hzsogood
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Posts posted by hzsogood
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I made the box so that I could flip it and face to the rear or the front of the car. I tried both configurations, with it facing the front of the car it had a muddy sound, to the rear actually made the rattles worse, facing up sounds the best to me. There were two 8" subs stock in the rear deck and I am no longer using them and took them out and it actually sounds better now. I could achieve the same sound quality with the sub forward but I would have to leave the back seats down and I still usually have passengers so I couldn't go with that. I had the same concerns with it being to close but it has about 4" of clearance so I really don't have too many worries. I would defiantly have it facing the rear if I was going for any type of SPL or metering, but I am just looking for a nice back massage while cruising usually don't have it full tilt! Thanks for the compliment on the car, next video I should show what kind of get up and go she has even with 200lbs in the back, can you say 160 mph! And yes I am still waiting on my Second Skin to arrive in the mail
try again after the SS, Only reason its gonna sound better facing up is because those 8s you took out is giving it some breathing room to fire into the cabin
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You should face the box towards the rear, I feel its far too close to the top of the trunk. Nice car and system though!
x2
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My lvl 3 12s were in a 4 cf enclosure that was 2.9 after port and sub displacement tuned to 36 hz. Sounded great was doing mid 40s sealed up off only a Memphis mc1000d which is1100x1
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12s ported without a doubt 4 cf net with about 60 sq inches of port area if you have the room.. n tune @35
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I have used a couple set ups in the trunk of my Monte Carlo. I have used two 15"s in a 6 cube box using either subs and slot port forward, tube ports forward, subs back, and am currently changing my box to subs and tube ports forward. 12"s would be a HELL of a LOT easier to design and build a box for. Yea my box is small for two 15"s, but it works. This is some set ups i have done. They aint pretty.
Tube ports forward and subs back(inverted) 15"s Personal favorite so far
Subs up slot port forward 15"s
Subs and slot port forward 15"s
Sealed Sub back 15"
Sealed angled back, subs forward 15"s
Sub up port forward 18"
Does this help answer your question?
how would it dude? We still dont know what car he has... But if its a monte, then it looks like hes set huh
even tho your really cramping those subs in there -
How about you guys wait for him to say what kind of car he has?
I bet if he has a mustang or something similar he cant fit 2 15s in the trunk, but I bet if he has a car like me, a 1985 Delta 88 or something like a 1972 Impala he can fit 2 15s.
thats what I was thinking... One of the Coffin trunks you could fit a dead horse in
But yea, OP.. Kinda need details here.
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I knew I seen a thread like this but I couldn't find it..
So im wondering what are some ways to have a nice system w/o doing a wall in a car.. I would like to keep my backseat(:
If you can please explain the different once and include a pic it would be nice!
Im looking to do 2 15" but not fully sure depending on space and what not!.
Thanks
what the hell car are you driving that has a big enough trunk for 2 15s ported without suffocating the subs in there and having a fold down seat?
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i proved louder this way, my trunk is 100% sealed like 95% right now sealed off the rear deck, one little peep hole i gotta cover
thanks, i love the GAs
Nice man, Something weird i did find out.. When we did testing we used the same sub and amp from a master vehicle and put in in 3 different grand ams, just running speaker wire for the testing and shutting the trunk.. Numbers ..
