MACnonsence6

maybe there nudists

looking for 18" baskets would like 12 spoke but 6 will work i guess need everything in pairs also looking for 18" cones to accept 3" coils

my bad

is there a way i can hook my ps2 up to my laptop via there ethernet ports. i searched on google but i was unsure how to word it and didnt find anything.

mines only vented in the basket if i got a diff coil with this motor wich i may do with some comps then i could plug the pole vent. ima look into what i can do with these motors

yes i ment pole vent. and alright looks as though i wont plug it. the way they do comps here for this class is music so i dont think plugging the vent would help me out at all it kinda seemed rather silly anyhow.

ive read that you can be louder by plugging your vent hole but i feel like my sub would over heat? i have an re se that im gona take to some comps so im trying to do w,e i can to get louder can someone tell me the pros and cons of doing this

2 18s are not fitting in ur trunk. how ever if you are truely dedicated you can or might be able to fit 2 18s in a box on ur back seat.

my advice to you being that i have a 98 neon and know what a neons trunk looks like is to do 2 12s trunk sealed facing the cab u would do better numbers then trying to stuff an 18 in the trunk

i like fi's recones-just saying- never used fixmyspeaker but when i reconed my 12" re se it came with a flatwound coil something i didnt pay extra for

no multiple 10s or 8s one single 12 i really like that DDZ12 but the n3 is pretty nasty as well wonder how well they would compare to each other if at all? the n3s half the price though so im thinking there wont even be any comparison

any DD dealers on here that can pm me a price of there m3a mono amp that z looks pretty amazing have u had any personal experience with it?

ima check out the DD no word for the fi i listed though

this is for daily and comps more so looking for a supid loud 12 98-neon budget is open electrical needs to be worked on looking into getting an alt made last time i asked i think the biggest i could get was a 200amp that and as many batts as it takes to run my 4k amp as far as not doing 2 bad ass 10s i want a retardedly bad ass 12 and 4 cubes is my max really 6 is but then i dont have trunk space for batterys

so after owning just a single 12" re se 12. ive decided that i want to do a single 12 set up but i want something alot better then a se im looking for pure spl something that you guys have seen people get 140s+db at 30 ish herts looking for a 12 that can perform very well in 4 cubes or under and withing mid 20 to mid 30s power the sub would be getting is 4k planning to use this in a trunk car sub firing forword trunk sealed i was looking into the fi n312 maxed d1 with cooling and 7 spiders. advice/recomendations?

that was all i needed to decide to do it. thanks for the pic

why not? i was thinking of doing it but i wanted to see some pics first

anyone have any pics of one. ive been on google images with no luck.

looking to build one of my other se motors into an 18 and putting it in a t-line. so im looking to build another one. so im looking for 18" cones,18" 12 spoke basket. some heavy duty spiders and a coil that can easily take almost 2k rms daily. coil needs to be able to be wired down to 1 ohm

wonder how far u are from me i didnt know the 315 was that big of an area

hey im in 315 to where abouts u at im out in lisbon 13658 if that helps im up north so no where near ny city

been on google searching just as the title states and i havnt found anything yet. does anyone know off hand what ny states laws as far as systems are concerned. or if theres a site that lists all state car audio laws.

my ap1800 was doing the same thing turned out a wire had came loose with in the bass knob and was touching the other causing the amp to go in and out of protect try taking the plug from the knob to the amp completly out and see if the problem persists.

I also think my fuel filter could be to blame because idk when it was last replaced also well before going out and throwing money into something that u dont know if its the problem or not go out to your car there should be a lil peak hole where the cam would be take that thing off and uall be able to see in and see the cam gear. then take the plug out of the 1st cylinder put something long thats sorta soft into there till it hits the piston. put a mark on it somewhere. then take a socket wrench and turn ur engine untill u see the mark on the cam gear, there will be a mark on the timing cover as well where u marked ur stick and when the mark on the gear matches the mark on the timing cover that should be top dead center. so if ur mark on ur stick can still go up after those marks aline or if it hits its peak and goes down before that mark ur timing is off. sorry if thats hard to understand i cant spell to well

my car is a 98 neon and has that same engine and has that same problem. i had a cel on though for a misfire ended up being my timing belt was off by one tooth. so check your plugs,wires,plug gap, coil pack then check your timing ill bet urs is off a tooth as well as far as switching octanes these engines piss away higher octane fuel they love cheap stuff. ive had bad results with higher end plugs they like cheap plugs,cheap wires, and cheap gas