to haul your laid out 'busa, wait wait, custom dash 50's era gauges, and 2 tvs one for you an one for your komodo dragon. but honestly id just buy a rear seat an flip it. suburbans are played out.
Your humor isn't humorous . nice try tho .. And btw.. Contribute all you want , ( even with ridiculous ideas like your entire post ) But Not once did I ask you if Suburbans were played out. So if YOU have a problem with the Suburban, maybe YOU should PM ME..
-
my opinion get it i live the the farthest north city in pa and we get about 2 feet of snow at a time and my dad drives a e150 conversion van 2wd and it handles great in the snow npo problems at all (other then gas milage) just get good tires and u r set i would get it
Yea I m in northern MN .. we avg 140" of snow a year.. Im used to the 2 WD thing.. But just wondering what mods cost, how much suspension costs, and all the other little things ill need to make it look descent
-
still thinking..gonna take it to a few dealers today and see what I can get for it ,, Ive been looking at civics , accords, atimas, camrys and corollas for a while.. maybe something can be worked out
-
If you're not too worried about 2wd (can use another vehicle or good tires and wait till roads are plowed and don't live in the middle of nowhere, etc.) then get it.
A/C can be added in for about $1k (at least it can on new vehicles that don't have a/c) and I'm sure you could get a seat somewhere.. and pw aren't THAT important.
Ugh Yea , but Im starting to see it for what it is, and what it will actually be used for .. the 2wd doesnt bother me, nor do the windows.. But whats the point of a SUV? to be able to haul ppl .. and thats about it.. Its just me, but it would be nice to have the room , but then again the mileage will suck.. Unless I can find a nice Performance package somewhere ( Intake exhaust, reprogrammer, air foil etc etc ) But then It STILL would only get maybe 24-25 hwy . But I mostly just drive in town.. Its a bummer because I WANT a new car, but my credit sucks, sO I would need a big down payment on something.. and I doubt I would get anything for trade on this.. NADA says like $7000 for an average tradr.. But I think thats with second row seating and carpet.. ALl I really want and need is a nice good, reliable car , and bad.. My Diamante has nickle and dimed me since the beginning , so then I started looking at new civics and corollas, accords etc.. SOmething thats reliable and able to add a few performance items and looks a little bit.. Im just getting bummed out now
.gif){kind=small}
cant wait to use it tho.. Gonna be alot less time consuming that making my own circle jig and so much cleaner than the jigsaw
Matching the existing port and sub opening holes // 
Need a new Router
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
Looks very nice.. But I think you answered my question before the rabbeting bit
I think you explained how to add a second baffle to make it a flush mount , correct? I just wanted to add another baffle, no flush mount. So Its still the same ( flush mount bit ) right?
But since we are talking flush mount.. How would you do it from scratch? being as your holes must line up perfectly