Mine ( 96 Grand am GT 2 door ) 142.1
friends ( 2001 GT 2 door ) 142.6
Show participant ( 2003 SE 4 door )139.8
Intervals were about 10 minutes apart.. But for some reason the 4 door was down quite a bit
But its nice to see the GAs on here, looks nice btw
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Also does that port seem a bit small for the dimensions I had for that box? I was getting some port noise w my lvl 3s
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Haha Thor should know he fucks with 10's and finally 12's whooo
Fo sho
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Lets think smaller lol
10's depending on power .8-1cu after displacement making boxes around 2.5cu
12's I'll let ya know if they like 3cu this weekend lol
Nice !! What are you running this weekend?? Well at least the grand prixs have room, and so to the newer 99+ grand ams , but my 96 GA has a tiny ass trunk, and i dunno if I should try smething different or not.. Ive always had 12s, probably beause it was the best combo for cone area with the limited room I have.. And the car is only a commuter car/ Beat box
So I dont wanna dump a ton of $$ into this one.. which Is why I was checking out 10s and maybe even a single 15 with alot of power.. I wanted to have a daily setup with at least 2K rms .. I already miss my lvl 3s and not having beat is boring as chit, especially when im in my car 8-10 hrs a day -
WEll I sold my lvl 3s and I THOUGHT I had them NET @ 4.06 after displacement , but for some weird reason that was not the case
It was 4.06 Gross, .87 for port displacement ( 3x13.5x23 ) and .30 for the subs.. So I was only at about 2.9 CF net
They still sounded great and I put up my best #s ever with that box ( 145.4 legal , 146.8 driver door open off an Alpine MRp-M2000 )
Also along with the net of the box only being 2.9 CF for 2 12s, I was getting port noise because I didnt have enough port either ( probably should have gone 4" wide )
Which brings me to my question.. If I actually make the optimum enclosure plus more port, this box will be WELL over 5 CF .. It was nearly impossible to get this one in there, so its gonna be tough to go any bigger than MAYBE 4.3 cf GROSS .. So Should I go with 12s again and completely fill the trunk again, or go with 10s and make the optimum size enclosure for them.. Because Im guessing 2 lvl 4 10s would only need about 3 cf MAX, then the port and sub displacement would make it about 4 , Basically what the box I had my 12s in was..
Suggestions?
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2" wide and 48 inches long I need 4 pieces like that and to save space try and make them out of half inch mdf or thinner if possible.
He means 2 inches on the inside or the outside of the 45 degree cut
I think
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got my level 3 today and put it in. its running on a 760 watt sony amp of a friends for now in a 2^3 ft box ported to 30 HZ (after displacement of the sub and port) and i must say sounds GREAT best thing ive bought! thanks for the great product
Wait til you get a real Amp on it. You ain't heard nothin yet. Tested one of my lvl 3 12 on a jl 1000/1 in a. 1.5 cf enclosure tuned to 36 hz. Sounded awesome hit hard got much lower than I was expecting and took the power like a champ.
Any idea what amp your gonna go with?
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That would be OK. One of our adjustable voltage 150 amp units would help out quite a bit over the stock alternator, we could build one in the OEM housing for around $250 and it would still be durable and have good idle output.
So what's the amperage ofthe stock alt in these cars? I thought it was 105 ?
I would get the big amp you first mentioned but I'm not sure if I wanna dump $700 into this one. So what's the difference between the 150 adjustable you mentioned and the one for 449. Besides the amperage obviously
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hoping to burp higher than the 145.1 i did the day after i put them in, i need a batt for the back.. once they get broken in im hoping for 146.
Why not firing back?? I have a 96 Grand am gt , 2 lvl 3 12s and a memphis 1000d, did a legal 145.4 .. No deadner or electrical.. THey dont do to great firing into the cabin.. My buddy had the same issue w his 2001 gt
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That vehicle uses a small CS130 unit. We only build large case units, because small case HO alternators do not have enough cooling or low RPM output. We have a late model large housing conversion kit for $449. It puts a large 220 amp unit in place of your CS130. Because we use the larger housing, our unit has great output at idle, and bomb-proof durability for daily use. We machine the housing and include a clearance bracket so that is has the same bolt pattern as your OEM unit. On your particular vehicle, it requires you to grind the OEM alternator bracket for clearance. Our complete kit is $449 shipped.
Gotcha man, TY.. Im trying to decide If Im gonna do a full blown setup in this car or not.. If NOT, Would the stock electrical, one run of 1/0 run back and a 3100 be fine for a true 3K rms?
