fr34kout

Idk how you guys break so much shit lmao. SMD 18" on a SAZ 4500D doing 147.8 @ 39 hz daily. All I've broken is my rear view and it's been almost a year of daily bumpin

I just ordered through Summit Racing since Vitacy posted the link, but I probably should have waited and just went straight through you lol. I've had my D3400 sitting since about august, and not guna have access to my battery charger for a few weeks anyways. Oh well, thanks anyways Nathan appreciate it.

You're magical, I have no idea how you found that but my google-fu and site searching must be fail. $15 shipping is a little better, guess I'll just bite it lol

This is the only one I've been able to find online for a decent price (551) This is the one I'm looking for (555) Crutchfield says it can't ship this item to Hawaii or Alaska, and SSA and Mechman have shipping as $35 and $38 when the item is only $25. Edit: And yes I did check Summit Racing, they only have the 551, not the 555.

Summit Racing only has the 551, I was looking for the one with double top mounts

Summit.com or Summit Racing?

Can anyone list or PM me a price? I'd like to get this shipped through USPS if possible, went on Mechman and SSA and price as $24.99, but shipping through UPS was over $35 on both sites. I really don't feel like paying more for shipping than for the item lmao. Nathan would I be able to order straight through you? Been waiting on one of these from the Hawaii rep since August but on the rare occasion I see him he never has it. Zip code would be 96707, thank you.

I've heard that pretty much all of the shops down here that carry RE have been waiting forever for recones, warranties, etc and some of them are considering dropping RE. Just saying, the shop probably isn't as bad as you think and it very well could be problems on RE's side.

Where does it show the cure time? Normally with recones you line everything up, put the CA glue where you need it, spray the activator, then quickly push everything down. After that use clamps on the spider and surround and let it sit for 24 hours.

Since so many people are talking about the pricing, can one of the DC reps shoots me a price on the 5k shipped to 96707?

In this scenario the amp was actually wired to .5 ohms, don't know if he ever clamped it or not.

Idk I've seen 2 18" havocs on a Stetsom 7k daily, and those are comparable to BL's. Sure when you're talking about 10's mechanical limits come into play, but if we're talking just the coil being able to hold up then one AQ 3500 should be perfectly fine for 2 bl's. I'd be comfortable with an AQ 2200 to each or maybe even a RF / Sundown 2500 if you were smart with it and know what you're doing.

Bingo. If your scoped your amp on regular music, this boosted music most likely had a stronger signal. It's not because the songs had minimal clipping in them, it's because your gains were too high for these songs. Instead of only clipping where the song does, your amp was most likely forcing a clipped signal on every bass note which caused it to draw too much current and eventually melted your fuses.

What is the MSRP and actual pricing on the DC5k? From what I was hearing the price tag on those were kind of up there. Plus we all know where they got the board from lol

Awesome video, the way I look at it the Sundown was the winner in my book. You're getting 5600 watts out of a 4500 watt amp. The rise was .03 ohms higher, and the voltage drop was .2 volts more? The way I see that is if the electricals were even better (more batteries, the car on, etc) the Sundown would have outperformed the DC in straight output because it seems to be drawing more current. Price point is another factor, I know what I paid for my 4500 but I have no idea what the DC 5k is going for. In my system, I'm clamping 2600 @ 3.67 ohms with voltage dropping to around 13.2 out of my 4500. More than impressive if you ask me.

There are some cool Rockford guys down in South Africa http://www.facebook.com/pages/PP-Car-Sound-Specialists-South-Africa/136286526404660 Not sure if they have an actual website

Regardless of if you agree or not, why would you suggest a smaller amp? Like I mentioned, there are many ways of throttling the power out of your amp (volume knob, sub level on deck, gain knob on amp). That and I never said using a DMM to set your gains was a good way to do it, I simply said if that's the only thing he had to set it I told him how to do it and explained that he won't actually be getting the power that you think you would be getting. The only reason I did that last post is because he asked about how it would be done if you wanted to adjust it after knowing your rise at a certain frequency. I never said your rise will always be the same, because we all know that's far from the truth.

I'm not saying to count on it to save you, I'm saying that if you are using a DMM to set your gains, your power output is going to be much less than you actually think because of box rise. You may think you're getting a certain amperage out of the amp, but because of rise you will be getting 2-4x less, this of course will change with frequency.