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Well as we know there are TONS of vids on the board, with Steve and alot of the staff having Huge hits on Youtube, Its almost hard to find the best of the best in the mix of everything.. So I guess this thread is for the must see vids.. Broken Windshields, 160+ db, Insane flex, The best hairtricks, etc etc .. I dont know if there is a thread like this, but if there is, please link me to it .. Thanks
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Yeah Bill thats true i know, but he wants feedback, he gets feedback
Im a festool-fanboy lol
Ive used a few Frestool products.. Good , Hell yea.. Practical? lol not for me
I have a 6 yr old Makita, and 2 yr old Craftsman circ saws with the thick shoe, and use them both on the job everyday , and they both work great, But I can still understand your fanboyism for frestool.. They make awesome stuff -
Here is the ones i use.
First is the down spiral cutting bit. This is used to cut the baffle as well as the cutout for the flush mount. On the flush mount, it will poke through a little to create a pocket in the sub baffle.
Roundover bits are to make all the edges of the box nice and purty ( side note ) Do not use these if you screw your boxes together. The bit will NOT like the screw heads
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2008063/WHITESIDE-Roundover-Bits.aspx
Rabbet set is used for making a lip in wood. Like when having two existing baffles and you want to flush mount the sub.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001864/3420/Rabbet-Set-12-SH.aspx
Flush trim bit is used for a few things. first would be making a second baffle over and existing cutout and wanting them to match in cutout size, but no flush mount. Also used to cut patterns using templates. Last thing to use it for it to trim any over hang on the edges of a box. For example, if you get everything together and the top overhangs a little bit, you can cut off the extra using the side of the box as a template
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004655/7487/Flush-TrimPattern-Cutting-Bit-12-D-x-112-CL-12-SH.aspx
great list man, thank you!
Questions.. The spiral bit seems like it would chew up on the wood on the flush baffle, unless the Jasper jig holds it perfectly in line?
And what sizes should I go with for these, unless the ones you linked are the diameter, and depth sizes I would want
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Dayum.. How about you just make me a list of the best 5-10 bits I will need if you get some free time lol
A kit would be nice, then I can add a few to it, if I need some more
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Just checking out Woodcraft now.. Little overwhelming considering theres 100s of bits. Are there general sets with the most commonly used, I cant find them.. Yet..
Another thing, when Tracing existing holes, Im gonna want a flush bit with a bearing, But like you said , to make notches for the carpet, obviously the bearing cant be on there, so what bit will I need to dig down that extra 1/8".. I see a bunch of flush bits with blades on the bottom of it, but without a bearing, doesnt it dog into the wood?
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When I do the cut for my flush piece I want to cut into the baffle by 1/8' or so. This allows a channel to have the carpet staples to hide in.
This part comes down to making sure you know what depth you are cutting so you don't cut too deep into the sub baffle when cutting your flush piece.
Ahhh i gotcha man, sorry I mis read i think.. I thought you were talking about the width more than the depth to tuck the carpet in ..
So how do you like your bits? Just as good as the Freuds and bosches Im assuming?
I need a list of all bits you would have , need or want.. I wanna get something ordered up this week.
Thanks again to you and everyone who posted
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If all you want to do is add another baffle, then all you need is a flush trim bit. Make sure the bit is long enough to have the bearing ride on the original hole and the bit tall enough to cut through the thickness of the 2nd baffle. I use a 2" flush trim bit for mine.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16976
When I do flush mount I like to stack both faces together and find my pilot hole for both at the same time. Once i drilled through both pieces I have the center start point for both. Then I can pull off the flush piece and cut the sub cutout. Once I have the sub cut out, I will attach the flush piece and glue them together. Once that's done, I will cut my flush hole out.
I like to cut back into the first piece with the bit by about 1/8 this allows the carpet and staples to recess into the baffle and allows the sub to sit flush without any staples heads poking up.
So you cut the Flush piece while both pieces are together? See thats where I would have got something wrong I guess.. I guess I would have clamped both pieces together, found my pilot, took them apart, cut the sub opening and the flush piece separate then glued them together.. If you cut the flush piece while its glued to the sub baffle , wont you cut into the sub baffle a little bit since the flush baffle is obviously larger than the mounting diameter? Or are you just that good
even tho your really cramping those subs in there
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Sundown SA-15 Pre-Order
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
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dude it says it right above the pre order prices...
$219