Well it lets you set the amp safely until you can actually oscope it. Like I said earlier, I have a 4500 wired @ 1 ohm, but after rise I'm @ 3.67 ohms and only seeing 2600 watts (which is still extremely good for that high of an ohm load). The reason people buy such big amps is to try and get as much power from the get go instead of trying to fight box rise. A lot of people would be surprised if they clamped their amps and saw how much power they were actually getting.

Basically when you use a clamp meter, it will show you the voltage and amperage coming out of the amp. You would want to start this with the gains set with your DMM if you were to do it this way. Burp a frequency, say 40 hz and clamp the speaker wires coming out of the sub amp. The clamp meter will show you the voltage and amperage coming out of the amp. I'll just do the setting it with a DMM @ 3k example and run with it. If you set the voltage to 55 volts, and your box rise ended up @ 5 ohms, it would show 55 volts and 11 amps. When you multiply the 2 together, you get 605 watts. Now from here, it's not so much as trying to get up to 3k, it's trying to match your output to the amps specs. I'm going to slightly change the example and use my 4500. So say I started off @ 55 volts with my amp, but instead after box rise I was @ 4 ohms. 55 / 4 is 13.75, so the amp would be putting out 55 volts and 13.75 amps. Multiply those 2 together, and you get 756 watts. Now if we go look up the specs of the Sundown, it's rated to do 900 watts @ 4 ohms, so I would want to get my output up to 900 watts. This part might be a little confusing, but this is how you would do that. 900 = 4x(x) with the 4 being your actual load after rise. So then 900 / 4 = 225. Then you want to take the square root of 225 which is 15. You want the amp to put out 15 amps, and since your ohm load is 4 ohms you want the voltage to be 4 times higher. So 15 x 4 = 60, you would set the voltage coming out of the amp to 60 to get 900 watts @ 4 ohms.

Oh and @ 1 ohm it's basically just square root. At a true 1 ohm load, the voltage and amperage coming out of the amp will be the same. So if you set it to 55 volts, it would also put out 55 amps for a total of 3k watts. In reality, the amperage is going to be lower because of box rise, resulting in less power. But you can still use the DMM to pretend to set your gains to the power you want now, and you'll know you're even safer because of box rise. So if you set it for 3k @ 55 volts like you were saying, you could end up with something low like 500 watts if your box rise is crazy and you're seeing something stupid like 5 ohms.

The DMM would be super useful if you also had a clamp meter to go with it. If you can find your actual impedance after box rise at a certain frequency, then you can more accurately set your gains with a DMM. The only thing is you're going off of the manufacturers specs. Say you were @ 1 ohm and had no box rise at all. With picture perfect electricals you would be able to set the gains to match the specs of the amp, but if your voltage is dropping the wave will start to clip sooner than that. So basically the DMM is a way to set your gains a little better than eyeballing it, if you pair it with a clamp meter it would be relatively accurate. Of course these aren't going to replace an oscope, but they allow you to set your gains pretty safely until you can get access to an oscope. It's actually good that people don't think about box rise when they use the DMM to set gains, that way they actually get much less power than they think and they're less likely to blow the sub from overpowering it before they can scope it.

Here's the thing that a lot of people don't understand about gains. If your amp will do 5000 watts @ 1 ohm, wiring at 1 ohm does NOT mean you're going to get that 5000. After voltage drop, box rise, etc you are not going to see that power. Now you can get MORE than 5000 watts @ 1 ohm, but the power will be dirty and it will be a clipped signal. You can also get LESS than 5000 watts @ 1 ohm. This is the reason why you have things like the volume knob, the sub level on the deck, and the gain knob on your amp. Here's my opinion. Wire the amp @ 1 ohm. Then, if you're set on using a DMM to set the gains, set it at something lower like 2000 or 3000. Truth be told, even if you set your amp with a DMM to put out 3000 watts, you won't be seeing that much power because you aren't accounting for box rise. I'll use my car as an example. I have an SAZ-4500 wired @ 1 ohm. If I were to use a DMM to set my gains, I would set my amp to put out 67 volts to see 4500 watts @ 1 ohm. After box rise, I'm @ 3.67 ohms clamping 2600 watts at roughly 98 volts and 26.7 amps. If I would have tried to set my gains with a DMM to 67 volts, I would only be seeing 1200 watts out of my amp because after rise I'm actually at 3.67 ohms not 1 ohm.

Might be better to just buy N2's and sell yours locally. That way you don't have to strip these down and recone them.

Uh oh art. Guna run 4 in the Tahoe?